Not Just for Purebreds: Showing Off with Your Mixed Breed

 In This Chapter

• Competing in performance trials
• Making your dog a star

Your dog doesn’t have to be pedigreed to compete in shows or participate in fun activities. In this chapter, I introduce you to the world of obedience shows, agility trials, and Rally-O. I also let you know how you can get your mixed breed into commercials, TV, and movies. If you and your dog are looking to take “play” to the next level, this is the chapter for you!

Participating in a Mixed-Breed Dog Club

Just because your dog didn’t come to you with a pedigree doesn’t mean you can’t participate in any number of performance exhibitions. Your dog’s performance has nothing to do with her appearance and everything to do with the work you put into her.

Tip

Two of the largest clubs offering many show opportunities are the Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America (www.mbdca.org) and the United Kennel Club (www.ukcdogs.com). The UKC is actually a club for purebred dogs, including rare breeds, but it allows mixed-breed dogs to compete in their performance activities. The clubs will inform you of trial dates, but you need to work with a professional dog trainer or local dog training club to learn how to teach your dog to perform in obedience trials.

Competing in obedience matches and dog shows

You and your dog can compete in obedience matches and/or trials at dog shows. The difference between a match and a trial is that the match is a practice run — a place where you can test your and your dog’s skills prior to entering a trial and working toward an obedience certificate. In a match, you can repeat an exercise or guide your dog into performing correctly, and the judge will give you advice on how to get your dog to achieve a better performance. In a trial, you cannot do these things. You and your dog will be judged — period.

Tip

I recommend achieving good scores in a match before attempting to perform at a trial. That way you can iron out the kinks and keep the entire experience positive for your dog, because there’s no need to stress over getting something wrong at the match.

There are three main levels in the obedience ring. Each level has its own series of behaviors for your dog to perform. Here’s a list of the classes, from easiest to hardest:

- Novice: In the Novice class, you and your dog will try to complete the following behaviors:

• Heeling on and off-leash
• Figure-8, on leash, around two people standing 8 feet apart
• Stand and Stay with the judge touching the dog as you remain 6 feet in front of the dog, with the dog off-leash
• Stay from 30 feet away
• Recall from 30 feet away
• Finish after the Recall
• One-minute Sit/Stay side by side with up to 12 other dogs and handlers 30 feet away
• Three-minute down/stay side by side with up to 12 others dogs and handlers 30 feet away

- Open: In the Open class, you and your dog will try to complete the following behaviors:

• Off-leash heeling pattern
• Off-leash figure-8 around two people standing 8 feet apart
• Drop on Recall
• Retrieve on the flat
• Retrieve over a high jump (11⁄2 times the height of your dog at the shoulders)
• Send over a broad jump (2 times the height of your dog at the shoulders)
• Three-minute sit/stay side by side with other dogs and the handler out of sight
• Five-minute down/stay side by side with other dogs and the handler out of sight

- Utility: In the Utility class, you and your dog will try to complete the following behaviors:

• Off-leash heeling pattern using only visual cues, no voice at all
• Stop and stand, using visual cues and move over 20 feet away, faced away from dog
• Call dog to heel position while standing still
• Directed Retrieve: Retrieving a specific item (usually white gloves) out of three identical items
• Scent discrimination: Retrieving both a leather and metal article, bearing your scent, from other identical articles
• Directed Go Out: Leaving your side, running to the opposite end of the ring, and turning and sitting until you direct the next exercise
• Directed Jump: As the dog remains across the ring, you direct the dog to one of two jumps — a bar jump or high jump — repeat the Go Out again, and direct the dog to the other jump (at the judges’ prompt)

Also, in a match there are non-regular classes that are both fun and a stepping-stone between different levels:

- Sub-Novice: This is a starter class in which you can keep your leash on your dog so that if the dog becomes distracted while performing, she won’t be able to run off.

- Graduate Novice: This is a tweener class between Novice and Open. It has exercises from both classes, preparing you for the challenges you’d see in Open, while still allowing you to work on perfecting some of the exercises done in the Novice class.

I’ve had lots of success with these non-regular classes — they gave me and my dog the confidence to continue to the next level.

Technical Stuff

There are three main obedience titles to strive for. To earn these titles you must qualify with a score of 170 out of a possible 200 at three different shows with three different judges. The titles are: Novice class–Companion Dog (CD); Open class–Companion Dog Excellent (CDX), and Utility Dog (UD). You can also work toward championships (Obedience Trail Champion [OTCH]), high in trials, and other awards though you can count on it taking years to reach these goals. Of course, that’s years of fun (and hard work) for you and your dog!

Competing in agility

Agility is quickly becoming the most popular canine event in the United States and in some areas around the world. Dogs love performing, and people love to watch them. Any dog of any size or breed can compete, and some clubs allow mixed-breed dogs to compete.

Agility was modeled on equestrian stadium jumping, with a variety of obstacles that have both spectator appeal and the intention of displaying the dog’s agile nature. In this sport, the dog must negotiate a number of obstacles, off leash, within an allotted time frame.

The courses consist of jumps, tunnels, a pause table, weave poles, an A-frame, a seesaw, a dog walk, and more — each challenging the dog in different ways. You must be adept at directing the dog from obstacle to obstacle without getting in the dog’s path.

Agility is a timed speed event, but the dog must also perform with precision. She has to touch the contact obstacle (A-frame, seesaw, or dog walk) at specific points both getting on and off, not knock down the poles while jumping or weaving, and execute the obstacles in the right order.

You can find out more about agility competitions by contacting the following organizations:

- United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA), phone: 972-487-2200, Web: www.usdaa.com

- Agility Association of Canada (AAC), phone: 519-657-7636, Web: www.aac.ca

- North American Dog Agility Council (NADAC), phone: 208-689-3803, Web: www.nadac.com

- Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA), phone: 409-778-1082, Web: www.asca.org

- American Kennel Club (AKC), phone: 919-233-9767, e-mail: info@akc.org

- United Kennel Club (UKC), phone: 616-343-9020, Web: www.ukcdogs.com

- Canine Performance Events (CPE), Web: www.k9cpe.com

Competing in Rally-O

Rally-O (short for Rally Obedience) was derived from obedience trials, but it offers a more enjoyable means of competing with your dog because you’re allowed to use praise as a means of reinforcement while you guide your dog through the stations throughout the course. It’s gaining in popularity by leaps and bounds!

As in agility, Rally-O is a timed event. It includes 12 to 20 stations where you and your dog must perform different skills. There are three levels to achieve in Rally-O:

- Novice: This level is on-leash with exercises that demonstrate the dog’s understanding of basic commands: Sit, Stay, Down, Come, and Heel.

- Advanced: This level is made up of a set of exercises where the dog performs off-leash and includes at least one jump.

- Excellent: This level is a difficult off-leash course that includes at least one jump and demonstrates more precise skill coordination than in the Advanced level.

The course is different at each show, with the layout posted at the ringside and handed out so you can learn the progression of the exercises. Often, you can also walk the courses prior to the start of class, because knowing where to turn and when to turn makes a big difference in your overall performance.

Signs are posted for each station, which give instructions that you and your dog must execute within 2 to 4 feet of the sign. After the judge tells you and your dog to go forward, you complete the course on your own without additional commands from the judge. Although you can use voice guidance and your hands to give signals to your dog, you can’t use food or toys in the ring, and you can’t place your hands on your dog or physically touch her.

This sport is great for dogs who are bored by the stop-and-go routines in the obedience ring. Many dog clubs now offer Rally-O at their obedience trials, giving you more competitions to participate in at a show.

Tip

You can find a complete description of Rally-O on the AKC Web site (www.akc.org) and at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) Web site (www.apdt.com) at www.akc.org/pdfs/rulebooks/RO2999.pdf. You can find station signs for all three levels at www.akc.org/pdfs/rulebooks/ROR999.pdf.

Media Hound: Getting Your Dog on Camera

I’ve been providing animals for film and TV production work since 1983. It’s one of the most enjoyable activities that I do with animals. Every production is a new challenge and preparing the animals is loads of fun! The dog’s human guardians love the fact that their dogs will be seen on television, in print, or in the movies. Some of these dogs become quite popular and are used repeatedly for many different types of work. I had one client tell me, “It’s like he was a kid who spent the day in a candy shop. He came home happy, tired, and full [of treats].”

Mixed-breed dogs are great for production work because each dog is unique in appearance. Though the more unique dogs aren’t often chosen for large parts in feature films (because it sometimes takes more than one dog to do the part, so they need dogs who look exactly alike), mixed-breed dogs are popular for advertisements, TV shows, and TV commercials.

If you’re thinking of allowing your mixed breed to work in the production world, your first step is to find an animal actors’ agent. There are specific traits that agents look for, and you’ll want to see if your dog has that special something that catches an agent’s eye. You’ll also need to know how to prepare your dog for the work and what to expect while she performs in front of the camera.

Remember

Even if an agent doesn’t think your dog is special, you know she is, and that’s all your dog cares about.

Knowing what animal agents look for

Agents are looking, first and foremost, for well-trained dogs. Any dog who can earn an obedience or agility title is always welcomed by an animal actors’ agent. Your dog should be able to perform off-leash with all kinds of distractions going on around her — because a production can be a very distracting situation. A dog who can perform specific tricks on command (such as speak, hold something in her mouth, fetch, or wave), as well as a dog who doesn’t mind wearing clothing, is ideal.

Agents also look for dogs who are photogenic — and cute and photogenic aren’t necessarily the same thing. For example, few black dogs are chosen for production work because the camera can’t see their facial expressions. Often, black-and-white, brown-and-white, tan, merle, or other color combinations are what the producers are looking for. Productions vary a lot, so dogs of all sizes are used at one time or another.

Another item of extreme importance to an animal actors’ agent is the dog’s overall appearance. A dog with a dry, flaky coat, dull eyes, or low or high weight cannot perform well, so she won’t be chosen. Owners of canine actors have to keep their dogs in the peak of health and training at all times, because a healthy dog can better tolerate the long performance and on-set hours. A health dog shines inside and out.

Tip

If you want your dog to be an actor, you must allow the dog to be available at all times. Rarely will you be allowed on the set, unless you’re a professional trainer. This means that you must trust the trainers who will work with your dog on-set — if you won’t trust your dog in someone else’s hands, you won’t be happy with production work.

Preparing for work

Other than practicing your dog’s obedience and special tricks, the only way of knowing how to prepare for a job is to talk with your dog’s agent regarding the availability of layouts. A storyboard is a roughly drawn picture that helps the director and actors know where to stand and where the cameras will be. It gives the trainer an idea of the specific action required of the dog and from which direction the camera will be angled.

If you aren’t a professional trainer, the agent will hire one to work with your dog. The trainer will either pick up your dog at your home, or make arrangements with you to bring her to the set. You’ll be told whether you can remain with her at that time. During any given production day, the dog is spending more time relaxing than working. She’ll be getting lots of food rewards while working, so she often isn’t fed much for her normal meals.

If the dog is expected to retrieve something specific, you can practice this reaction ahead of time. If the dog is required to wear specific types of clothing, such as a hat and sunglasses, you can practice this as well. As is often the case, however, the animal actors’ agent is told that certain behaviors will be required, but when the dog and trainer arrive on-set, the director has either changed his mind or embellished on the original action. This means that the dog must be well trained and easy to teach on the spot.

Warning!

Sometimes, much to the dismay of the animal actors’ agent and trainer, the director requests the dog to “be a dog.” To a trainer, this is a nightmare directive. Many people don’t understand that they won’t get a specific action from a dog unless the dog is cued to perform it. In these situations, there’s not much you can do to prepare other than working on basic behaviors and tricks, hoping that whatever will be expected is something your dog already understands.

What to expect when your dog performs in front of the camera

In order for a dog to give her best performance, the trainer must use positive reinforcement. This will make the entire experience enjoyable for your dog. After every couple of commands, your dog will be rewarded both verbally and with a treat or toy. What dog wouldn’t love that?

Tip

A production is always a hurry-up-and-wait scenario. The dog is requested to arrive at a call time, often hours prior to the time she goes in front of the camera. So the dog gets to wait and wait and wait. During that time, she needs to remain quiet so that she has the energy to perform.

When she begins her performance, your dog will be in front of the camera for anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes. As a new scene is set up, she’ll wait another hour or two for a possible second scene where she’ll be in front of the camera for another 20 to 30 minutes. In all, there’s more waiting than working.

by Miriam Fields-Babineau

The Special Needs of Senior Dogs

 In This Chapter

• Knowing when your dog becomes a senior
• Caring for your senior dog
• Recognizing age-related health issues
• Knowing when to say goodbye

Getting old is never easy, but you can make the transition a smoother one for your mixed-breed dog. In this chapter, I help you identify when your dog is really a senior, fill you in on his special health needs, and give him the kind of care he deserves. I also cover the most difficult decision of all: knowing when to let your best friend go.

Remember

Owning a dog is full of fun and excitement, and though the aging process can be sad, if you approach it with the right attitude, it can be a time for you to connect with your dog on an even deeper level than you already have.

How Old Is Old: Knowing When Your Dog Has Earned Senior Status

How will you know when your dog becomes a senior? He’s not going to suddenly need a cane to walk with. And you won’t need to puree his food one day when he was chewing on bones the day before. In fact, you may not see any outward signs at all. He may appear the same as he always has, at least for a while.

But over time, you’ll see a huge difference in your dog’s behavior, movement, physical appearance, and overall health. Age deteriorates the bones and muscle tissue; reduces the efficacy of internal organs; and dulls the senses. If your dog had any serious injuries when he was younger, the scar tissue surrounding those injuries will become inflamed. If he has a degenerative disease, such as hip dysplasia or spondylosis, it will take a firmer hold.

Tip

Here are some general guidelines on the aging process in dogs based on their size:

- Small dogs (up to 20 pounds): Many small dogs live upwards of 15 years, some as long as 18 to 20 years (though these often have some Poodle heritage — Poodles generally have a long lifespan). Small dogs can be considered seniors by the age of 11. In human years that’s about 60 years old; for each year beyond this, they age by 4 human years. So by the age of 12 they’re 64, by the age of 13 they’re 68, and so on.

Though your small dog may be a senior by 11 years, he may not really show this until a little later. Small dogs aren’t as prone to joint problems as bigger dogs are, but they do experience organ malfunction more prominently than their large cousins. Doing baseline testing (see Chapter Finding and Working with a Vet) will be extremely important to ensure you catch any health problems early.

- Medium dogs (21 to 50 pounds): Medium dogs tend to live anywhere from 13 to 15 years. They become seniors by the age of 9. In human years, this is equal to approximately 58 years old. If your medium-sized mixed breed lives to the age of 16, he’s equal in human years to an 83-year-old person, so you can be sure he’ll have slowed down and gotten cranky about his aches and pains.

- Large dogs (51 to 90 pounds): Large dogs tend to live about 10 to 12 years. They reach senior status by 8 years of age. At this time, they’re equal to a human who is 61 years old. The arthritis sets in, it’s tougher to move around, and the eyes and hearing get weak. Between the pain of achy bones and lack of seeing or hearing, they don’t respond as quickly as before. Your dog isn’t coming when called because of being stubborn — he didn’t hear you. By the time a large dog is 11 years old, if he reaches this age, he’s having extreme difficulty moving and responding to you. This old dog prefers to sleep and eat, and that’s about it.

- Extra-large dogs (over 90 pounds): Extra-large dogs generally live about 9 to 10 years. Extra large dogs are considered seniors by the age of 8. Dogs of this size age 7 to 10 years for each of our human years.

The Early-Bird Special: Feeding Your Senior Dog

As your mixed breed ages, his body changes. You shouldn’t feed him the same food in the same manner as when he was a pup. His metabolism has slowed down with his reduced exercise, and he won’t need as much food, or the same type of food (with both high calorie and fat content) as he used to.

Most dog-food brands offer a senior formula. When you’re deciding which one to buy, look for the following ingredients on the label:

- Vitamins C and E: As your senior dog’s immune system becomes less efficient with age, he’ll need a diet that contains a large amount of antioxidants such as vitamins C and E. This will help his immune system operate more efficiently, thereby reducing his risk of digestive-system problems and the drying of his skin and coat.

- Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA): Older dogs also need a diet that contains gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is an omega-6 fatty acid. This acid is normally produced in your mixed breed’s liver by the enzyme action on dietary fat. However, in older dogs, these GLA levels are diminished. If your dog’s favorite senior food doesn’t have GLA in it, you can add borage oil, a natural source of this acid, to your dog’s diet. You can find borage oil at most vitamin outlets. One tablet is usually sufficient.

- Fructoligosaccharides (FOS): Older dogs have more frequent intestinal problems than younger dogs do, so your dog will need to have a diet containing fructoligosaccharides (FOS). This is a unique fiber source that aids in maintaining a healthy bacterial population in his intestines. Beet pulp is a good source of FOS and provides energy for the cells that line his intestine, which helps with proper stool formation. It’s often already added to most commercial senior dog diets.

Remember

Don’t feed your senior dog a food with more than three grains — they’re tough to digest (see Chapter Chasing the Chuckwagon: The Basics of Feeding).

You probably won’t need to change your mixed breed’s feeding schedule or how he eats, though it’s always a good idea to elevate his food bowl at least a little to help the food go down smoother. This is especially helpful for senior dogs who have trachea problems, such as a collapsed trachea, making swallowing difficult. (You can find special elevated feeders at any major pet store or online pet store.)

As your dog becomes older, make sure you feed him in a quiet environment where other family pets won’t disturb him. Many older dogs eat slowly and will feel challenged by the other animals.

Your dog will let you know if you’re feeding him too often: He simply won’t eat the meal. Don’t fall into the “always hungry” trap though, or your senior dog will quickly become overweight, which in turn will stress his heart and skeletal system, shortening his life.

Use It or Lose It: Exercising Your Senior Dog

Senior dogs need exercise. Keeping him in shape will help him deal with his physical and emotional changes. Exercise maintains muscle tone, in turn supporting his weakening joints. It also helps his digestive system and circulatory system.

Don’t keep your dog locked up just because he’s limping from arthritic joints. This will quickly increase the deterioration. Exercise promotes healthy bone growth and keeps your mixed breed happy. A dog who isn’t exercised quickly declines.

Social time with other dogs

Your old mixed breed may not be able to keep up with the younger pups, but he’ll have fun trying. And it’s not just a matter of having fun. It’s a type of exercise you can’t offer — unless you’re willing to lie down on the ground, gnaw on his ear, roll, jump, and chase him. (I didn’t think so!) But these are all things dogs do when they play.

If your older dog has health issues, such as arthritis or breathing problems, be cautious with his choice of playmates. Let him play with a dog who isn’t super-energetic or dominant.

Not only is playing with other dogs good for your old friend, it’s also good for the younger dogs, because your old dog teaches them important social skills. Your old dog has been around the block a few more times than they have, and he has all kinds of wisdom to pass on to those youngsters.

Walks with you

Your old dog may have a great time playing with other dogs, but he’d really prefer to spend time with you. Both of you will benefit from walks together. It’s a healthy, low-impact means of exercise, and you can hardly have more enjoyable company.

If your older dog can’t rough-house and race around with other dogs, walking will be his only way of moving around and keeping his muscles toned. You can regulate his exercise regimen — his speed, distance, and terrain.

Tip

If your mixed-breed dog is arthritic or suffering from an old injury, walk him on a soft surface (like dirt), not a hard road or sidewalk. This will cushion each foot fall, making each step less jarring.

Identifying Health Problems Common to Seniors

There’s no helping it. All our bodies wear down as we age, and your dog is no different. You can slow down the degeneration with proper diet and exercise, but ultimately it’s unavoidable. That said, deterioration is different in each dog. Larger dogs tend to develop arthritic joints before losing their eyesight or hearing, whereas smaller dogs are just the opposite.

In the following sections, I walk you through the most common age-related problems that dogs face.

Hearing loss

It doesn’t matter which breed mixture your dog is when it comes to hearing loss — deafness is seen in all breeds.

Technical Stuff

Hearing loss happens either because of damage to the inner-ear components from an ear infection, from trauma to the head and nerves, or through the use of various drugs such as the antibiotics Gentamicin, Neomycin, and Kanamycin. Over time, the ear components can also degenerate, causing a gradual deafness.

Your vet can perform tests to discover the extent of your dog’s hearing loss, but there are ways you can detect the loss of hearing in your mixed breed on your own. A couple of the main symptoms are difficulty arousing from sleep and awakening with aggression. His verbalizations will be higher pitched. And he’ll also have difficulty figuring out where sound is coming from.

Tip

Most dogs adjust to this loss of hearing quite well, and there are ways you can also adjust to it, too. You can begin by using more visual cues or lights to get your dogs’ attention — laser lights are great for this.

Blindness

All dogs have decreased vision as they age (and you probably do, too!) — it can’t be avoided.

Technical Stuff

Loss of sight is normally due to changes in pupil size and the loss of focusing correctly. Due to the aging process other disorders and diseases occur because of the downward shift of eyelid tissues and atrophy of the orbital fat.

Tip

Your dog’s vision may be reduced as he ages, but he’ll easily adjust to this, and it most likely won’t affect his overall quality of life. You can help by not changing the furniture around, and not leaving objects on the floors that he can’t easily detect.

Arthritis

There’s no avoiding arthritis. (Are you sensing a pattern here?) If it doesn’t occur from an old injury, it most certainly sets in with age.

Technical Stuff

Arthritis is a disease in which the cartilage in the joints deteriorates. Without the cartilage, the bones of the joints rub together, causing painful movement.

The symptoms of arthritis are obvious: difficulty walking; limping; a stiff, slow, ungainly gait. Sometimes you can hear a dog’s joints creaking and crackling. You may even hear your dog’s nails scraping against the floor as he walks.

Tip

There are many ways you can help your arthritic dog. Exercise helps maintain mobility and flexibility. You don’t want to push your dog too much, but one or two very short walks a day (maybe around the block) will keep him moving. (You’re better off breaking his walks into multiple sessions instead of taking one long walk.) Another way to ease the pain of arthritis is to make sure you don’t let your dog become overweight. The heavier he is, the more stress is put on his joints. Also, numerous supplements are available that contain glucosamine and chondroitin — these nutrients lubricate the joints causing less friction between the bones. You can find them in chewable tables that your dog will eat up like treats.

Digestive disorders

Many old dogs get some sort of inflammatory disease of the gastrointestinal tract — a chronic irritation in his bowels, stomach, and/or intestines. When your dog has this disease, he’ll vomit and/or have diarrhea. Left untreated, he’ll lose weight and not be able to eat normally.

The symptoms can be caused by food allergies or stress. Sometimes emotional trauma can bring on the symptoms of intestinal disorders.

A diet change is often the first step. Your vet may suggest corticosteroids and other drugs if diet control isn’t enough. Talk to your vet to see what she recommends.

Cancer

Cancer is a very common ailment in dogs — and it’s often fatal. Because older dogs tend to be weakened with age, knowing whether to put your dog through the difficult and expensive treatments necessary to control the disease is tough.

Cancer of the organs is normally fatal. Skin cancer, however, can often be treated with removal of the tumor and chemotherapy or radiation applied to the affected area to kill any remaining cancerous cells. Dogs tend to become ill when given the first chemotherapy treatment, but they tend to tolerate subsequent treatments fairly well.

You may want to investigate some alternative therapies. Nutritional and herbal components are currently being tested in dogs, and some are looking very promising. Talk with your vet about all your options, and don’t hesitate to seek a second opinion if you feel it’s necessary.

Dementia

If your dog has Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS, or dementia), he might exhibit the following behaviors:

- Disorientation: Your dog might be confused, wander aimlessly, go to the wrong side of doors, or get stuck in corners or behind furniture.

- Change in sleep patterns: Your dog will sleep more during the day and less at night. He may tend to wander aimlessly throughout the night.

- Housetraining regression: Your dog may go outside, forget why, and then comes inside only to relieve himself on your floor.

- Avoiding family interaction: He may walk away from you instead of wanting attention. He won’t want to play as he used to.

Other symptoms include obsessive/compulsive disorders, separation anxiety, fear biting, environmental phobias (such as fear of thunder or other loud noises), and overall aggression. The aggression can be a variety of types, from fear biting to your dog being more territorial or possessive.

A medication called L-Selegeline can be prescribed by your vet that will help with the early symptoms of CDS. Most dogs show some improvement within the first couple weeks, but there are some, such as those in whom the CDS is quite advanced, who won’t show any improvement at all. The medication has few side effects, but some dogs have mild gastrointestinal upset when they’re on the drug. Those dogs who improve with Anipryl must remain on it the rest of their lives, or until the CDS progresses to the point where the drug is no longer effective.

If you think your dog may have CDS, talk to your vet. She’ll be able to diagnose the condition and tell you about your treatment options.

Depression

Dogs are emotional and form lifelong attachments. So when they lose someone they dearly loved — whether a human companion or another animal — they can develop depression, just as humans can. Depression can also be brought on because of a change of scenery (maybe you moved to a new home) or because of weather changes or health changes.

Regardless of the cause, the symptoms include

• Excessive barking
• Lethargy
• Anxiety or nervousness
• Obsessive behavior such as excessive grooming, self-mutilation, or destructiveness
• Weight loss or gain
• Sulking
• Aggression
• Increased clinginess

When you recognize these behaviors as depression, there are steps you can take to help your dog. Your vet can prescribe antidepressant medication. You can also improve the quality of your dog’s life by increasing his activities and social life. Keep him busy!

Warning!

Left too long, depression can turn into a life-threatening physical condition.

Recognizing Behavior Problems That Sometimes Come with Age

Along with the physical changes that come with age, your mixed breed will also experience behavior and emotional changes. In fact, you’re likely to see the behavior changes before the physical ones, because most dogs won’t exhibit signs of physical weakness or injury — doing so decreases their standing within a dog pack.

Physical problems can actually cause behavioral problems. The onset of arthritis, for example, creates chronic pain, which in turn makes your dog increasingly grouchy. If cancer is growing, your dog may appear distracted, may not listen well, or may have the tendency to strike out aggressively without reason.

Overall, your older dog will be less likely to respond to obedience commands. If he’s in pain, it hurts to move. If he can’t hear you call him to come, he won’t. If he doesn’t see your visual cues to sit, he can’t. If he doesn’t remember what your cues mean, he doesn’t know how to respond to them.

Dogs who once allowed young children to crawl all over them may suddenly lash out or go hide when they get older. Some dogs who once loved playing with other dogs no longer want to do so. Then there’s the personal space issue — as dogs age, this becomes more prominent. Their personal-space needs increase, because they don’t want to be stepped on or jostled by a person or another dog.

There are reasons behind all this impatience and aggression. The most common is pain from arthritis. Another reason is that your old dog doesn’t see or hear well enough to be forewarned of another presence. And, sadly, as dogs age, some develop dementia; the neurons in their brain aren’t firing as efficiently as they once did. All these can cause your dog to be impatient.

Pain causes bad moods. If someone were to touch a very painful place on your body, you might yell at him. A dog may bark, snap, or even outright attack. All your dog knows is that someone who touched him caused the more intense pain.

If your dog is experiencing dementia, and doesn’t understand his world anymore, he’ll tend to be more touchy and aggressive. He won’t remember his people or other animal pack members — they’ll be strangers to him. If they get in his personal space, watch out!

Remember

If your dog is in pain or is suffering from Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS, or dementia — see the “Dementia” section, earlier in this chapter), keep other animals and small children away from him.

Tip

Your vet can tell if your dog is suffering from dementia, and he’ll also be able to gauge how much pain your dog is in from arthritis or other health problems.

If your dog can’t hear or see something coming, how can he prepared when it comes? Dogs rely heavily on their senses to understand their world. If they can’t sense someone coming from behind them, or are awakened suddenly, their first instinct is to lash out. This can be especially dangerous in a home with youngsters, because they don’t understand why their dog has suddenly become less loving.

Tip

If your dog is losing his eyesight or hearing, you’ll need to change how others interact with him. There are ways you and your kids can inform your dog of your approach. For example, if your dog is losing his hearing, clap your hands or stomp loudly on the floor before you get close to him. Your dog still feels vibrations fairly well, and this will alert him. If he can’t see well, try flashing the lights on and off to grab his attention.

Saying Goodbye

As dogs age, they become debilitated by illness. You love your dog and you hate to watch him suffer. Though most dogs try to hide pain, you need to know what to look for beyond the obvious. Here are some behaviors that might give you an indication of your dog’s level of discomfort:

• Limping
• Obsessive scratching
• Licking an area
• Unusual mouth movements or excessive panting
• Frequently turning his head to look at his painful area
• Roaming in circles, pacing, or erratic movements
• Reluctance to get up or lie down, climb stairs, or get into the car
• Trembling or tension
• Being quieter or more clingy than usual
• Retreating or withdrawing from his family and animal companions
• Lack of appetite

If you’ve done all you can to try to alleviate his pain but he still displays the symptoms of extreme discomfort, you need to figure out whether now is the time to let your dog go. How do you make that decision? Ask yourself some important questions.

- Why is he still here? For your benefit? Will you be lonely without him? If that’s the only reason you’re keeping your dog alive, you’re putting your own needs ahead of your dog’s.

- What is his quality of life? Is the expensive veterinary treatment you’re putting him through merely adding days or weeks to his life? Or is it adding years — and if so, what kind of years? Happy, pain-free ones, or ones of misery? If you’re only adding a couple days or weeks, think about the quality of life he’s leading. Is he comfortable? Is he happy? Is he wanting to go outside and play, or hiding in a corner?

Overall, you need to consider whether your dog’s bad days outweigh his good ones. Try to be objective in your assessment and be fair to your dog.

Although your vet can tell you there’s not much more you can do to help your dog, only you can make the final decision. Your mixed breed has been your loving companion for many years. You’ve cared for him, shared wonderful moments together, and enjoyed each others’ company. You don’t want him to suffer — you’ll be suffering alongside him, and he won’t understand your sadness and grief, which will only make him even more depressed.

I’ve had to make this impossible decision more times than I can count. It never hurts less, and I’ll never forget the dogs I’ve helped travel to the Rainbow Bridge. I still see them in my mind; in the rearview mirror of my vehicle, smiling at me as they look forward to adventure; the times we shared hiking, camping, and working. Every one of them is still special to me and will forever live within my soul.

Remember

You know and love your dog — and you’ll know when the time is right to say goodbye.

Whether you’re thinking about putting your dog to sleep, or you’ve recently done it, talking with friends and family helps. They can be a huge support, helping you weigh your options and cope with your grief. Your family and friends understand the loss of your dog better than anyone else. They’ve seen the relationship you shared. They’ll understand your stories and sit there holding you as you cry.

Tip

In addition to your friends and family, there are books you can turn to, Web sites to go to. Here are just a few:

- Pet Loss and Children: Establishing a Healthy Foundation, by Cheri Barton: If you have children, this book will guide you in helping them, and yourself, through the loss of your beloved dog. I like how it involves the children in the recovery process through artistic expression and teaches how to recognize when to say goodbye.

- Saying Good-Bye to the Pet You Love: A Complete Resource to Help You Heal, by Lorri A. Greene and Jacquelyn Landis: This book helps you overcome grief by writing out your memories. It also mentions how taking a moment to remember your pet through a special memorial is helpful. This book also helps you recognize when the time is right to say goodbye.

- Pet Loss: How to Prepare, Say Goodbye, Honor Your Pet’s Life, by Lisa Shover: This book covers everything you need to recognize when it’s time to say goodbye, how to go about the process, how to help others as they grieve and how to create a memorial for your dog.

- PetLoss.com (www.petloss.com): This is a great Web site for counseling, support, and information regarding pet loss. This group also has a regular Monday-night candle vigil paying tribute and memorializing our lost loved ones.

- The Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement (www.aplb.org): This Web site is a great resource for anyone who needs help in preparing for the loss of a pet or who needs support in the grieving process. There are chat rooms and actual counselors available to speak to. Sometimes all you need is an ear to listen to your stories.

If you’re really having trouble coping with the loss of your pet, seek the help of a professional grief counselor. You can talk to your family physician to get a referral of someone in your area.

Remember

Don’t feel guilty about your decision to put your dog to sleep. You kept him from pain and suffering, and that’s the most responsible thing a pet owner can do.

by Miriam Fields-Babineau

First Aid: Dealing with Emergencies

 In This Chapter

• Being prepared for any emergency
• Knowing who to call for help
• Getting your lost dog back

You could have your dog from puppyhood to old age and never encounter an emergency situation — or you could face numerous emergencies throughout your dog’s life. You don’t knowif or when emergency will strike, but being prepared for any disaster puts you ahead of the game. In this chapter, I help you recognize emergency situations, tell you the basics of canine first aid, and help you find your dog if you ever lose her. Read this chapter while your dog is safe and sound, and tuck the information away for when you need it. It could save your dog’s life.

Gathering Emergency Contact Information

There are several numbers you should always have handy in case of emergencies. Make several photocopies of this page and fill inTable 14-1 with all the appropriate numbers. Then keep one copy on your refrigerator, another in each of your cars, another in your canine first-aid kit . . . you get the idea. Just make sure the numbers  are easily accessible no matter where you are.

Tip

I’ve left several blank rows at the bottom of the table, where you can add the names and numbers of family members or friends who can help you out in case of emergency. (It’s amazing how, in an emergency, you can forget phone numbers that you otherwise have memorized.)

Table 14-1	Emergency Contact Information
Who to Call	Phone Number
Veterinarian
Emergency animal hospital
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center	888-426-4435 *
Kennel
Animal control
Animal shelter

* A fee of $55 (as of this printing) will be charged to your credit card to cover the cost of aconsultation. The center is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

Preparing for natural disasters No matter where you live, natural disasters can strike. Being prepared is essential.Here are some tips to keep in mind: - Don’t rely on anyone other than yourself to evacuate your pet. City officials and workers will not take on this responsibility. - Don’t leave your dog tied up outside. If your dog is tied, she can’t escape water,flying debris, wind, and other things that threaten her life. - Don’t leave your dog indoors. If there’s a tidal surge and your house is underwater, your dog can drown. - If you’re evacuating in advance of a hurricane and you plan on leaving your dog at a kennel, don’t do so anywhere within the hurricane strike zone. As part of your preparation, get contact information for kennels in other states. - Prepare a secure, unbreakable covered pet carrier, marked with your name, address, and phone number. Include two leashes and a harness/collar with your name, address, and phone number on a tag. Bring plastic bowls for food and water; in waterproof plastic containers, put enough food for two weeks. Bring a copy of your pet’s health records, her medication, a current photo, plastic bags for waste, and a couple toys to keep her occupied.

Assembling Your Canine First-Aid Kit

Following are all the items you need in a basic, in-home first-aid kit. Though you may not need all the items listed here at any one time  in your mixed breed’s life, it’s a good idea to at least own them and know where you keep them.

• First-aid book
• Adhesive tape or self-sticking Vet Wrap (as of this printing, you can actually buy Vet Wrap online at Amazon.com)
• Cotton balls
• Square gauze pads, 3 x 3 inches
• Instant hot/cold packs
• Cotton-tipped applicators (like Q-tips)
• Antibacterial ointment (like Neosporin or Bacitracin)
• Bitter Apple cream and/or spray
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Clotisol (clotting cream)
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Activated charcoal (in case of poisoning)
• Tweezers and small, sharp scissors
• Thermometer (Note: A dog’s normal temperature is 101°F. You can buy ear thermometers for pets at most major pet supply stores.)
• Aloe-vera gel (to sooth scrapes and cuts)
• Canine antidiarrhea medication (such as Metronidazole, an antibiotic available from your veterinarian) (Note: Human over-the-counter antidiarrhea medications often don’t work at all with dogs.)
• Rubber gloves
• Muzzle (Note: Many injured dogs bite first and ask questions later.)
• Something you can use for a stretcher, such as a board, blanket, or floor mat

If you’re hiking, camping, boating, or engaging in some other outdoor activities with your dog, place the following items in a zip-top plastic bag and toss it in your backpack:

• Fresh water, at least 1 pint
• Antiseptic wipes
• Sterile gauze pads
• Antibacterial ointment
• Vet Wrap
• Bite/sting stop
• Tweezers

If you’re interested, you can take courses in first aid and canine CPR. One exceptional source for these is Pet Tech (www.pettech.net), which offers information, pet-saver training, DVDs, and pet first aid instructors’ courses. Books such as First Aid for Dogs: What to Do When Emergencies Happen, by Bruce Fogle, and The First Aid Companion for Dogs & Cats, by Amy D. Shojai, are also good sources.

First-Aid Basics

Dogs tend to be inquisitive, which can often get them into trouble. No matter where you live, your dog could have an accident, get sick, or get hurt. Few dogs go through life without some physical trauma. In the following sections, I cover the majority of situations, how to recognize them, and what to do if they happen to your dog.

Allergies

Allergies manifest themselves in many ways. The most likely allergic reactions are those to food ingredients, though I’ve known some dogs who are also allergic to specific types of grass, plants, or indoor fabrics, such as carpeting, upholstery, or window treatments.

When your mixed breed is experiencing an allergic reaction, she may begin sneezing, wheezing, choking, or gagging. She may also develop an itchy rash on her skin. Some dogs will lick and chew themselves. Ear infections can be common symptoms of allergies as well.

If you suspect that your dog has an allergy, you can either take her to a specialist and find out exactly the cause of the allergic reaction, or you can change her diet and see if you notice an improvement before consulting with a vet. If the allergies are due to your mixed breed’s environment, you may have to remove some items from her living space.

Remember

The only way of knowing for sure what your dog is allergic to is by taking her to an allergy specialist and having her tested.

Bloat

Bloat is a swelling of the stomach from gas, fluid, or both. It tends to occur in dogs with large chest cavities, like Great Danes or Weimaraners, who also like to inhale their food quickly. Dogs prone to this ailment may bloat if they eat immediately after extreme exercise.

The symptoms of bloat include pacing continuously or lying down in odd places, panting, whining, salivating, and agitation. The dog may vomit without anything coming up. She’ll drool excessively, make retching noises, and have swelling in the abdominal area.

Warning!

Bloat is potentially fatal, and there’s nothing you can do for your dog to help her other than to recognize the symptoms and get her to the vet immediately. Surgery must be performed to save her life. Bloat has a 30-percent fatality rate, mostly due to dog owners who either don’t recognize the symptoms or are too slow to react.

Broken bones or dislocations

You can never be sure whether your dog has broken or dislocated a bone without the help of your vet. The only symptoms you’ll be able to recognize are your dog being unable to use a limb or the limb appearing to be at an odd angle. If the dog has a rib, shoulder, hip, or back fracture, she may not move at all.

If bleeding is involved, try to control it (see “Puncture wounds,” later in this chapter, for tips on controlling bleeding), but don’t try to fix the fracture. Protect the area with cotton padding. If it’s a limb, apply a splint of some sort (two long pieces of wood) and secure them with bandaging such as Vet Wrap. Carefully place your dog on a makeshift stretcher — a rug, blanket, or wide board will work — so that she won’t further injure herself by moving. Take her to her vet immediately.

Warning!

Some injured animals are prone to aggression, due to stress and pain, so I recommend muzzling your dog before applying the splint. Not only will this prevent injury to you but it will prevent further injury to the dog.

Burns

You’ll know your dog is burned if you see singed fur, blistering, redness of skin, and/or swelling. Take your dog to the vet immediately. If you have someone who can drive while you flush your dog’s injury with cool water that would be ideal. If not, just go to your vet immediately.

Choking

You’ll recognize the symptoms of choking by noticing that your dog is having difficulty breathing or swallowing. She might paw at her mouth, and her lips and tongue could turn blue from lack of blood flow.

Look inside your dog’s mouth and throat. Clear it by using pliers or tweezers — if you stick your finger down her throat, you can easily lodge the object farther down her throat.

If the object is too deep and you can’t get it, perform the Heimlich maneuver by putting your hands on either side of your dog’s rib cage and applying firm, quick pressure. Another way you can perform this is to place your dog on her side and press against her rib cage with the palm of your hand. Repeat until the object is dislodged.

Tip

Get someone to take you and your dog to a vet as you are doing the Heimlich. You may not be able to totally dislodge the entire object, and the sooner you can get veterinary attention, the better chance your dog has of surviving.

Cuts

Wash the area with cool water and pat dry. Apply hydrogen peroxide to the area. If it has stopped bleeding (and after the area is dry), apply an antibacterial ointment and then spread a little Bitter Apple ointment around the edges (not in the cut) to prevent your dog from licking off the ointment.

If the wound is deep or doesn’t stop bleeding, apply a pressure bandage and take your dog to the vet immediately.

Diarrhea

If your dog has diarrhea, the best thing to do is to withhold food from your dog for 12 to 24 hours. Give her plenty of ice cubes and water — she’ll need to stay hydrated.

Some dogs get diarrhea after eating something that doesn’t agree with them, so after that initial 12 to 24 hours, keep your dog on a bland diet of boiled rice and chicken, or beef (as long as she’s not allergic to these ingredients) for a couple days and gradually transfer her back to her normal food.

If the diarrhea doesn’t cease within a day, take your dog to the vet and bring a stool sample with you for testing. If the consistency of the diarrhea is mucousy, if it’s light in color, tar black or if it contains blood, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Heat stroke

If your dog has a short nose, heavy fur, or large structure, don’t exercise her at all in hot weather conditions — her body can’t handle it. For other dogs, keep all exercise on hot days to a minimum. Stick to allowing your mixed breed to run in early mornings and late evenings during summer months to prevent any temperature-related illness.

The symptoms of heat stroke include difficulty breathing, vomiting, high temperature, and collapse. If the dog isn’t treated immediately, heat stroke can be fatal.

The best treatment is to immerse your dog in a tub of cool water. You can also gently soak her with a garden hose or wrap her in a cool, wet towel. You’ll need to lower her temperature gradually, so don’t put her in a tub of ice — this could go in the other direction and cause hypothermia or shock. If she’ll drink, give her some electrolyte-supplemented water, such as Smart Water.

Take her temperature often and stop the cooling process when her temperature reaches 103°F.

Hypothermia

Hypothermia happens when the dog becomes too cold. It’s most common in small dogs or those with a short coat and no body fat. If this describes your mixed breed, be sure to never leave her outdoors for a prolonged period of time during winter weather conditions; especially below 35°F.

The symptoms of hypothermia are similar to heat stroke (see the preceding section), only the dog will be shaking to try to stay warm, and she’s not likely to vomit. Her limbs will be stiff with cold.

Wrap her in warm blankets and rub her vigorously to maintain a healthy blood flow to all parts of her body. Place her on a heating pad, but be sure to put a towel or blanket between your dog and the pad to prevent burning.

As with all emergency situations, take your dog to the vet as soon as you can.

Insect bites

If your dog ventures outdoors at all, you can’t avoid it — she will be bitten by bugs. Numerous blood-sucking parasites may attack your dog — including fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes. Some bugs may sting her, especially if she’s chasing them. Other bugs like to fly into eyes, ears, or noses, irritating your mixed breed.

If you see swelling or redness, or if you notice your dog scratching or appearing to be in pain within an hour of the bite, be sure to investigate it further. If there’s a stinger, try to remove it using tweezers. Then apply a cold pack for a while to reduce the inflammation. A topical cortisone or anti-inflammatory ointment can be used on the bite area. Some dogs require oral antihistamines due to allergic reactions.

If symptoms persist, call your vet.

Poisoning

Dogs will eat nearly anything, so poisoning is always a possibility. It may be mild (such as eating fallen nuts) or it can be severe (from eating garden poisons or antifreeze).

The symptoms of poisoning include vomiting, convulsions (in severe cases), diarrhea, salivation, weakness, depression, or  collapse. Also in severe cases, if it isn’t caught in time, poisoning can be fatal.

Give your dog activated charcoal mixed with a small amount of canned food in the case of poisoning.

If you saw what your dog ate, write it down and try to note the amount she ingested. Call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 (a fee of $55 may be charged to your credit card) and give the operator the information. Or, if you prefer, call your vet.

Don’t induce vomiting unless your veterinarian directs you to do so. If the poisoning is topical (on her skin or coat) from substances such as oil, paint, or chemicals, wash her with a mild soap and rinse well.

Puncture wounds

Punctures commonly occur when animals fight. They also happen when dogs go after wild creatures with sharp teeth. If your dog has gotten into a fight, you may not be able to see all the puncture wounds unless they’re actively bleeding.

Apply firm direct pressure over any bleeding areas until the bleeding stops. Hold that pressure for ten minutes and don’t bandage it, because the wound needs air circulation for proper healing. Then take your dog to the vet for a thorough investigation and treatment.

Many vets will put drains in place to ensure the wounds don’t become infected and can heal properly from the inside out. The drains normally remain in place for three days, at which point they’re removed and the wounds kept clean and dry for another week. Your dog will likely be on antibiotics for a period of time.

Run-ins with wild animals

If your dog has a run-in with a wild animal, clean the wound with large amounts of water and dab it with hydrogen peroxide. Any large, open wound should be wrapped to keep it clean. If it’s a puncture or bleeding profusely, apply pressure until the bleeding stops.

Take your dog to the vet. Saliva has a high concentration of bacteria, so your dog will need to be given antibiotics to prevent infection.

If your dog has a run-in with a porcupine or foxtails, take her to the vet to have them removed. Don’t try to remove them yourself.

Seizures

Some dogs inherit seizures, others develop seizures due to poisoning or illness. The symptoms include salivation, disorientations, violent muscle twitching, an inability to control their excretions, and, sometimes, loss of consciousness.

The first thing you should do if you see these symptoms is to move your pet away from any objects that may be harmful — furniture, floor fixtures, children’s toys, and so on.

Don’t put yourself at risk during your dogs’ seizure. Dogs are apt to lash out without control while having a seizure, so don’t try to restrain her. Time the seizure so that you can tell your veterinarian how long it lasted. Most last approximately two to three minutes.

If your dog experiences multiple or prolonged seizures, take her to the vet immediately; she may have been poisoned and will need immediate treatment. On your trip to the vet, try to keep your dog quiet. Speak in a soothing tone and try to prevent her from seeing anything that might excite her (like another dog).

Shallow wounds

Do you go to see a doctor every time you cut your finger? Probably not. Unless your wound is deep, you probably just apply hydrogen peroxide and antibacterial cream, and slap a bandage on it, and go on with your life. If you’ve got these items for yourself, you have all you need to treat your dog’s minor wounds.

Tip

Always clean a cut or abrasion thoroughly to remove any dirt and debris. Allow it to dry, then apply hydrogen peroxide (to further clean the wound). When it’s dry, apply the antibacterial ointment. Some dogs will lick off the ointment — to prevent this, either apply a bandage or, if the area can’t be bandaged, apply Bitter Apple around the wound. She’ll be less likely to lick off the antibacterial cream again.

Shock

Shock can occur after a serious injury, fright, or a reaction to extreme temperatures. Shock is a means of the body protecting itself from trauma, but it can also threaten a dog’s life. The symptoms are irregular breathing, white gums, and dilated pupils.

You’ll need to keep your dog gently restrained, warm, and quiet. Also elevate her lower body.

Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately. Only your veterinarian is equipped to treat your dog for shock.

Snake bites

Snake bites are rare but extremely dangerous for your mixed-breed dog. There are many venomous species that, with one bite or spit of venom, can damage your dog’s nerves or body tissue on contact. Many types of snake bites can be fatal to dogs.

Once bitten, the skin will swell quickly. You’ll notice a skin puncture. The dog will display pain in the bitten area. All you can do is to clean the area and rush your dog to the veterinarian to be treated.

Vomiting

Dogs vomit a lot — from mother dogs regurgitating meals for puppies to older dogs who enjoy eating grass, vomiting is part of a dog’s life.

Warning!

You don’t need to be concerned about vomiting unless your dog is doing it many times throughout the day, or more often than she normally does. Also be aware of the consistency of the vomit: If it’s mucousy, there may be a serious problem. If it’s merely a meal that was eaten too quickly, it’s probably not anything you need to see a vet for. Sometimes, if the dog is ill, she’ll vomit up her meals. If she continues vomiting with nothing coming up, you can be certain there’s something to be concerned about — she could be choking.

If your dog is vomiting her meal, isolate her from other pets to prevent possible contagion. Stop feeding her for 12 to 24 hours, but make sure she gets plenty of water and ice cubes.

Take your dog to the vet to have her checked for disease or any other possibilities.

If You Lose Your Dog

Although it’s easy to go crazy when you lose your dog, you need to remain level-headed and calm to give your dog the best chance of making it back to you safe and sound.

Before your dog is lost: Getting proper identification

Modern microchipping is the best way of ensuring that, if found, your dog will be returned to you. A microchip is a small transmitter bearing your name, address, and phone number that is easily scanned by a handheld device owned by most veterinarians, humane societies, and animal shelters. The microchip is injected under your dog’s skin along her shoulders. There is very little discomfort to the dog during the insertion, and it’s a permanent form of identification, giving you peace of mind.

Another great way of permanently IDing your dog is a tattoo. A tattoo does cause some discomfort to your dog during the inking process, but it lets people know how to contact you if the dog is found, and it’s highly visible — no scanner is required as with microchips. Tattoos are often placed on an inner thigh of the dog’s hind leg. The number inked can be your driver’s license number or a specific number registered with a national registry. Either way you will be contacted. As with a microchip, the tattoo cannot be removed or fall off. Whether your dog has her collar on or not, the tattoo is with her.

Even though ID tags can either fall off or be removed, I always make sure my animals have theirs on their collars along with their rabies tags and licenses. An ID tag should list your name, the city where you live, and your phone number. You can also get a dog collar with your information stitched into the material.

What to do when your dog is lost

If your dog is lost, start by contacting your neighbors. Chances are, they’ve seen your dog and either are holding on to her for you or saw the direction she went.

If nobody near you saw your dog escape, contact your friends and family and ask for help searching for your dog. Fill them in on your dog’s canine friends she hangs out with, a pond she enjoys swimming in, a park she where loves to run. Search all these places. Most dogs prefer to remain in familiar territory — they just like to go on social walkabouts from time to time.

If a search of your dog’s favorite places turns up nothing, notify the local animal-control office and shelters. Often, when people find a stray dog, that’s the first place they call. Even if nobody has called yet, leave your name, phone number, and a description of your dog in case someone calls in the next few days.

If your mixed breed hasn’t been found within 24 hours, make signs with a recent photo of your dog. Be sure to list your contact information, written large and clearly. If you can, offer a small reward. Don’t specify the amount on the sign — just say, “Reward Offered.”

by Miriam Fields-Babineau