Unwrapping the Whole Poodle Package

 

In This Chapter

• Taking a tour of the Poodle’s history
• Looking at the Poodle’s build and temperament
• Examining the requirements of different breed standards

You can just own a Poodle, period, or you can add to your enjoyment by understanding where Poodles came from, what makes a good Poodle, and maybe a little bit about why Poodles act the way they do. In this chapter, you find a bit of general canine history, discover the different sizes of Poodles, examine the anatomy of a Poodle, and get the standard: what makes a Poodle a Poodle. I also give you the scoop on a Poodle’s temperament and personality.

Walking through the History of the Breed

In the following sections, I take you on a tour of the history of the Poodle breed, from its beginnings to modern times.

In the beginning, there was dog . . .

Technical Stuff

All dogs are descended from the wolf, which may explain why they howl at sirens and the like. The original dog was domesticated between 13,000 and 17,000 years ago. From those early beginnings, man has created over 300 breeds, from tiny Chihuahuas and Yorkshire Terriers to giant Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, and shaggy Newfoundlands. Each breed was developed with a specific purpose in mind, from sitting in a person’s lap and being a companion, to guarding livestock and property, to retrieving fallen game.

As time went by, people began expecting dogs to be able to do more than their primary tasks, because it’s easier and cheaper to have one dog do many jobs than to have a separate dog for each task. The Poodle, for example, was bred to hunt and retrieve game and to have an instinct to herd livestock.

Just when and where the Poodle emerged as a separate breed is hard to say. Romans carved Poodle-like dogs on tombs as early as 30 A.D., and they were pictured on Greek and Roman coins, but experts don’t know if those dogs died out or if they further evolved into the modern Poodle.

Poodles are sometimes called “French Poodles,” but the breed is generally considered German even though its actual country of origin is unclear. Dogs from Russia and France contributed to the modern Poodle, and one theory states that the Poodle’s ancestors came from Portugal or Spain.

Technical Stuff

The FCI, the European organization that sponsors pan-European dog shows, regards France as the official “country of origin” of the Poodle and uses the French breed standard as the standard of judging in FCI shows. The ancestors of poodles actually originated in a number of places in Europe.

The following list gives you a sampling of the beginnings of the Poodle in Europe:

- Fifteenth-century writings and art from France, Holland, and Italy refer to Poodles. Many paintings show the Poodle in trims similar to today’s show trims (Chapter Providing Your Poodle with a Nutritious Diet has more about trims).

- German writings from the 1500s describe the “Pudel” as a large, black water retriever. Pudel or pudelin means to splash in the water. In Belgium and France, the dog was called the “Poedel.” The English name, Poodle, came from these original titles.

- In France, where the dog was popular, people also called the Poedel the Caniche, meaning duck dog. Early writings described the dog as intelligent and sturdy, with curly hair.

- The German Poodle, or Pudel, was thickset and had a wooly coat texture. Early German artwork shows the dog with both a curly and a corded coat.

All these varieties of Poodles are famous for working in the water. So much so, in fact, that the Poodle’s coat was trimmed to facilitate swimming, yet keep the chest and joints warm.

The appearance of Poodle varieties

Authorities agree that the Standard Poodle is the oldest of the three varieties, but the Toy and the Miniature Poodles weren’t far behind. (See the section “Measuring up sizes,” later in this chapter, for info on Standards, Toys, and Miniatures.) Fifteenth-century paintings feature Toy Poodles, including drawings by German artist Albrecht Durer. Paintings created by Goya in the late 18th century show the Toy Poodle as one of the main pets in Spain.

People most likely developed Toy and Miniature Poodles by crossing small Standards with Maltese and Havanese, and possibly Toy Spaniels. Experts also concede the possibility of dash of Terrier.

Both Toy and Miniature Poodles were popular with the French court during the reigns of Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI, during the 17th and 18th centuries, and these smaller dogs were also popular as circus performers in the 18th and 19th centuries. Their intelligence made them easy to train as entertainers.

The Poodle’s modern rise in popularity

Most of Europe embraced the Poodle from the beginning, but it wasn’t until the end of the 19th century that the breed became popular in Britain. In 1887 in the United States, the American Kennel Club (AKC) registered its first Poodle, a dog named Czar, but the breed didn’t become popular until after World War II. Standard Poodles imported mainly from Britain attracted the most interest in those early years. The majority of the dogs were black, white, or brown.

The United Kennel Club (UKC), based in the U.S., recognized the Poodle as a breed in 1914, and in 1999, it divided the Poodle into two separate breeds (I cover both the AKC and the UKC later in this chapter):

- The Standard Poodle, in the gun dog group

- The Poodle, with Miniature and Toy varieties, in the companion dog group

In 1930, the AKC had registered only 34 Poodles. In the spring of 1931, though, Helene Whitehouse Walker imported three Standard Poodles from England and established Carillon Kennels. Shortly thereafter, she and nine others formed the Poodle Club of America. Her father, Henry J. Whitehouse, served as the first president of the club, and Mrs. Walker was secretary/treasurer. And from 1939 through 1945, she was president of the club.

Look both ways when Poodle crossing Poodle crosses, such as Labradoodles and Cockapoos, are becoming very popular because it has become trendy to own a “designer breed.” People also believe that these mixed breeds will have the advantage of non-shedding, hypoallergenic coats, and that they may be easy to train because of the intelligence of the Poodle half of the mix. There’s no guarantee of any of this, though. The only sure thing is that these dogs aren’t purebreds (that is, they don’t “breed true”). Breed a Poodle with another Poodle and all the puppies will be Poodles, with Poodle coats and Poodle temperaments, instincts, and size. With a purebred, you know what you’re getting. If you breed a Poodle-Labrador cross with another Poodle-Labrador cross, some of the puppies may look more like Poodles and some may look more like Labradors. You have no way of knowing how many puppies will have the coat of a Poodle and how many will sport the coat of a Labrador. You won’t know what size the puppies will grow to as adults, nor what health issues they may face. And don’t kid yourself: You will have to deal with health issues. Mixed breeds aren’t necessarily healthier than purebreds. In spite of claims to the contrary, crossbred dogs don’t inherit the “best of both breeds.” In fact, they often have the least desirable traits of their two parents’ breeds. “Designer dogs” sell for just as much, if not more than, purebred puppies. If you want a mixed breed, check out your local shelter; chances are, you’ll find just what you’re looking for and spend a lot less money. If you want all the positive aspects of a Poodle, get a Poodle.

By the 1960s, the Poodle had become the most popular breed in the United States, and it stayed at the top for 23 years. In 1994, the Poodle dropped to fifth in AKC registrations, and in 2006, it still stood in the top ten, ranking eighth.

Technical Stuff

Because the AKC considers all three sizes of Poodle as varieties of one breed, it publishes no separate registration figures.

Remember

Today’s Poodle is as versatile as the first Pudel that roamed a German farm, which may explain its great popularity. All three sizes make wonderful pets, and the Poodle can still herd, retrieve game, and protect. In competitive events, you’d be hard pressed to find a contest the Poodle can’t conquer, from the glamour of conformation showing to the fast-paced agility ring, to a pond of cold water in a hunt test (see Chapter Showing Off and Enjoying Your Poodle’s Talents for more about these types of events). 

Picturing a Poodle’s Physical Traits and Personality

The Poodle is considered one breed, with three “varieties” within the breed. That means that, except for the size difference, each variety is identical to the rest. No matter what the size, a Poodle is an intelligent, friendly companion. In the following sections, I describe the size, anatomy, and temperament of the Poodle breed.

Measuring up sizes

The Poodle comes in three sizes; each size is essentially the same dog, save the difference in height. The sizes, from largest to smallest, are

- Standard

- Miniature

- Toy

You can see the three different sizes in Figure 2-1.

Figure 2-1: The Poodle breed comes in Standard, Miniature, and Toy sizes.

Scoping out a Poodle’s anatomy

Figure 2-2 shows a side view of the Poodle. Note that the Poodle is essentially square, measuring the same from withers (the highest part of the back) to ground as from the point of the chest to the point of the rump.

Figure 2-2: A side view of the Poodle.

Figure 2-3 shows a Poodle’s front and back. The Poodle’s front paws face front, and the legs are straight and parallel. The same is true of the hind legs.

Check out the top view of a Poodle in Figure 2-4. Note that there is a slight indentation behind the ribs, giving the Poodle a “waist.”

Figure 2-3: The front and back of a Poodle.

Figure 2-4: The top view of the Poodle.

Taking a look at temperament

All three types of Poodles are intelligent and have a definite sense of humor, and all three should conform to breed standards (see the following section), but you should be aware of general differences in temperament between the three varieties:

- A Standard tends to be more aloof and self-contained.

- A Miniature picks her person and wants to always be with that person. A Mini never lets up; she always wants to do something — anything — with her person.

- A Toy is happy to curl up on your lap and cuddle.

I’m not saying that a Toy can’t excel in agility or doesn’t enjoy obedience training or that a Standard isn’t a loving companion, but, in general, the three types of Poodles do exhibit different personalities.

No matter what size you prefer, you’re going to get a dog willing to participate in family activities. Poodles also are intelligent, which means that if you don’t give them something to do, they’ll invent something, which may not meet with your approval. Their intelligence means they’re the perfect partners for performance event competition, but you don’t have to compete (see Chapter Showing Off and Enjoying Your Poodle’s Talents for more information if you do want to compete). Teach your Poodle tricks. Have her pick up dirty laundry and put it in a basket. She can do the same with her toys when company’s coming.

All three sizes are friendly and greet invited guests with a wagging tail. That doesn’t mean that they won’t sound the alarm if a stranger’s at the door, and Standards can be effective guard dogs. Poodles shouldn’t be shy or fearful of new people or events.

Surveying Breed Standards

A registered dog is affiliated with an organization created solely for the purpose of registering dogs. The label of “registered” doesn’t guarantee quality, proper temperament, or good health; if your dog is registered with the American Kennel Club (AKC) or the United Kennel Club (UKC), which are the two largest registries in the United States, it just means that the dog is a purebred. Many people register their dogs in more than one registry to take advantage of more competitive events.

I explain the standards for the Poodle breed set by the AKC and the UKC in the following sections. Refer to Figure 2-2 to find the different parts of the Poodle mentioned in the breed standards.

The American Kennel Club

The AKC, founded in 1884, is the world’s largest purebred dog registry. Besides its dedication to being a registry, the AKC promotes purebred dogs as companions, works to promote responsible dog ownership, and invests in research to help keep dogs healthy. You can visit www.akc.org to get more information about the group and to find the exact Poodle breed standard.

The AKC places the Standard and Miniature varieties in the nonsporting group and the Toy in the toy group (pretty tough gig at the AKC!). Except for size, the standards for the three varieties are identical. In the following sections, I summarize the important traits and the major faults set by the AKC breed standard. (A major fault is a distinct deviation from the standard’s desired characteristics.)

Remember

Throughout the standard, some aspects of temperament or structure are major faults. If you’re showing your Poodle, a major fault will likely get you eliminated. If your Poodle is a pet and won’t be shown, some major faults aren’t that major. For instance, a nose that is part black and part pink is a major fault in conformation, but it won’t affect your pet’s ability to be a loving companion.

General appearance and size

What makes a Poodle a Poodle? Leaving aside specifics, most people know a Poodle when they see one. The breed standard wants to make sure that fact is always true.

- General appearance: A Poodle is active, smart, dignified, and elegant. It should be squarely built and well proportioned, and should move soundly and carry itself proudly.

- Size: Size separates the three Poodle varieties in the AKC. Otherwise, the standard for each variety is identical:

• A Standard Poodle is over 15 inches at the shoulders’ highest point.
• A Miniature Poodle is 15 inches or less at the shoulders’ highest point but measures at least 10 inches.
• A Toy Poodle stands 10 inches or less at the shoulders’ highest point.

- Proportion: Poodles are a square breed. The length of a Poodle’s body from the breastbone to the point of the rump should about equal the height from the highest point of the shoulders to the ground.

- Substance: The Poodle is no lightweight. The forelegs’ and hind legs’ bone and muscle should be in proportion to the Poodle’s size. A Poodle doesn’t have thin, spindly legs and weak feet. These dogs were developed to work.

The head and neck

The standard discusses the proper Poodle in sections, starting at the front with the head and neck:

- Eyes: Your Poodle’s eyes should be very dark, oval, and set far enough apart so that your Poodle has an alert, intelligent expression. Round, protruding, large, or very light eyes are considered a major fault.

- Ears: A Poodle’s ears should hang close to the head and be set at or slightly below eye level. The flap should be long, wide, and thickly feathered, but the fringe shouldn’t be too long.

- Skull: A Poodle’s skull should be moderately rounded and have a slight but definite stop (the area between the muzzle and the head). The length between the occiput and the stop should be about the same as the length of the muzzle.

- Muzzle: Look for a long, straight muzzle with a little chiseling under the eyes. A major fault here is a lack of chin.

- Teeth: A Poodle’s teeth should be white and strong, and they have a scissors bite. Major faults include having an undershot, overshot, or wry mouth.

- Neck: A Poodle’s neck should be well proportioned, strong, and long. The skin at the throat should be snug, and the neck should rise from strong, smoothly muscled shoulders. The major fault here is ewe neck, which means that the top of the neck is concave rather than convex.

- Topline: The topline, or back, should be level, and it shouldn’t slope or be convex from the shoulder blade’s highest point to the tail’s base. However, there should be a slight hollow just behind the shoulder.

The body

Next, the breed standard describes a Poodle’s square body in detail:

- Body: A Poodle’s chest should be deep and moderately wide. The loin should be short, broad, and muscular, and the tail should be straight, set on high, carried up, and cut to a proper length so that the Poodle’s outline is balanced. A tail set low, curled, or carried over the back is considered a major fault.

- Forequarters: A Poodle needs strong, smoothly muscled shoulders. A steep shoulder, which shortens a dog’s gait and makes the way it moves less efficient, is a major fault.

- Forelegs: A Poodle’s forelegs are straight and parallel from the front. From the side, the elbows should be directly below the shoulders’ highest points.

- Feet: The feet should be small and oval, have well-arched toes, and be cushioned on thick, firm pads. The nails should be short but not too short, and the feet are turned neither in nor out. A major fault here is a paper or splay foot. A paper foot is a very thin, flat foot. A dog with a thin, flat foot or splayed toes will tire easily, and she may even injure herself because the foot isn’t providing the proper support.

- Hindquarters: A Poodle’s hind legs should be muscular, straight, and parallel from the rear. When the Poodle stands, the rear toes should be only slightly behind the point of the rump. Cow-hocks are a major fault. Cow-hocks are when the hock joints turn in and the feet point out. The hock joint corresponds to the heel of a person, although in a dog, it doesn’t touch the ground as a human heel does.

The coat, clips, and color

The descriptions of the clips listed in the standard must be followed if you’re showing your dog in conformation. If your dog is a pet or competing in performance events, however, the choice of clip is yours. Just make sure that your choice includes keeping your dog clean and brushed. See Chapter Providing Your Poodle with a Nutritious Diet for more information on coat care and for detailed descriptions of different clips.

- Coat: A Poodle’s coat is curly; it has a naturally harsh, dense texture. Corded hair should hang in tight, even cords of varying length. It should be longer on the mane or body coat, head, and ears and shorter on puffs, bracelets, and pompons.

- Clip: A Poodle under 12 months may be shown in the puppy clip. In all regular classes, Poodles 12 months and over must be shown in the English saddle or continental clip. In the Stud Dog and Brood Bitch classes and in a non-competitive Parade of Champions (see Chapter Showing Off and Enjoying Your Poodle’s Talents for details), Poodles may be shown in the sporting clip. A Poodle shown in any other type of clip doesn’t meet AKC standards. Chapter Providing Your Poodle with a Nutritious Diet has full descriptions of these clips.

Tip

In all types of clips, you can leave the hair of the topknot (on the skull, from the stop to the occiput) free or hold it in place with elastic bands. The topknot is the only area where you may use elastic bands.

- Color: The coat’s color should be even and solid at the skin. In blues, grays, silvers, browns, cafe-au-laits, apricots, and creams (see Chapter Deciding Whether a Poodle Is Right for You for more about colors), the coat may show varying shades of the same color. Natural color variation isn’t considered a fault.

Brown and cafe-au-lait Poodles have liver-colored noses, eye rims, and lips; dark toenails; and dark amber eyes. Black, blue, gray, silver, cream, and white Poodles have black noses, eye rims, and lips; black or self-colored toenails; and very dark eyes. The AKC prefers the foregoing coloring in apricots, but livercolored noses, eye rims, and lips and amber eyes are allowed.

A major fault is an incomplete color of the nose, lips and eye rims, or a wrong color for the color of the Poodle. A Poodle’s nose should be a solid color, either black or liver. If either of these colors is mixed with a lighter color, it’s a fault.

Parti-colored dogs, whose coats have two or more colors at the skin — are disqualified by AKC standards.

Gait and temperament

Wrapping up the AKC breed standard are notes on the Poodle’s gait and temperament:

- Gait: A Poodle should trot lightly and have a strong drive from the hindquarters. It should carry its head and tail up and move soundly and effortlessly.

- Temperament: Poodles are very active and intelligent, and they have a dignified air. The standard considers shyness or sharpness to be a major fault. Responsible breeders work hard to eliminate these types of faults.

The United Kennel Club

The UKC, founded in 1898, is the world’s largest performance dog registry and the second oldest all-breed registry in the United States. The UKC supports the “total dog” philosophy. It also offers a wide variety of performance and conformation events. You can visit www.ukcdogs.com to find out more about the group and to find the exact Poodle breed standard.

Tip

The UKC places the Standard Poodle in the gun dog group and the Miniature and Toy varieties in the companion dog group. Except for references to work in the field and height, the standards for all three varieties are identical.

In the following sections, I summarize the UKC breed standard. The Poodle standard for both the AKC and the UKC are similar, but some differences exist, especially in colors allowed. Both registries call for steady temperaments and the ability to move well.

General appearance and characteristics

The UKC standard first gives an overview of the Poodle and then discusses individual features to give more detail to the “blueprint”:

- General appearance: The Poodle is dignified, proud, medium sized, and squarely built, and it has a harsh, curly coat that may be clipped traditionally or corded. The ears should be long, drop, and be densely feathered. The tail is normally cut to a proper length, set high, and carried erect. The length of body (from the sternum to the point of the buttocks) is equal to the height (from the withers to the ground).

- Characteristics: The Poodle is most easily identified by its harsh, dense coat, which can be presented in various traditional trims or corded (which happens less frequently). The Poodle also is noted for its high intelligence and trainability. Although Poodles are suspicious of strangers, they need human companionship and don’t do well without regular, close interaction with family. They’re also affectionate with children.

The gait and temperament noted for the Poodle in the UKC standard is similar to those listed in the AKC standard.

The head and neck

The UKC standard starts at the front of the Poodle and works back, describing the perfect Poodle.

The head should be in proportion to the Poodle’s size. From the side, the skull and muzzle should be roughly parallel to each other and joined by a slight but definite stop. The skull should be long and moderately rounded on top, with clean, flat cheeks.

In profile, the muzzle should be straight and roughly equal in length to the skull. The lips should be tight with black or liver pigment appropriate to the coat color. Serious faults here include incomplete lip pigment, wrong color for the color of the coat, and a weak underjaw.

Standards for a Poodle’s teeth, nose, eyes, ears, and neck are similar to those of the AKC standard.

The body

The UKC and the AKC agree on the overall build of a Poodle, including its forequarters, hindquarters, feet, and tail, although the official wording may differ in some places.

The UKC adds to its description of a Poodle’s body that the loin appears short, broad, and muscular. The ribs extend well back and are well sprung from the spine, curving down and in. The brisket (or chest) extends to the elbow.

The coat, clips, and color

The UKC standard also lists the qualities of coat, color, and proper clips for a Poodle:

- Coat: A Poodle has a harsh, dense, curly coat. If you’re interested in conformation shows (see Chapter Showing Off and Enjoying Your Poodle’s Talents for details), you may present the coat naturally, corded, or in a traditional clip.

- Clips: Like the AKC, the UKC recognizes several different clips for the conformation ring: puppy, English saddle, continental, and sporting. See Chapter Providing Your Poodle with a Nutritious Diet for full details about these clips.

- Color: Both the UKC and the AKC recognize solid colors (apricot, black, blue, cream, gray, silver, white, and different shades of brown, such as café-au-lait), but the UKC also approves parti-colored Poodles, phantoms, abstracts, sables, and multi-patterned Poodles:

• Parti-colored: Parti-colored Poodles are at least 50 percent white, with spots or patches of any other recognized solid color. The head can have a solid color, with a white muzzle, blaze, or white muzzle/blaze combination. (A blaze is a strip of white running up the muzzle and between the eyes.) Full or partial saddles are also accepted, as long as they don’t exceed the color proportion of 50-50. Ticking (small flecks of color) in the white of the coat is acceptable but not preferred.
• Phantom: Phantoms have a solid base color with defined markings of a second acceptable color above each eye, on the sides of the muzzle, on the throat, on the forechest, on all four legs and feet, and below the tail. A phantom without clearly defined face markings or one with its whole face in the second color is acceptable, as long as the coat maintains all the other body markings.
• bstract: Abstracts have less than 50 percent white, with the remaining percentage being any other acceptable solid color.
• Sable: A sable coat has black-tipped hairs on a background of any solid color. There is no particular pattern for such hairs.
• Multi-patterned: A multi-patterned coat clearly shows more than one acceptable color pattern. For example, a parti-colored dog could have full or incomplete phantom markings. You could also see a phantom with additional abstract markings.

by Susan M.Ewing

Socializing Your Poodle

In This Chapter

• Getting your Poodle used to new folks
• Dealing with new situations, objects, and noises

Faces, places, and things that go bump in the night: You want your Poodle to be comfortable with all of these things. This chapter helps you socialize your Poodle so that he’s not a “scaredy cat.”

Acclimating Your Poodle to New Faces

Your Poodle needs to feel comfortable in the world beyond his immediate family, and the only way that’s going to happen is to introduce him to as many different people as possible while he’s young. (You can socialize an older dog, but it’s much harder.) I give you some pointers in the following sections.

Meeting the neighbors

Give your Poodle a few days to get used to his new home and family (see Chapter Preparing for Your Poodle’s Homecoming about welcoming your Poodle home) and then start introducing him to the wide world. Until he has all his shots, you don’t want him running at the local dog park, but he can start to meet the neighbors — both human and canine.

Let your children bring home their friends to play with your Poodle. Supervise their play so no one gets hurt. Make sure younger children, especially, understand how to be gentle with a puppy, and keep the play sessions short and quiet. Very young children don’t understand that tugging on an ear or a tail can hurt a dog, so you may have to remove either the puppy or the child from the group. Chapter Preparing for Your Poodle’s Homecoming has more details on introducing a Poodle to children.

Remember

To a dog, all humans aren’t created equal. A dog differentiates between men, women, and children and needs to meet and be comfortable with all three categories:

- If you’re childless, ask the neighbor children to play with your puppy.

- If you have no men in your household, ask a few male friends to stop by to meet your puppy.

- If your household is all male, find a female or two who can help socialize your puppy.

Many experienced dog trainers recommend that a puppy meet at least 100 people by the time he’s 12 weeks old. Here are some guidelines for introducing your Poodle to new people:

- If you have a fenced yard, invite friends and neighbors over to meet your Poodle while he’s off his lead. If you don’t have a fence, keep your Poodle on a lead for the meetings. Have plenty of treats handy for the visitors to give.

- If your Poodle is full of energy and likely to jump up, be cautious around small children, who can get knocked down. Keep your dog on a lead when meeting children, and encourage children to approach him quietly.

- Carry treats with you on walks. If you meet someone, ask if they’ll pet your Poodle and give him a treat.

Anecdote

My adult female is a bit shy, but she never hesitates to approach a stranger at a dog show because she’s learned that almost everyone has a pocketful of liver!

- Keep greetings low key, and let your Poodle approach people on his own. Don’t drag him up to people and force him to hold still for petting.

Setting up play dates

Play dates are a good way for your puppy to meet other dogs in a controlled setting. If you know someone with a puppy of any breed, or with a smaller adult dog, arrange a play date. Plan the date for a secure area. At first, it’s best to have two or three dogs in the group so it’ll be easier to control them should things get out of hand.

Warning!

While your Poodle is still a puppy, stay away from larger adult dogs who may be too rough for a puppy. If your dog’s play date is with an adult dog, make the introductions gradually. Most adult dogs are fine with a small puppy, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. Keep the dogs on loose leads for the introduction.

Tip

Don’t tighten the leads. The tension of the lead can translate as tension, which can lead to aggression, instead of a friendly greeting.

Most adult dogs understand that puppies aren’t a threat, and they’ll accept things from puppies that they would never allow in another adult dog. Still, if you notice the hair on the adult dog’s neck and back going up or feel a growl through the lead, or if the adult lifts his lip, it’s time to separate the dogs before a fight breaks out.

You can organize neighbors to meet an older Poodle, too, but you may need to be more cautious. An older dog may already be leery of children or men, and you need to proceed slowly and with care to overcome your dog’s fear.

Enrolling in puppy kindergarten or other classes

If you don’t have any children in your neighborhood and can’t find a friend with a dog for play dates, puppy kindergarten is a wonderful way to socialize a puppy. Animal shelters sometimes hold puppy kindergarten classes, or they may know someone who does offer classes. Call area boarding kennels or contact your local kennel club or dog training club to find a puppy kindergarten near you.

Although your puppy may discover a few basic commands in class, formal training isn’t the point of puppy kindergarten. The goal is to socialize the puppies and make them happy to see people and other dogs. One common kindergarten exercise is to have people sit on the ground in a circle, with a puppy in the middle. Taking turns, the people call the puppy, using a high, happy voice and giving lots of treats and pats when the puppy responds. This exercise teaches a puppy that people have good things to offer. The puppy also realizes that responding when called is a good thing.

If you’ve adopted an older dog, ask around about basic obedience classes. A beginner’s class may be the perfect way to introduce your older Poodle to strange people and dogs.

Remember

Visit any training class before joining. Look for a class that uses positive training methods. Poodles don’t respond well to harsh training methods.

Talk to the instructor ahead of time if your dog is shy or fearful around other dogs or if you think your dog may be aggressive, either with dogs or with people. A good instructor can help with these issues without endangering anyone.

Handling Strange Situations, Objects, and Noises

Getting your Poodle used to different situations, objects, and noises doesn’t mean your dog may not be startled by something, but it does mean that he can recover quickly and return to normal — and not cower or bark. In the following sections, I explain how to prepare your Poodle for car rides, get him used to new situations and objects, and handle a fear of loud noises.

Going for car rides

Most puppies adjust easily to car rides. Occasionally, a puppy can be carsick, but he generally outgrows this, especially if you make sure that rides are a pleasant treat (make sure you don’t always end at the veterinarian’s). If your puppy gets carsick, keep rides short and carry a roll of paper towels for clean up.

Tip

If you have an older dog, and he only enters the car kicking and screaming, take it slow and be patient. Open doors on both sides of the car and coax your dog in with treats, and then let him leave by way of the opposite door. Don’t try to keep him in the car.

After he’s comfortable getting in and out of the car, shut one door. Get him in the car, give him a treat, and get out of the car. Gradually, stay in the car with him, until he’s comfortable sitting with you. Shut the door and sit awhile, offering tasty treats.

When your Poodle is happy with this arrangement, take a short drive. The important word is short — which may mean the length of your driveway and back. Gradually increase the length of the ride. Drive around the block or to a neighborhood park.

Offer treats and keep your tone of voice upbeat during a car ride. Take your Poodle with you when you do your banking. Many tellers keep dog treats at the drive-thru window. Stop by the local fast food restaurant for a snack. Sometimes they also have dog biscuits at the take-out window, or you can order a burger. . . hold everything. It won’t take your dog long to associate car rides with goodies.

Remember

Did I mention that you need to restrain your Poodle in some way while he’s in the car? You can crate your dog, or you can secure him with a special seat restraint (see Chapter Choosing the Best Poodle for Youfor more about these items). As with children, your dog should always be in the back seat. Not only is it safer for the dog, but also he can’t interfere with the driver, which makes the back seat safer for everyone.

Adjusting to unfamiliar situations and objects

Introduce your Poodle to as many unfamiliar things as possible in a controlled setting, so you can make the encounters positive and reward his positive reactions.

Tip

To help familiarize your Poodle with a variety of people, places, sounds, and situations, try these helpful tips:

- Start introducing the unfamiliar when your Poodle is young and let him be a part of family life. Put his crate or pen in the kitchen or family room where he can get used to pots and pans banging or a timer beeping. Let him hear a radio or television, and if no one else does, ring the doorbell occasionally.

- Give your Poodle different surfaces to walk on. Put down a piece of carpeting or linoleum. Lay a section of screen on the floor. Put a milk jug in his pen or out in the yard. Outside, make a small playground. Cut the bottom from a box to form a small tunnel. Give him steps to go up and down.

- Take your puppy with you whenever you can (prepare him with the information on car rides in the previous section). Most banks allow dogs, and having the tellers make a fuss over your puppy and offer treats helps him think of strangers in a positive way. Weather permitting, sit on a bench outside a shopping mall. It’s an easy way for your puppy to meet all kinds of people, dressed in all kinds of outfits, as well as being exposed to shopping carts and strollers.

- Get your Poodle used to people wearing different kinds of hats, as well as glasses. Place an open umbrella near your puppy and let him get used to it.

- When you’re adding something new to the environment, invite your puppy to sniff the object. I tell my dogs to “smell,” and when they do, I praise and, if possible, give a small treat.

- If your Poodle is already a member of the family when a new baby arrives, make introductions. Some people will bring home a garment from the hospital that the baby has worn to get the dog used to the smell before the baby ever comes home. Hold the baby and let your Poodle smell it, and then praise him. A new baby needs a lot of attention, but don’t ignore your dog. Try to make time for regular walks and play. Let the dog join you as you care for the baby. The more your Poodle is included, the easier he’ll accept the new addition to the family.

The more you can introduce to your puppy, the fewer problems you’ll have when your dog grows up. You can get an adult dog used to new situations using the same techniques you use with a puppy, but it takes longer if he hasn’t had a history of discovering new situations as a puppy.

Easing a fear of loud noises

Sometimes, in spite of all your efforts, something frightens your dog. Don’t cuddle your Poodle and tell him everything is all right. You just reinforce his behavior, and he begins to equate a loud noise with your attention.

Anecdote

The first dog I ever had was terrified of thunder and felt much more secure in the bathtub or shut in the car. (I didn’t know about crates then.) As my male has aged, he’s become more sensitive to thunder. If I notice he’s becoming nervous or if he’s pacing or whining, I distract him with a toy or a treat or try to interest him in a game.

Some dogs react to thunder; others pay no attention at all. If your dog is truly bothered by thunder, you can work to desensitize him. Get a recording, or make your own, of a thunderstorm. Play this on very low volume. If your dog doesn’t react, turn the volume up a bit. As soon as your dog reacts to the sound, distract him with a game or make him work for a treat. Just say a quick “down,” “sit,” or “come,” so that he’s rewarded for doing something. You can also try a toy that holds food or dispenses it, so that your dog can focus on getting goodies and not on the noise. With each session, try to increase the volume until your dog ignores even the loudest thunderclap. This technique can be used with other loud noises, too, such as fireworks.

Tip

If your Poodle is still bothered, try putting some cotton in his ears to muffle the sound. He may just shake his head until the cotton falls out, but it’s worth a try!

The change in air pressure can bother a dog more than the actual noise of the thunder. Try to distract your Poodle with games or toys until the storm has passed. Try a peanut-butter-filled Kong or a similar toy that dispenses treats as your Poodle rolls and bats it around.

by Susan M.Ewing

Welcoming Your Poodle Home

In This Chapter

• Taking your Poodle home
• Showing your Poodle around the house
• Introducing family members (of all kinds) to your Poodle
• Getting through the first night
• Anticipating and solving potential problems

If you’re jumping into this chapter, you’ve most likely chosen the Poodle that’s right for you. Congratulations! (If not, you can head to Chapter Deciding Whether a Poodle Is Right for You to find out how.) This chapter gives you tips for picking up your Poodle and introducing her to the rest of the family, to other pets, and to her designated spaces (see Chapter Choosing the Best Poodle for You), all with a minimal level of stress for both of you. I also show you how to make it through the first night with ease and how to handle any problems that may crop up at the outset.

Picking Up Your Poodle

The big day has arrived. Your wonderful Poodle is finally joining the family. Things may seem a little hectic at first, so take a minute to plan ahead so that the first day at home goes smoothly for both you and the Poodle. In the following sections, I explain how to choose the best day and time for pickup, the items to bring home along with the Poodle, and how to transport your Poodle safely.

Selecting the right day and the right time

Ideally, your Poodle should join the family on a day when you can devote your time to getting her settled. Weekend days are a good choice because no one is rushing to get to work or school, and everyone can help out. If you decide to pick up the Poodle on a Saturday, try to get her in the morning. That gives you two full days before the Monday-morning routine.

Warning!

If you want to get your Poodle on a Friday, go as early in the afternoon as you can. If you go too late in the day, your Poodle may only have time for a quick tour before bedtime, which may make it harder for her to get to sleep. Even if you do follow this advice, though, odds are your puppy will cry the first night or two. Even an adult Poodle that you adopt may whine a bit.

Another option for bringing your Poodle home is at the beginning of a vacation. By spending the family vacation at home, you and your Poodle have plenty of time to adjust to each other.

If your schedule is just too crazy for a long introduction, and Wednesday night after supper is the only time you can pick up the Poodle, that’s okay, too. In time, you’ll all adjust.

Taking home other items besides the Poodle

Most likely, you’re picking up your puppy from a breeder (see Chapter Deciding Whether a Poodle Is Right for You for details on places to find a Poodle). At the appointed time, you arrive at the breeder’s pickup location, and he gives you your adorable Poodle puppy. However, that’s not all you should receive. The breeder should also give you the following:

- A three-generation pedigree

- The American Kennel Club (AKC) registration slip (see Chapter Socializing Your Poodle for more information on the AKC and Chapter Deciding Whether a Poodle Is Right for You for more on pedigrees and registrations)

- Your puppy’s health record and health guarantee

- A sales contract

- A two- or three-day supply of whatever food your puppy has been eating

Remember

As long as you know what kind of food your puppy has been eating, you can get your own if the breeder doesn’t offer some. However, you should make sure that you leave with a bill of sale (and/or a contract), the registration slip, and the health information. Don’t pay for and accept a puppy without these items.

Remember

Whatever else your breeder gives you, the most important extra item you can get is his phone number. Reputable breeders want the best for their puppies and for the people who buy them.

You should be able to call your breeder if you have a question or problem, and he should be happy to help you. Don’t just call with problems, either. Your breeder will be delighted to hear that your darling graduated from kindergarten or behaved perfectly at the groomer’s office.

If you’re picking up an older Poodle from a shelter, you’ll probably just get the dog. However, if you ask, the shelter also may give you health records if the Poodle has been vaccinated and/or spayed or neutered. The pickup policies of rescue organizations vary; one may send a dog to a new home with some food and a favorite toy. Others come prepared with registration papers, but most of the time shelters can’t provide them.

Traveling home safely

If your breeder gives you a crate, or if you already have a crate, be sure to use it for the ride home. The crate makes the trip home safe and simple. You can line the crate with newspaper to help absorb accidents and add a bit of toweling or a blanket for the puppy’s comfort. A cuddly toy may keep the puppy happy. (See Chapter Choosing the Best Poodle for You for full details on selecting a crate for your Poodle.)

Is it wise to get a Christmas puppy? Christmas has long been the one holiday that is not considered a good time to get a new puppy. Many breeders refuse to sell puppies two weeks before or two weeks after Christmas. The reason for this reluctance is that Christmas is a hectic time, with a lot of activities, friends, and relatives hustling in and out, leaving little time for puppy care. Puppies need structure, especially as housetraining begins, and the Christmas break may not allow for that structure. Lately, some shelters have found that if a family fully understands the demands of a new pet, the Christmas break gives the family the time it needs with the pet, and the adoption works quite well. If you think Christmas break can work, consider the age of your children. For families with very young children, I still say Christmas is a bad time. For homes with older children or adults-only homes, it may work, but Christmas time still wouldn’t be my first choice. In fact, I’d prefer getting a puppy when housetraining didn’t mean bundling up and wading through snowdrifts every hour or two. And, no matter what anyone says, Christmas Day is too hectic for getting a puppy. Put a lead and a collar, dog dishes, or a training book (or this book!) under the tree, and pick up your puppy the week after Christmas.

If you don’t have a crate yet, you can use a cardboard box and add the same items. Make sure the box is high enough so that your new puppy can’t scramble out during the ride home. If your new dog is an adult and you don’t have a crate, you should invest in a special seatbelt harness to keep your Poodle secure during the ride. (See Chapter Hitting the Road with Your Poodle for more tips on traveling with your Poodle.)

Giving Your Poodle the Grand Tour

You shouldn’t just turn your Poodle loose to explore when she first gets to her new home. You need to be a tour guide and structure her exploration. Help make the introduction to her new home a positive experience. You can start with a brief visit to the yard so she has a chance to eliminate, which lessens the chance of an accident in the house. After this trip, take your Poodle to the following spots (see Chapter Choosing the Best Poodle for You for details on selecting specific places in your home):

1. The eating spot: Take your Poodle to the spot you’ve chosen for her food and water dishes (Chapter Choosing the Best Poodle for You lets you know what kind of dishes to buy). Give her a chance to take a drink, if she wants one. Put a few tasty treats in her bowl. Don’t worry if she doesn’t eat them; she may be too overwhelmed, but at least she knows that she’s in the right spot for food. (See Chapter Making a Match with a Poodle for more on a Poodle’s diet.)

2. The sleeping spot: The next stop should be your Poodle’s bed, which may be her crate at first (see Chapter Choosing the Best Poodle for You for info on buying bedding). Wherever you’ve decided to put her crate, take your Poodle to that spot, and put her in her crate. Depending on how long the trip was from the breeder (or shelter) to your home, you may want to let her have a little rest. Keep people and other pets away from the crate and let her have a nap.

3. The potty spot: When the nap is over, take your Poodle directly to her potty spot. If your Poodle went to the bathroom in the yard when you first got home, take her back to that same area. Her nose can tell her that she’s in the right spot. If she goes, praise her.

If you’ve decided that you’re going to paper-train your Poodle or teach her to use a litter box, take her to the appropriate area indoors. Your puppy may have a few accidents before she becomes housetrained, but the sooner you start taking her to the appropriate area and the sooner she starts using it, the faster and easier housetraining is. (Head to Chapter Keeping Your Poodle Clean and Attractive for full details on housetraining.)

Meeting Other Family Members

Having a Poodle come into your home for the first time is a lifechanging event for you — and for the other members of your household. Other family members may be children, or they may be different kinds of animals — dogs, cats, guinea pigs, and so on. Your job as a tour guide isn’t over yet; you need to introduce your Poodle to whoever and whatever lives beneath your roof.

Kids in the house

Your children were probably in on the Poodle-selection process, because most breeders won’t sell puppies to families with children until they’ve seen the children with the puppies. Besides, how do you manage to keep children out of the selection process after they know about it? Your children also may have gone with you when you picked up your Poodle (see the previous sections of this chapter).

If the kids remained at home, however, and haven’t seen the Poodle since the selection was made, now’s the time to reintroduce them. If you have young children, have them sit on the floor before you hand them the puppy. Supervise the interaction. Toddlers may want to grab the puppy from a sibling. Teach them that puppies aren’t toys, and that they need to be gentle. No grabbing or pulling any part of the puppy.

If you have a baby, have one person hold the baby and someone else hold the dog on a loose lead. Allow the dog to smell the baby. Praise the dog and offer a treat. If you have a puppy, have everyone sit on the floor. Let the puppy smell the baby, but don’t let her mouth the baby. (Mouthing is covered in Chapter Housetraining Made Easy.) Always supervise contact.

Warning!

Never leave a baby alone with a dog. Babies are even more defenseless than puppies. Dogs can nip, and nails can scratch, and in more serious situations, a baby’s high-pitched noises can trigger a dog’s instinctive response to nearby prey. Introduce your baby and Poodle, but never leave them alone together.

After introductions, you should teach your children how to pick up the Poodle. A puppy shouldn’t be grabbed around the middle like a teddy bear. A person should slip a hand under the puppy’s chest and use the other hand to cradle the hindquarters. Hold the puppy firmly but gently against your chest. Very small children may not be able to manage this, so you should have them sit on the floor so you can put the puppy in their laps. Discourage children under the age of 8 from ever picking up the puppy. It’s too easy for a young child to drop a squirming puppy and injure her.

Playtime is good for both children and puppies, but remember that all youngsters need naps. Supervise the play between your children and puppy, and then put the puppy in her crate for her nap.

Tip

Depending on the age of your kids, you may want to let them help care for the Poodle. Even children under the age of 7 may be able to fill the water dish. A child of 10 or 12 can take the dog out to the yard or feed her. Just remember that your Poodle is a living entity, and that you’re responsible for her care. If your children forget their dog chores, you still need to make sure your Poodle is fed, watered, and exercised. If you have a puppy, make sure you leave housetraining chores to adults or teenagers who have a better sense of how to stick to a schedule.

Remember

You need to use caution when introducing an adult Poodle as well. A full-grown Standard Poodle can intimidate a small child, not to mention knock him down. Sit the child in a chair, and keep the dog on her lead for introductions. As with puppies, allow no grabbing or pulling of any part of the dog.

Other pets

In the following sections, I explain how to introduce your new Poodle to other pets in your home, including dogs, cats, and smaller animals.

Other dogs

Most adult dogs are just fine with puppies. They seem to recognize that the puppies are young and helpless, but you should still supervise their initial meeting to avoid trouble.

Remember

Introduce your resident dog to the new dog out in the yard, not in the house. Your current dog may be more territorial in the house. If you have more than one dog, let them meet the newcomer individually. Supervise the introductions. You don’t have to leash your resident dog, but if you feel safer with the dogs on leads, keep the leads loose. Sometimes, a dog on a lead can be more aggressive than one that’s loose — especially if the lead is tight.

Tip

Even if introductions go smoothly, be careful that the puppy doesn’t try to eat from the adult dog’s food dish. Even friendly dogs can get cranky if another dog tries to steal their food. Give treats separately for the same reason.

Cats and smaller animals

If you have an adult cat that’s used to dogs, he probably can accept the Poodle with no fuss, but you should still make the introduction carefully. A bouncy Poodle may earn a scratch on the nose!

Remember

If your cat isn’t used to dogs, you should take things even slower. Use the following steps to introduce your Poodle to your feline:

1. Before you bring the Poodle into the house, put your cat in a room and close the door.

2. Let the cat and the dog get to know each other by way of the crack under the door. Let them sniff each other.

3. When you finally open the door, make sure the Poodle is in her crate or in an exercise pen (see Chapter Choosing the Best Poodle for You). This way, the cat can approach the dog at his own pace, and the dog can’t chase or pounce on the cat.

The whole introduction process may take several days, depending on how accepting of the Poodle your cat is. When the cat seems comfortable with the dog, hold your Poodle for the first nose-tonose meeting. Continue to watch the animals as the days go by. It may take awhile, but eventually your cat and dog will probably become best friends.

Tip

If you have a friend with a cat-friendly dog, invite your friend and dog over for a visit before you bring your Poodle home. Your cat doesn’t have to actually meet the dog, but it may help get him used to the idea of a dog.

You have a few other tricks up your sleeve to make your house a Poodle/cat friendly place:

- Make sure that your cat always has a place to escape the Poodle’s attentions. Put a baby gate in a doorway of a “safe room.” Your cat can jump in, but your Poodle is kept out.

- If putting up a gate isn’t possible, make sure your cat has a high area in every room for escaping purposes. Clear off the top of a dresser or a shelf on a bookcase.

- Don’t let either animal pester the other when they’re eating or using the litter box. And speaking of the litter box, you may want to keep it out of your Poodle’s reach for another reason. Many dogs consider litter-box contents a tasty treat. (Eeeewww!)

Remember

You’ve probably seen pictures of a dog snuggling a rabbit or a parakeet sitting on a dog’s head, but these images are the exceptions. Protect your other pets from your dog. Put cages up high so that your dog can’t reach them, or put them in a room that’s off limits to the dog. If you like to let your bird out for exercise or want your bunny out for playtime, put your dog in her crate.

Surviving the First Night

You’ve given your Poodle a tour of your place and made the proper introductions. Now’s the time to settle down for the night. This may be where your adorable Poodle stops seeming so adorable.

Up until now, your Poodle has had her mom and her siblings. She’s slept in a pile of puppies, and the humans in her life have always been there. Now she’s in a strange house. She’s on her own, with no mother and no brothers and sisters. It shouldn’t surprise you that she may whine and cry the first night or two (or three).

Tip

You can try a few of the following tips to help make your Poodle comfortable and more willing to settle down and go to sleep:

- Give her a little something to eat. She’s more apt to curl up and fall asleep if she’s full.

- Take her out for a final potty break before bedtime.

- Make sure her bed is warm and cozy. If she gets cold, she may wake up, and if she wakes up, chances are you need to make another trip to the yard.

- A ticking clock may help to calm your Poodle. Wrap the clock in an old towel or soft shirt. You also can purchase beds and pillows that produce the sound of a heartbeat for up to 30 minutes.

With luck, these tips can help your puppy drift off to dreamland. Or, you may end up with a puppy who’s inconsolable. She’s warm, well-fed, and has just gone to the bathroom; yet, she’s whining or crying loudly and pathetically. It’s enough to break your heart! But you need to harden your heart. Eventually, she’ll stop crying and fall asleep, and so will you.

Tip

Many breeders begin crate training at seven weeks, teaching the puppies to spend time alone in a crate away from the litter. This makes it much easier for a puppy to adjust to a new home away from littermates. Ask your breeder if he does this or can do this with your puppy so that the change of scenery isn’t so sudden and stressful.

Anticipating Possible Problems and Planning Sensible Solutions

One old saying states that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” It’s much easier to teach your Poodle the right way to do something than it is to retrain her or to break her of a bad habit. This section helps you supply the “ounce” of prevention so you’ll never need the “pound.”

Avoiding bad habits from the outset

Nothing is cuter than a puppy, but if you’re not careful, that adorable Poodle can have you wrapped around her paw in no time. Enjoy her puppyhood, but don’t let her develop bad habits that you’ll have a hard time breaking in the future.

If you’re prepared to share your bed for the next 14 years or so with your Poodle, you can welcome her to your pillow top. However, if you don’t want to share your bed, especially with a Standard Poodle, don’t start this habit.

The same goes for furniture. You can teach your Poodle not to snooze on the sofa. The best way to do that is to never let her up on the sofa in the first place. Decide now what your policy is going to be, and stick with it. Make sure all the members of the family know the rules and obey them.

Tip

If you bring home an adult Poodle, she may already have certain habits. If she’s used to sleeping on the couch, but you don’t want her to continue this habit, be firm and consistent about removing her. Encourage her to lie in a special spot by giving her treats and plenty of praise. You also can cover your sofa with a washable throw and let her sleep there if the habit proves hard to break.

Remember

You don’t have to be an ogre, but be firm and consistent, and start her training immediately. If you have questions about behavior, call your breeder for advice. Put his number on speed dial now. (See Chapter Housetraining Made Easy for tips on instilling good manners in your Poodle.)

Handling food issues

Your Poodle should be doing just fine on whatever food your breeder or the shelter recommends, but sometimes that isn’t the case, as you can see in the following scenarios:

- Sometimes, a food that’s perfect for all the other puppies in the litter is just too rich for one of them. If your puppy is regurgitating her food, this could be why. If she seems healthy otherwise, she’s active, and she has no temperature, her problem may be the food. Gradually (over the span of a week) switch to another food. If your Poodle still has a problem, see your veterinarian. (Chapter Taking Basic Care of Your Poodle’s Health has tips on selecting the right vet for your Poodle.)

- Another consideration is that your Poodle is being too active right after a meal. Let your dog rest or quietly explore right after a meal, and discourage rough and tumble games.

Chapter Making a Match with a Poodle has full details on feeding your Poodle.

Getting used to grooming

By the time you pick up your Poodle puppy at 8 or 10 weeks, she should’ve been clipped several times in a puppy clip, which calls for the shaving of the face, feet, and tail (see Chapter Providing Your Poodle with a Nutritious Diet). The sooner the breeder starts clipping, the more comfortable the Poodle will be with it. If you put off grooming until your Poodle gets older, she’ll be very frightened of the clippers and may never be as accepting of grooming practices. As soon as you get your Poodle, make an appointment with a good groomer for no more than four weeks later. If you want to learn how to clip your Poodle yourself, ask the groomer if you can observe.

Tip

Grooming is going to be a big part of your Poodle’s life. Whether you intend to show your Poodle (see Chapter Showing Off and Enjoying Your Poodle’s Talents) or just keep her in a pet clip, you have a lot of brushing and trimming ahead of you. Start with the following tips:

- Handle your Poodle’s feet daily. You don’t need to actually cut her nails, but hold her paws in your hand. Give her treats. If you plan to use a grinder instead of nail clippers, turn on the grinder and hold one of your dog’s paw on it. Let her feel the vibration and get used to the noise.

- Brush your dog daily. This beauty routine doesn’t have to be a full grooming session. Just run the brush over her body. Start teaching her to hold still while you brush. She can either stand or lie down for these brief grooming sessions. As an adult — especially if your dog is a Standard Poodle — grooming takes some time, and she may be more comfortable lying down. If you intend to groom your Poodle yourself, invest in a grooming table.

If you adopt an adult Poodle, you can safely assume that she’s used to the grooming process. You can play it safe by applying these same tips to your adult Poodle. Chapter Providing Your Poodle with a Nutritious Diet gives you more detailed information about grooming, but for now, just start slow and get your Poodle comfortable with the process.

by Susan M.Ewing