Ten Fun Games

 

In This Chapter

• Playing games that encourage cooperation
• Mixing games and obedience

Puppies learn best through playing. How you play together, especially in those first few months, influences your relationship more than my mere words can convey. This chapter presents ten groovy games for you to play with your puppy. Read them over, try them out, eliminate what doesn’t work, and invent your own.

Remember

The games you play with your pup should encourage cooperation and focus.

Soda Bottle Soccer

Soda Bottle Soccer encourages your puppy to follow you and to fetch.

Players: Any number of people and a puppy of any age.

To play: Get several plastic bottles (with the caps and labels removed). Place a few on the ground or floor. Let your puppy check the bottles out. When she’s comfortable, start kicking. No matter how many bottles are on the playing field, your puppy will want the one you have. Kick it to her only if she’s standing calmly (to discourage confrontational play, avoid challenging your puppy for one bottle). Then go off and play with another and another and another, until you’ve tuckered out your pup.

Rules: Play with your feet, not your hands (it’s soccer, after all). Always kick the bottle your puppy’s not chasing.

The Two-Toy Toss

The Two-Toy Toss helps your puppy focus on what you have, not the other way around. It also reinforces the “Come” and “Give” directions, as well as the grab-’n-show concept found in Chapter Dealing with Daily Hassles.

Players: One puppy and one person. This game is good for pups over 12 weeks. However, younger pups may show interest for a couple of tosses.

To play: Gather two or more toys or balls. Toss one toy, and when your puppy races to get it, cheer her on. As she turns to you, say “Good puppy,” and then produce a different toy and start playing with it. When she wants the toy you have (and she will), make sure she sits politely before you toss it.

Rules: Never chase your pup or wrestle a toy out of her mouth because these actions are puppylike and will encourage confrontational play. You may exchange a toy for a treat by exchanging another toy or popping a treat into your puppy’s mouth.

The Squeak Toy Shuffle

The Squeak Toy Shuffle encourages following skills and can be played inside or out. This game is a great diversion for ankle-happy nippers.

Players: One person with one puppy. This game is good for pups under 12 weeks.

To play: Tie a squeak or rope toy onto a 4-foot leash or line and attach the other end of the line to your shoelace or ankle. Walk around, doing whatever you do. Puppies love to wrestle moving objects: Better the toy than your ankle.

Rules: Don’t move too quickly or snap the object out of your puppy’s mouth. If she starts to tug assertively, either ignore her or remove the toy from your ankle and clip it onto an immovable piece of furniture.

Fishing for Fido

Use Fishing for Fido to provide an outlet for your puppy’s chasing instincts. Because this game can be used to divert your puppy from attacking your legs, it’s great for morning foot traffic and outside runs.

Players: Good for puppies under 12 weeks and their people.

To play: Tie a squeak toy onto a 2- to 5-foot string and attach the other end of the string to a rod (anything can pass for a rod: a stick, an umbrella, and so on). By holding and moving the rod, bounce the toy in front of your puppy.

Rules: Let your pup grab the toy often to keep her interested. Avoid tug of war. If your puppy insists on tugging, look away until she gets bored, and then resume the animation.

Tip

If your puppy insists on tugging, slather the opening of a 1⁄2-gallon jug (cap and label removed) with a creamy spread. Instead of tugging, she will tackle and lick the jug. This tip also works well for the upcoming Extended Rope Toss game.

The Extended Rope Toss

The Extended Rope Toss is a great game for energy release. It also helps to relieve predatory energy (better to chase a bottle in a field than a biker on a busy street).

Players: One person and one puppy of any age.

To play: Tie an empty soda bottle (cap and label removed) or your pup’s favorite toy onto a 20- to 30-foot rope. In a yard or field, swing the object around so that your puppy chases it. If the yard or field has tall grass, use it as cover to hide the object from your puppy’s view — doing so will be much more exciting for her!

The Treat Cup Name Game

The Treat Cup Name Game encourages positive association to the direction “Come” while teaching your puppy name identification (her name and yours!).

Players: Start with two people and eventually add more as your pup masters the game. Any age puppy can play.

To play: Make a treat cup as described in Chapter Using Cool Tools and Groovy Gadgets. Shake the cup until your puppy associates the sound with a reward. Stand 6 feet from a friend and, using the other person’s name (John, for example), tell your puppy to “Find John!” as you point to John. When John hears his name, he shakes the cup and calls out your puppy’s name. When the puppy is at John’s side, John can send her back to you in the same way.

Rules: As your puppy gets better, increase your distance, eventually moving to different rooms and playing outside. Avoid correcting your puppy if she loses interest; limiting game time ensures fun.

Tip

After your puppy catches on to this game, play hide-and-seek. Either alone or with a partner, hide in gradually more concealed spots and call to your puppy as you shake your treat cup. Play this one inside and outside to encourage your puppy’s focus — whether she can see you or not!

Give (Or Drop)

The goal here is to get an automatic “spit out” reaction whenever you say the word “give.” Aside from being a handy playing skill, it has safety features that can’t be argued against. If your puppy has something you value in her mouth or an object that might endanger her, “Give” covers all bases. After you make “Give” less of a demand and more of a direction, your puppy will be eager to share her treasures.

Players: “Give” can be taught from the start, so it’s good for puppies of all ages.

To play: When your puppy is chewing on something (whether appropriate or not), approach her with a treat cup (or just a treat from your pocket) and say “Give” as you put the treat in her mouth. If she’s chewing on a puppy toy, don’t take it away from her. After you say “Give” and offer the treat, go away calmly.

Tip

If your puppy runs off with excitement, you can practice in a small bathroom to keep her confined. Or, leave a leash on her around the house to enable a calm catch.

Warning!

Rules: If your puppy is growling or clamping the object too tightly, call a professional. Aggression is no joke.

Take

If your puppy loves to carry things in her mouth, you have all you need to teach Take.

Players: Practice this game one on one with a puppy who’s at least 14 weeks old.

To play: Start with a toy or ball and go into a small room or hallway. Wave the object in front of your pup, tempting her for a few seconds before instructing “Take.” Cheer when she takes the object, letting her hold onto it for varying amounts of time. Encourage “Give” by using a treat or another toy if necessary.

Rules: Repeat this sequence no more than three to five times. Always quit while you’re ahead.

The Four-Footed Fax

The Four-Footed Fax game encourages interaction and responsibility.

Players: Two people (a sender and a receiver) and a puppy who’s at least 6 months old. Make sure your puppy has mastered the preceding three games.

To play: Ask your friend (John, for example) to stand 10 feet across the room. Encourage your puppy to “Take” a toy or other object (such as a folded newspaper) and send her to John, saying “Take it to John!” Have John kneel down and call to your puppy. When your puppy trots over, John rewards her with a treat.

Tip

If your puppy won’t carry the object all the way, have John stand right next to you and slowly inch back. With encouragement and love, your puppy will become everyone’s favorite fax machine.

Rules: Don’t discipline your puppy if she won’t cooperate. This game takes a lot of concentration.

Wiggle Giggle Freeze

The Wiggle Giggle Freeze game is a fun way to work on a challenging command such as “Sit,” “Wait,” or “Down.”

Players: Several people and, of course, a pooch. Someone who has practiced training with the puppy is chosen to give the directions. The puppy must be older than 12 weeks and must have mastered the direction that’s introduced.

To play: Pick one direction. Have everyone jump around and act goofy. Then suddenly have everyone freeze on cue. The chosen director calls out a direction. Whoever is closest to the puppy can position her calmly and then offer her a food reward or a hug. Resume goofing off. Repeat this sequence no more than five times.

Rules: Don’t repeat your direction. If your puppy doesn’t listen, help her into position before releasing her toy or treat. She’ll catch on soon enough.

Sarah Hodgson

Ten Crowd-Pleasing Tricks

 

In This Chapter

• Using your puppy’s old habits to create new tricks
• Letting your puppy show off a bit

Tricks are a real delight and can be fun for your pup to learn if you have the right approach: Training doesn’t have to be all work and structure. After your puppy knows the basic directions and shows that he enjoys the process of learning, teaching a trick or two spices up the normal routine. This chapter gives you ten favorite tricks that the two of you can learn together. You don’t have to teach every trick — just those your pup picks up easily. For example, if your puppy is paw expressive, he’ll definitely get into the Paw or Wave tricks.

Warning!

Never practice tricks during lesson time. Otherwise, you turn serious work into a game.

Bow

Does your puppy love a good stretch? Betcha didn’t know you could turn this one into a trick. Just follow these steps:

1. As your puppy’s stretching, bow toward him and say “Bow!”

2. Praise your puppy like he just invented the puppy biscuit.

Repeat these steps each time he stretches. Soon you’ll have him bowing on cue.

Paw

Teaching your puppy Paw is easy and fun. Have your pup start from a sitting position and follow these steps:

1. Say “Paw” or “Shake” as you extend a treat in front of his nose with one hand and extend the other in front of your puppy’s leg.

2. If he looks puzzled, press his shoulder muscle with your other hand.

3. Take his paw the instant he lifts it off the ground and praise him (see Figure 22-1).

Soon he’ll be reaching out for you.

Figure 22-1: “Paw” is always a crowdpleaser.

Tip

A puppy can learn many tricks from one action. With pawing, for example, you can teach your puppy to shake your hand, wave a big hello, or give you a high-five.

Wave

All my dogs have mastered the Wave. It’s a real charmer, especially for kids.

1. Have your puppy sit. Hold a treat inches from his nose and say “Wave” as you wave your hand in front of him.

2. Praise and treat him the instant he lifts his paw.

3. Encourage more enthusiastic waving as he catches on.

Tip

If your puppy is conditioned to cooperate when given a treat, phase out the treats gradually. However, always praise enthusiastically!

High-Five

Now your puppy’s going to learn the High-Five. This trick is too cool. Follow these steps:

1. Do two Paw exercises. Be enthusiastic.

2. Hold your hand up and out for the High-Five. Say “Paw, high-five!”

3. Lower your hand if your puppy makes an attempt.

Soon, he’ll be bringing that paw up with gusto.

Roll Over

Everybody loves the Roll Over routine. Some puppies are into it, but others would rather hibernate in Alaska than roll over. Does your puppy roll over on his own? Does he shift from side to side with ease? If you answered yes to either of these questions, your pup will likely be excited about this trick. Follow these steps:

1. Get a handful of treats and encourage your puppy into a “Down” position.

2. Scratch him until he rolls to one side.

3. Take the treat and circle it from your puppy’s nose, under his chin, and around behind his ear over the back of his neck (see Figure 22-2a).

4. Say “Roll Over” as you circle the treat around his nose toward the opposite side of the floor (see Figure 22-2b).

Tip

Imagine a string tied from the treat to your puppy’s nose. Basically, you’re trying to pull his body over.

5. If he seems to lean into it, praise him, and flip his paws over.

When he’s rolled over, treat and praise him (see Figure 22-2c) and encourage him to jump up.

Figure 22-2: Teaching “Roll Over” is as easy as 1-2-3.

Over

Create your first jump out of a broom and two rolls of toilet paper. A low jump builds your pup’s confidence and looks less scary.

Warning!

Puppies younger than a year should not jump at heights above their elbows - too much development is going on under the skin. Forcing high jumps could cause serious developmental damage.

Follow these steps to teach your pup how to jump:

1. Place your puppy on-lead for control.

2. Let him sniff the jump, and show him a couple of times how you jump the obstacle.

Discourage any chewing with a leash tug.

3. Give your puppy at least five strides of runway space and say “Over” as you trot toward the jump. Jump ahead of your puppy and cheer him for following you.

Remember

If your puppy refuses to jump, stay calm. Don’t pull him over. Walk over the jump several times while your puppy watches. Then try to walk over it together. Although it may take a few tries, your puppy will soon overcome his fear and be more excited for succeeding.

4. After your puppy takes the jump with pride, put him on a short lead. Drop the lead just before the jump to let your puppy take it alone.

Bravo. Enthusiastically praise your pooch.

5. Slowly fade out your approaching run but keep saying “Over” as you point to the jump.

Just for fun

“Over” can also be a game for the kids. Jumps placed in thresholds encourage jumping to fetch toys and balls. The kids can set up a course, inside or out, and jump with the puppy.

Through the Hoop

Purchase a hula hoop at a local variety store and then follow these steps:

1. Set up your original jumping pole across a threshold or between two pieces of furniture.

Put your puppy on a short lead and let him sniff the hoop as you position it on the floor in the center of the jumping pole (see Figure 22-3a).

2. Ask someone to hold the hoop or prop it up securely.

3. Instruct your puppy “Over” as you run toward the hoop, letting go of the lead as you get close (see Figure 22-3b).

4. After your puppy cooperates, combine the “Through” and “Over” directions as you start for the jump, like this: “Over-Through.”

5. Hold the hoop higher so that it’s even with the height of the original jumping pole and say “Over-Through” (see Figure 22-3c).

Your puppy may hesitate because the hoop looks, well, like a hoop, not like a level jump. If he hesitates, walk over to the hoop slowly and allow him to walk through it a couple of times. Use food to encourage him.

After he successfully completes Step 5, you’re ready for the solo hoop.

6. Prop the hoop at floor level, encourage “Through” as you trot toward the hoop, and allow your puppy to go through alone.

Praise him and encourage him back through by running backward as you cheer.

7. Gradually raise the level of the hoop.

Tip

If you want to be really clever (and you have a puppy who won’t grow too big!), you can practice Through the Hoop with your encircled arms. Repeat the preceding steps with the assistance of a close friend, this time using your arms in place of the hoop.

Figure 22-3: Have your puppy jump through hoops for you for a change!

Ask Nicely

Remember

Good balance is a requirement for the Ask Nicely trick. You’re asking your puppy to tilt back from a sitting position and balance on his hind paws, like the old begging routine. (Unless your puppy is a natural, wait until your puppy is 9 months old before you teach this routine. You don’t want to put undo pressure on developing muscles and tissues.) Follow these steps to teach the Ask Nicely trick:

1. Break up five of your pup’s favorite treats.

2. With your pup in a sitting position, place a treat a few centimeters above his nose.

3. Direct “Ask Nicely” as you bring the treat back toward his ears.

If he tilts back for a split second, treat and praise him. Encourage the slightest effort initially, and then slowly increase your expectations.

If your puppy’s trying, but can’t seem to balance himself, stand behind him with your heels together near his tail. Draw the treat back and catch his chest, leaning his body against your legs. Repeat the direction, teaching him how to balance as you hold and treat him. Don’t forget to praise him.

Tip

For complicated tricks like this one, praise each step toward the goal. If at first your puppy tries to lean back, praise that. After leaning back becomes a snap, praise the next step your puppy attempts, such as lifting his paws off the ground.

Play Dead

I’ve always thought that the trick Play Dead was a little depressing. It’s clever, though, so I suggest switching the direction to something more creative like “chill, take a nap, or bang,” depending on the situation. This trick’s easy if you have a calm puppy, and it’s good practice for high-energy pups:

1. Direct “Down.” Encourage your puppy to rest on one side.

2. Kneel next to your pup, but don’t look at him. Then tap the floor near his head and say “Play Dead,” “Nap Time,” “Chill,” or “Bang.”

3. Gently apply pressure to his shoulder and help him rest his head on the floor.

4. Keep his head in place by stroking it gently while saying “Stay.”

After your pup cooperates, take your hand off his head slowly. Eventually, stand up. Make sure you do everything gradually, and remind him “Nap Time, Stay” as needed. Soon you’ll be able to drop the “Stay.”

Speak and Shhh!

If you’ve got a dog who loves to vocalize, this trick is a surefire guarantee. Not only can you teach him to bark on cue, you also can teach him the meaning of “Shhh,” and silence him cheerfully at a moment’s notice.

Consider for a moment how you might urge your dog to bark. Does he clamor if the doorbell rings, if you tease him with a toy, or if you play an instrument? Now follow these steps:

1. Organize this situation, and as he’s getting stimulated (see Figure 22-4a), get excited with him as you flash a snappy signal and say “Speak” (see Figure 22-4b).

2. Praise him for cooperating — even bark with him, especially if he seems confused.

3. Initially break his concentration with a toy, treat, or praise.

After you’re able to encourage him to bark without a stimulus, you’re ready for the second part of the equation, “Shhh!” Follow these steps:

1. Encourage him to bark. Praise him and bark along — make it a good old time.

2. Suddenly, stand tall and say “Shhh” as you wave your arm diagonally across your body up to your mouth (see Figure 22-4c).

He’s likely to be taken by surprise — and may step back too.

3. The instant he stops barking, treat him (preceding the food with a clicker if you’re using one) and praise him well.

Tip

You may also use a treat cup to encourage him to follow you simply by shaking the cup and running away from him the moment he quiets. This method is especially useful if your goal is to have him bark when people come or if he hears a noise.

Figure 22-4: Everyone loves a  dog whospeaks and quiets down on cue.

Sarah Hodgson

Bugged In and Bugged Out: Internal and External Parasites

 

In This Chapter

• Tackling your blood-sucking parasite problem
• Recognizing the signs and symptoms of internal parasites

Gee whiz. How can I make this chapter fun and entertaining? It’s a difficult task, considering that I’m completely bug phobic. Thinking about any bug — flea, worm, tick, or otherwise — nesting on or in my dog really gives me the creeps.

In this chapter, you find out more than you want to know about parasites, including how to recognize them. (A parasite is a creature that lives off of another animal. Parasites can feast on skin and blood, or they can leech off your puppy’s intestinal tract.) In addition, I discuss methods to annihilate these critters from your puppy’s body, and I offer some handy prevention tips.

You’re Buggin’ Me: Understanding External Parasites

External parasites live for blood — your dog’s, to be precise, although some settle for a human snack if the mood strikes them. The following sections go through these suckers (pun intended) one at a time.

Fleas

Fleas are an age-old problem, and they generally hang out in the lower portion of your puppy’s body, behind the shoulder blades.

Puppy hot spots Dogs can be allergic to flea saliva, a condition veterinarians call flea allergy dermatitis. The itching from this condition is so intense that it can lead to hair loss and self-mutilation. Sometimes the itching gets so bad that your dog creates a hot spot (officially known as acute pyoderma, which is not due to a single underlying cause), and a bacterial infection develops. Go to the doctor immediately and treat the problem before the condition gets any worse. If your puppy gets one, you’ll recognize it right away: A hot spot is a bright-red, hairless patch that looks scaly, and it may ooze pus if badly infected. It’s also painful and hot to the touch.

Tip

One surefire way to detect a problem is to buy a flea comb and brush your dog’s rear with it. If you pull out some “dirt,” put it on a paper towel and add a few drops of water. If the dirt turns a reddish color, you’re holding flea excrement. Oh joy.

Contrary to popular belief, fleas don’t live on dogs — they only feed on them. Fleas live in carpets and grass, so treating the problem involves all-out war.

Treating your puppy

Talk to your veterinarian about safe options for treating your puppy. Your vet may recommend collars, oil pouches, or other products during flea season. Be sure to use these remedies only as frequently as the label instructs.

Warning!

Don’t spray, rub, or squeeze flea prevention products near your dog’s face or bottom regions, because most products are toxic. Not all products are created equal. Pet stores sell many flea and tick preventions that aren’t as safe as some of the newer products. The flea product’s active ingredient and its mode of action are the most important things to know. Talk to your veterinarian first to discuss safe treatments.

Tip

Ask your vet about flea tablets or preventative powder. Although these remedies don’t take care of the fleas you have now, they do sterilize the fleas, putting a cramp in their reproductive cycles.

Treating your home and yard

Home isn’t so sweet when you share it with fleas. A full-blown flea infestation is like a scene from a horror show — bugs hopping onto your skin from every direction faster than you can bat them away. Treat your home the second you discover a flea problem. Following are some suggestions:

- Ask your veterinarian for advice. He will likely recommend two treatments repeated in ten days to two weeks in order to kill the pupae that have turned into adults. No flea treatment can kill flea pupae.

Tip

Talk about the pros and cons of different products. Select a product that treats all life stages and repeat the treatment as suggested. Don’t forget to check the flea product label to ensure that it’s EPA approved. Follow the label instructions for personal safety.

- Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. Not only do you pick up the adults, but you also scoop the eggs and larvae from their nests. Make sure you toss the bag after you vacuum, though — adult fleas are wonderful acrobats and may escape from the bag.

- Treat your dog’s bedding by washing it with an anti-flea detergent from the pet store or by simply throwing it out.

- Treat all rooms in your house with the recommended product and don’t forget to vacuum (but don’t suck up all the product you just applied — vacuum first). Fleas love to travel.

- Open all windows when you get home.

- Exterminate fleas in the yard. A good freeze usually takes care of them, but if you can’t wait — or if you have mild winters — talk to your veterinarian about your options. Your entire yard should be treated (it can get costly if you own a large parcel), and your dog should be kept from surrounding environments that may be infested.

Ticks

A tick is another blood-sucking parasite. Like fleas, ticks prefer furry creatures, but they settle for humans in a pinch. Unfortunately, ticks are found all over the world and can carry blood-borne diseases.

Technical Stuff

Ticks, like fleas, develop in stages: egg, larva, nymph, and adult. The eggs are laid in a damp, shady environment, and as ticks develop from stage to stage, they have several hosts and can pick up bacterial infections from any one of them.

Removing a tick

Ticks love to climb, so their favorite area is naturally around your puppy’s head. Removing a tick is no picnic. When ticks feed, they insert barbs into the skin like fish hooks. If you try to pull a tick out, you end up with a headless, blood-filled sac, and your puppy ends up with a nasty bump on her head.

To remove a tick, follow these steps:

1. Stun the tick for 30 seconds with a cotton ball soaked in mineral oil.

2. With special tick-removing tweezers you can buy from a pet store, press down on the skin on either side of the tick.

3. Squeeze the skin surrounding the tick tightly and grasp the head.

4. Lift up and out.

Warning!

This step can be painful, so you may want to give your puppy a spoonful of peanut butter or some biscuits while you take care of the removal business.

5. Dispose of the tick.

Tip

It’s hard to kill these (blood) suckers. They’re drown-proof, squish-proof, and squeeze-proof. I find the best way to kill ticks is to burn them or drop them into a jar of bleach, rubbing alcohol, or vodka (for lower toxicity). If you have children, keep the jar out of their reach.

6. Wash your hands when you’re done.

Deterring ticks in the first place

You can do a lot to prevent ticks from feasting on you and your puppy:

- Walk your puppy in the open sunshine. Walking in the sunshine is safer because most ticks prefer to hang out in shaded, woody areas instead.

- Inspect yourself and your puppy during and after every walk in the woods or a field. If you’re with a human partner, take turns looking each other over from head to toe. If traveling alone, bring a mirror. Ticks can latch on at any level — they fall from trees, attach to the undergrowth, and crawl on the ground. (How delightful!)

To check your puppy’s coat, run a flea comb (which you can purchase at any pet store) over her coat after every outing. Ticks take awhile to burrow, so a flea comb usually picks them up.

- Wear protective clothing. To protect yourself, wear light colors and tuck your pant legs into your socks. To protect your head, wear a cap.

- Speak to your veterinarian about recommending a good topical treatment to prevent ticks. Many products on the market are less toxic and highly effective tick repellants. With topical spot treatments, you put a drop of the product on the puppy’s skin; the repellent moves through the pup’s oil glands and hair follicles to cover the whole body.

If you prefer a spray repellent to a topical one, remember not to spray repellent around your puppy’s eyes. To treat her forehead and ears, place the product onto a glove and massage into those hard-to-reach areas. Don’t forget her paws.

Warning!

Tick products are toxic. To prevent your puppy from licking herself after treatment, keep her occupied with her favorite game until the product dries. Discuss safe treatments with your veterinarian.

The quick scoop on tick diseases Because ticks feast on blood from birds and others on up through the food chain, they often carry diseases. Here are the four most common: Rocky Mountain spotted fever: Ticks carrying this disease (Dermacentor ticks) are most common in the southeast United States. However, Rocky Mountain spotted fever has been diagnosed as far north as Long Island, New York. It causes failure of blood-clotting mechanisms, rash, fever, loose and bloody stools, bloody urine, nosebleeds, and respiratory difficulty. Canine ehrlichiosis: This nasty condition is transmitted by a brown dog tick (although deer ticks are also in question). Canine ehrlichiosis causes severe anemia, fever, bruises, and bleeding disorders by attacking the white blood cells. Canine babesiosis: This disease is more common in Europe than in the United States, though the number of cases in the Gulf states is growing. This organism attacks the red blood cells, causing severe anemia. Lyme disease (canine borreliosis): Lyme disease has spread to over 47 states. It can affect most mammals and is transmitted through the common deer tick. (Nearly 50 percent of all adult deer ticks carry the disease.) After the disease gets into your dog’s system (or yours, for that matter), it seeks out joints, causing painful inflammation, fever, loss of appetite, and lameness. Left untreated, your dog’s kidneys, heart, and neurological processes may be in danger. Your veterinarian can run a titer, which measures levels of antibodies or immunity, to determine whether your dog has been infected with any of these diseases and needs treatment.

Mites and mange

Mites and mange, which live on skin, hair, and blood, are quite content hanging around on or in the skin or coat of your puppy. Before treating for these parasites, make sure you get a diagnosis from your vet to ensure the treatment is parasite-specific (infections can cause some of the same symptoms).

Ear mites

Ear mites nestle in your dog’s ear and feed on the outer layer of skin. The first sign of ear mites is your puppy’s behavior — she’ll scratch her ear intently, shake her head, and walk funny. Why? Because these eight-legged buggers crawl into your puppy’s skin to reproduce.

Remember

You can check for ear mites by examining your dog’s ear canal. If the canal is filled with brown wax and is crusty around the edge, take your pup to the vet. Your veterinarian can determine whether it’s mites or another sort of infection and can quickly get your pup on the road to recovery. After your puppy gets a professional flushing from her doctor, you need to follow up with daily drops and cleaning procedures. (Check with your vet — some newer products need only one or two applications a month apart.)

Mange mites

Mange mites are nasty little creatures that are related to ear mites. However, they’re more free-ranging than ear mites and often localize along the spine, legs, head, or underside. Here are the three different types of mange mites (talk to your vet for a diagnosis and treatment):

- Cheyletiella or “walking dandruff”: These critters hang out along your puppy’s spine and create a lot of flaking as they munch the skin. The surest sign is intense scratching and nibble-biting along the spine.

- Demodectic mange: Demodex mites are usually transferred from a mother dog to her pups during nursing. Under normal conditions, these mites exist at a harmonious level. However, if a puppy gets stressed or is malnourished, they can multiply and create either a localized infection (the infected area loses hair and becomes itchy, red, and bald) or a widespread infection (creating large, inflamed, bald patches).

- Sarcoptic mange: Otherwise known as scabies, these crab-shaped bugs burrow into your puppy’s skin and tunnel around laying eggs and sipping blood. Their favorite spots are the head region, legs, and underside. The surest sign is a dog who literally can’t stop itching all over.

Remember

As much as you want to control your pup’s itch with anti-inflammatories, don’t. Anti-inflammatory drugs, such as cortisone, lower an already weak immune system.

Below the Surface: Internal Parasites

Internal parasites are much more of a health hazard to dogs than external parasites. These parasites are especially dangerous to puppies because they can really mess with the pup’s developing systems and can deplete the necessary balance of nutrients.

Warning!

If you have young children, take extra precaution with the internal parasites. Some of these parasites can be transmitted to humans. Walk your puppy in an area where your children don’t play and carry a poop bag for immediate cleanup. Enforce good hygiene habits with your children, too, encouraging them to wash their hands before they eat.

Heartworms

This nasty worm is transmitted by mosquitoes (and therefore is more prevalent in warmer climates) and lives in the chambers of the heart and in the lungs. If left untreated, heartworm disease is fatal. This disease is much better to prevent with medication than to cure after your puppy is affected.

Look into once-a-month preventative pills. These medications are prescribed according to weight. If you have a pup, be sure to ask your veterinarian how to accommodate for her growth. Though these pills are more expensive than daily pills, busy people often prefer them. They also have the added advantage of preventing and treating many common intestinal parasites.

Remember

Follow your veterinarian’s prescription. If he says to use the heartworm prevention year-round, you should do so. Also, you must still have an annual heartworm test done on your puppy because prevention doesn’t work 100 percent of the time.

Other internal critters

Following is a list of other nasty but fairly common internal parasites (see your vet for the diagnosis and treatment options):

- Coccidia lay their eggs in stools, and dogs become infected by eating other dogs’ stools. Intestines playing hotel to these creatures become inflamed, which leads to loose, watery stools; bloating; vomiting; weight loss; and strained elimination. Diagnosis and treatment is easy when the puppy’s mildly affected and the stool checked shows coccidian eggs; however, this isn’t always the case. If you suspect an imbalance in your puppy’s system, you may need to have her stool checked more than once because the adult parasite isn’t recognizable under the microscope. If the puppy has an extreme case, the procedure to eliminate the invader can be detailed and costly.

- Giardia are water-loving creatures found in most outdoor water sources, especially in warm climates. After being ingested, they feast on the inner lining of the small intestine, creating inflammation, which leads to loose, mucus-coated stools, bloating, and weight loss. These parasites are easy to detect, but early prognosis is key.

- Hookworms not only feed off your dog’s food but also suck her blood. Dogs pick up hookworms by eating an infected animal’s feces. A pup can become infected by nursing on her mom or coming in contact with worms that creep through her tender skin. Symptoms include bloating; excessive gas; smelly, loose stools; a skinny dog with a large appetite; bloody stools; a dry, brittle coat; and even severe anemia and death.

- Roundworms float inside a dog’s body — in the liver, through the heart, and into the lungs. In their final stage, roundworms settle in the small intestine, where they feast on your dog’s dinner. Many dogs who have a case of roundworms are plagued with an insatiable appetite or no appetite and vomiting, smelly diarrhea, gas, and bloating. Often, dogs with roundworms have a very pot-bellied appearance. Make an appointment with your vet if you suspect your dog has roundworms.

Technical Stuff

Puppies are infected with roundworms in utero or from nursing on an infected mom. Older dogs can become infected by ingesting roundworm eggs, which are shed in another dog’s stool and contaminate the environment, often surviving for years. Lovely.

- Tapeworms leave evidence when they inhabit your pooch. I remember once asking my brother why a piece of rice was crawling out my dog’s rear end. Turns out it wasn’t rice after all. It was a tapeworm. Yuck. Truth is, most people discover their dog is infected with tapeworms by using the “white rice” diagnosis. Other subtle signs include an increased appetite accompanied with weight loss, rectal itching, abdominal pain, and indigestion. Dogs pick up this parasite by eating fleas, which serve as the tapeworms’ intermediate hosts. See your vet if you, too, find “rice” in your puppy’s bedding or around her potty spot.

- Whipworms live and reproduce in a dog’s large intestine, causing inflammation and the following symptoms: bloating and cramps; bloody or mucus-coated stools; a dry, brittle coat; smelly diarrhea; and a major appetite. Also, some puppies may have vomiting, anemia, and/or no appetite. Dogs become infected with whipworms by eating worm-ridden stools (an especially popular activity among pups!) or by stepping in feces and licking their paws.

Warning!

Hookworms and roundworms aren’t strangers to humans. Children can fall victim to these parasites if their play area is frequented by free-ranging pets (cats as well as dogs). These parasites are usually transmitted in a fecal-oral fashion, but they can also enter through the skin. Plus, it’s not unheard of for a responsible owner to forget to wash his hands after cleaning up after his dog or for a child to play with dog poop. If you suspect you or a child has hookworms or roundworms, call your doctor immediately. To prevent these problems, clean up after your puppy, wash your hands after cleaning, and check your child’s play area twice a day. Have your pet routinely screened for intestinal parasites, and use monthly heartworm prevention that includes intestinal parasite control. Though not common, a roundworm infection in humans can cause blindness or neurological damage.

Sarah Hodgson

Preventative and Emergency Care

 

In This Chapter

• Keeping your puppy healthy with daily care, grooming, and regular checkups
• Relieving your puppy’s allergies
• Getting your puppy spayed or neutered
• Treating your pup in emergencies

In this chapter, I cover everything from how to gussy up your puppy to how to prevent illness through daily maintenance. Prevention really is worth a pound of cure. I also address how to handle emergencies and how to do CPR and artificial respiration on your puppy. Hopefully you won’t need this information, but do read it over just in case. Knowing how to handle situations from cuts and burns to skeletal injuries can save your pup’s life.

Staying on Top of Good Hygiene and Health

Staying on top of good health can prevent a lot of disease and heartache. One way to accomplish this task is to keep your dog clean and groomed. Not only does regular grooming make your puppy look and feel good, but it also helps you discover any ailments before they become serious. Brushes, nail clippers, toothpaste, cotton balls — these are just some of the items you may use to keep your puppy in tip-top shape. Of course, the other way to stay on top of your pup’s good health is to make sure you join forces with a caring vet who can help your puppy grow into a healthy adult dog. (For more on grooming as your pup grows up, check out Dog Grooming For Dummies, by Margaret H. Bonham [Wiley].)

Making bath time lots of fun

I remember dog baths back when I was a kid. I had a big Husky-Shepherd mix named Shawbee. To say she hated her bath is an understatement. She dug her heels in the minute we’d turn her down the hall. Restraining her in the tub was no picnic, either. Four hands had to be on her or else she was hall-bound, shaking suds as she ran down the stairs and out the door. It was quite entertaining.

Tip

Here’s a way to prevent this scenario of having your dog bolt during bath time: Make “Tub” a direction and practice tub exercises long before you give your puppy a bath. The trick works so well that your puppy may start jumping into the tub on command. Use the following steps:

1. Say “Tub,” run to the tub, and treat your puppy (without actually putting him in). Repeat often.

2. Next, lay a towel on the bottom of the tub for traction, place some toys around it, and rub a tasty spread (like peanut butter) onto the basin at your puppy’s nose level to keep him content and occupied.

You’re doing a practice run without water.

3. Help your puppy into the tub, play for five minutes, and then take him out.

While sitting on the tub’s edge, love on him and treat him calmly. Remember that at this step you have no bath and no water.

4. Repeat Step 3 until your puppy looks forward to tub togetherness.

5. Next, run the water as you’re playing but let it drain (don’t fill the tub).

6. After your puppy allows the water to run while he’s in the tub, let the tub fill to hock (ankle) depth.

If your dog squirms, stop the water, sing softly, and offer some treats as you scratch his back lovingly.

7. Proceed gradually until you’re able to fill the tub and bathe peacefully (see Figure 20-1).

Figure 20-1: This puppy loves bath time.

I know these steps sound extensive, but think of it as one week’s adventure. After all, it’s a training exercise — and a relatively small effort for a lifetime of easy bathing.

Remember

Stick with one bath a month at the most. The reason? Dogs don’t have pores to produce oil. If you bathe them constantly, their coats become dry, dull, brittle, and full of dandruff.

Brushing made easy

Grooming can be a complete nightmare or a delightful, interactive time with your dog. Whether grooming is a chore or a treat is determined in puppyhood. Keep the first brushing episodes fun, and always end on a positive note by giving your pup a treat or his favorite toy.

Tip

Following are some suggestions to make your puppy’s first associations with grooming pleasant ones:

- Use a soft-bristle human or puppy brush. You can eventually work toward using the brush of your choice, but for now, avoid the wirebristled brush. Also keep in mind that as your puppy matures, he’ll shed his puppy coat and will require a more sophisticated brushing tool. To discover which brush is best for your pup’s needs, speak to a groomer or pet-store professional.

- Spread peanut butter or chicken broth in your puppy’s food bowl or provide a delectable chew for distraction. Show your puppy the seasoned bowl when he’s in a quiet mood, and as he enjoys the diversion, softly draw the brush over his body.

If you follow the preceding suggestions, your puppy will take the experience in stride, and soon you’ll both be looking forward to the time together.

Warning!

If your puppy growls fiercely at any point while you’re brushing him, stop everything and call a professional right away.

Performing daily care and spot-checks

Remember

Any mindful puppy owner knows that a puppy can’t articulate discomfort or dismay. Establishing daily routine checkups not only conditions your puppy to handling but also keeps you aware of anything that runs amiss.

Eyes

Soulful, sweet, comic — your puppy’s eyes express it all. It’s up to you to keep them healthy, bright, and clear. If you notice that your puppy’s eyes are tearful, full of mucus, swollen, or itchy, see your veterinarian. Your puppy could be suffering from conjunctivitis (which is very contagious to other dogs), a cold, an internal parasite, or an allergy.

Your puppy has a third eyelid. If you lift the lower lid carefully, you see a pinkish lid that closes independently. This lid protects your puppy’s eye from dust and other particles that are picked up near the ground. This third lid can become infected, so note its healthy color and take your puppy to the veterinarian if you notice it becoming inflamed.

Tip

If your veterinarian prescribes eye medication, administer it carefully by swiping something tasty on the refrigerator (peanut butter or broth) at a 30-degree angle above your dog’s eye level. Stand behind your dog or to his side and pull back the upper lid until you see the white of your dog’s eye; carefully drop in the medication.

Ears

Different dogs require different cleaning schedules ranging from every couple weeks to daily. As a general rule, floppy ears require more care than uprights because of limited air circulation. If you have a hairy-eared breed, you may be instructed to pluck the hair out of the way because excess hair can trap wax and make one big mess that cries out for parasites. Talk to your veterinarian or groomer for personal instructions. (Refer to Chapter Bugged In and Bugged Out: Internal and External Parasites for information regarding ear mites.)

Following is some general information about caring for your puppy’s ears:

- Clean the outer ear flap. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a commercial ear solution that helps prevent infection. Using a cotton ball soaked in the solution, swipe the outer flap. Use caution when cleaning because the ear is very tender and going in too deep can be painful. Repeat this process until the cotton comes up clean.

Warning!

Don’t use cotton swabs or poke into your puppy’s ear canal. You can cause irreparable damage by doing so.

- Prevent water from entering the ear. If you’re bathing your pup, put a cotton ball in the opening ahead of time and wipe the ears out with a dry cotton ball when you’re finished.

Remember

Ear infections are quite common. Signs of infection include a red or swollen ear, discharge, head shaking, ear itching, or bad odor. If you notice any of these symptoms, get your puppy to his doctor immediately. Left untreated, infections can cause fever, depression, irritability, and loss of balance. Your veterinarian may prescribe an ointment that you administer at home. Here’s how to use it:

1. Wait until your dog’s a little sleepy.

2. Bring him to the refrigerator and swipe some peanut butter or broth at his eye level.

3. As he’s licking the refrigerator, gently squeeze the amount of ointment specified by your veterinarian into his ear canal.

4. Massage his ear as you praise him warmly.

Taking your puppy’s temperature Now here’s a fun activity your whole family will enjoy. Okay, maybe not. With all the technological improvements of late, your puppy will still have to endure the old thermometer-in-thebottom style of preventative care. It’s best to occupy his mouth with something tasty (peanut butter or treats top my dog Whoopsie’s list) while you dip a rectal thermometer in petroleum jelly and slide it in. The time varies on the individual thermometer: Read the instructions for use. Note that a resting dog’s temperature is between 100.5 degrees and 102.5 degrees, which is much warmer than the 98.6-degree normal for humans. A good idea is to take your puppy’s temperature when he’s well so you can gauge an illness when symptoms show.

Nose

There’s not too much to say about the nose, though it is helpful for tipping you off to the fact that your puppy’s not feeling well. A warm nose can be caused by an elevated temperature (see the sidebar “Taking your puppy’s temperature”). However, weather conditions also can lead to dryness or fluctuation in temperature. If you suspect your puppy has a fever, touch his other body areas without fur (belly, paws, or the inside of his ears) or take his temperature. Did I mention you have to do that rectally? What fun!

Remember

Dogs’ noses can become discolored. One potential cause is the sun. When your puppy hangs in the sun, protect his nose with a sunblock with an SPF of 45. Another reason a pup’s nose may become discolored is an allergic reaction to a plastic food dish or household detergent. In such cases, use stainless-steel bowls for your dog’s dishes, and clean with environmentally safe products.

Mouth

You must take care of your puppy’s teeth. Though dogs are less prone to tartar buildup than humans are, they’re not immune, and poor dental hygiene can also lead to heart disease and kidney disease.

Sure, dogs have more-concentrated saliva and they chew bones and things, but these preventatives don’t take the place of dental care. Without a little help from friends (that means you!), your pup may suffer from tooth decay, cavities, abscesses, periodontal disease, and tooth loss. To keep your puppy’s teeth healthy:

- Include dry food in your puppy’s diet. The saliva involved in chewing kibble helps clean your puppy’s teeth.

- Start brushing your puppy’s teeth once a week. Use special dog toothpaste instead of human toothpaste because fluoride and dogs don’t mix. If your dog is adverse to the brush, use your finger or a finger brush. If your dog growls at you, quit immediately and call a professional.

Tip

If you have a young puppy, acquaint him with this procedure early on. Rub your fingers along his gums throughout the week and praise him calmly as you brush.

- As your dog gets older, you may opt for professional cleaning. To clean your dog’s teeth, your veterinarian needs to anesthetize him. Then she scales each tooth separately and finishes with polishing.

Some puppies put up an enormous struggle when getting their teeth brushed. For these critters, your veterinarian may suggest an oral spray that breaks down tartar.

Nails

If your puppy’s nails grow too long, they can force his foot out of position, and the nails can crack or break if they catch on something. To keep your pup’s nails healthy, you need to clip them about once a month.

Tip

The best kind of clipper looks like a guillotine. Seriously. I can’t explain it any better than that. This clipper is ideal because it isolates the nail and steadies your cut. Ask your veterinarian or groomer or pet-store employee about this tool.

When clipping your puppy’s nail, you want to clip the very tip, just at the point it starts to curl (see Figure 20-2). You may notice that your pup’s front nails grow faster than the hind ones due to the amount of surface he exercises on. If your dog has dewclaw (a nail that rides high on the back or front paw), don’t forget to trim it.

Figure 20-2: Clip the nail at the tip where the point starts to curl.

If you’re reading this section before you’ve had the chance to cut your dog’s nails, consider yourself blessed. To avoid having a clipper-phobic dog, make paw handling part of every positive interaction, from petting to treating, by following these steps:

1. Initially, just handle your puppy’s paws — nothing fancy.

If you’re in the car and come to a red light, turn to your puppy, handle his paws, and tell him “Good boy.” Have as much hand-on-paw contact as possible for a week or two. Perform no clipping at this step.

2. Next, take out your peanut butter (or broth) and swipe some across the refrigerator at your dog’s eye level. As he licks, rub his paws with the clipper.

Don’t cut the nails just yet. Open and shut the clippers to acquaint him with the sound.

3. Now try one cut — just one. Place the edge of the clippers over the top of the nail and squeeze the handle quickly.

White nails show the nail bed, which you must avoid. If your puppy has dark nails, you need to take extra precaution. If you’re concerned, ask your veterinarian or groomer to give you a lesson.

4. The next day, try two nails and then three.

Remember

Don’t correct your dog if he protests. Be understanding and slow down. Again, nail clipping sounds like a production, but in the long run, you’ll be glad you took the time to do it right. Anyone who has cut her dog or frightened him by being too rough can tell you that having a clipper-phobic dog is a nightmare.

Warning!

God forbid you cut into your puppy’s quick (the tissue part of the nail). Aside from being excruciatingly painful, the cut will bleed for hours because the quick has lots of veins. To prevent excess bleeding, purchase a clotting solution like styptic powder from your veterinarian. It works like magic.

An Apple a Day: Taking Your Pup for Regular Checkups

Puppies, like kids, need vaccinations and regular checkups. After you’ve found a veterinarian you’re comfortable with, get out your appointment book and schedule regular visits to ensure that your puppy gets all the protection he needs.

First vaccines should be given as the puppies are weaned off their mother’s milk. Unless a puppy is orphaned, which would require more medical intervention, a puppy’s first vaccine should begin at six weeks. If a series is recommended, follow-up shots are given two to three weeks later. These shots are called boosters. After the puppy reaches doghood, vaccines generally need to be given annually.

Warning!

Vaccines aren’t guaranteed 100 percent. Some dogs are allergic to them. In others, antibodies don’t build up enough of a defense. Postvaccine illnesses are tragic. Keep your puppy at the animal hospital for 30 minutes after he receives his initial vaccines, and find out the signs and symptoms of each illness so you can recognize them.

When possible, spread the vaccines out so that your puppy isn’t exposed to many on the same day. This plan may cost you a little more in veterinarian visits, but in the long run it may prevent your pup from having an adverse reaction.

Achoo! Dealing with Allergies

Dogs with allergies suffer from swollen paws, itchy skin or gums, sneezing, and eczema. The worst part is that dogs can’t articulate what’s wrong, so pinning down the culprit is difficult. Canine allergens include wool, dust, molds, pollen, cedar chips, propylene glycol (a rawhide treat preservative), pesticide chemicals, house and garden plants, weeds, and food products. If you suspect your dog has allergies, talk to your veterinarian. She can test to determine what’s bugging your puppy and can give him medication to relieve his symptoms.

Tip

Here’s a checklist to follow if you suspect your puppy suffers from allergies, noting all seasonal and environmental changes:

- Use detergent soap designed for babies’ diapers when washing your puppy’s bedding.

- Check out the sprays used in your home, yard, and garden. Don’t use any products toxic to your pet. Imidacloprid and fipronil are nontoxic.

- Because many dogs are allergic to commercial disinfectants, use bleach and water (1⁄4 cup of bleach per gallon of water) to clean your dog’s areas.

- Don’t overuse cleaning or parasite products. Flea sprays, powders, and dips can be very toxic.

Remember

Many dogs also have or over time acquire food allergies. Corn and wheat are common culprits, but your puppy may also be sensitive to the base meat in his food. If you suspect a food allergy, speak to your veterinarian. She’ll likely suggest a dietary change and may want to narrow your pup’s diet fundamentally to pinpoint the cause.

Spaying or Neutering Your Puppy

A female dog is prevented from reproducing by an operation commonly called spaying. Her ovaries (the egg-producing sacs) are removed. This operation requires that your gal be anesthetized, and recovery takes 5 to 14 days. A male dog is prevented from fathering puppies through an operation called castration, or neutering. Basically, his testicles are removed from a small incision and his sac’s sewn up before you can say “Boo.” Your dog is anesthetized for the procedure and is back on his feet in 5 to 10 days.

If you’re not planning to breed your dog, have your dog spayed or neutered. Here’s my argument for why you should spay or neuter your pup: Dogs have three needs. They need to eat. If humans didn’t feed them, they would hunt and kill for survival. They need shelter. If humans didn’t provide shelter, they’d need to find it. Finally, they need to reproduce. Hormonal drives can override all else. A dog will leave the warm, safe perimeters of home to go out and look for a mate. This could lead to catastrophe and bring about great frustration if you were to place your dog under lock and key. Think about telling a human child he or she could never leave home and find a mate!

I’ve loved every dog who lived under my roof, but none were intended for show or breeding, and consequently all were either spayed or neutered. It didn’t change their personalities, and they didn’t get fat. Trust me: Altering isn’t like a lobotomy — it simply removes the need to scope out and fight for mates. Here’s a list of some other, more scientific arguments for altering your dog:

- According to the book titled The Adoption Option (Howell), approximately 4 million to 6 million dogs are euthanized in animal shelters each year. Don’t add to the problem. If you’re not breeding your dog responsibly, have him or her altered.

- Having your dog fixed reduces the chance of breast, ovarian, uterine, and cervical cancer in females and testicular cancer and prostate infection in males.

- Male dogs are less likely to mark your home or fight with other male dogs and are more likely to stay close to home when they’re neutered.

Remember

If you adopt your puppy from a shelter, you may be required to neuter him. Some shelters offer to do the procedure for you, and others direct you to a low-cost facility. Altering can cost anywhere from $50 to $250, depending on the individual dog’s sex and health.

Accidents Happen: Preventing and Treating Puppy Mishaps

Nobody wants an accident to happen, and no one wants to see his puppy get hit or cut, be poisoned, or suffer from the heat. But things can happen, and you need to be prepared. Knowing what steps to take before you get your puppy to the animal hospital can save his life. This section covers the steps you need to follow in an emergency. Remember, though, that none of the suggestions in this section take the place of seeing your veterinarian immediately.

Knowing how to puppy proof your home

Puppies are insatiably curious creatures. Take a look at your house from your puppy’s point of view: “Plants, cords, and dropped items get a giant reaction from my parents if they’re within hearing distance. What fun!”

Remember

Try to prevent as many emergencies as possible by puppy proofing your home and restricting your puppy’s freedom to enclosed or puppy-proofed environments.

Hunting for household dangers

Walk (or better yet, crawl) around your house and look at it from your puppy’s perspective. What looks tempting? You can use duct tape to secure wires, and you can clean off coffee tables and clear bookshelves for the time being. I know that you don’t want to rearrange your living space, but remember that puppies are like babies: They get into everything for the sheer fun of discovering something new.

Hanging there like a snake, an electrical cord or a telephone wire can be quite tempting to attack and chew. The damage can range from a sharp to lethal shock or a mild to third-degree burn. If you notice a severed cord, check your puppy’s mouth for burns (and then see “Treating burns,” later in this chapter).

Tip

Prevent lamp-cord electrocution! Tape all cords hanging 4 feet from the ground to the wall, and pin floor cords to the baseboard. Also, keep a bottle of Bitter Apple spray handy, and each time you see your puppy nosing a wire, spray it immediately.

Taking care of small indigestibles

Though it may seem odd to you, some puppies love to swallow what they chew — especially if you’re trying to take the object away from them forcefully (this behavior is known as prize envy). The problem is that not all things pass through a puppy’s intestines. Some get stuck there, initially causing vomiting, gagging, dry heaves, and coughing, which can go on for days. If that’s not cause enough for alarm, the puppy’s loss of appetite will be. If the intestine is blocked and nothing is done to remove the obstruction, the intestine ruptures, which can be a fatal condition.

Treatment depends on how soon you get your puppy to the veterinarian. That’s because you don’t know whether the object is sharp or could break (thereby rupturing the intestines), if it’s small and likely to pass, or if it’s large enough to block digestion. Unless your veterinarian can induce your puppy to vomit the object up (which she may or may not be willing to do to guard your dog’s safety), an X-ray will be needed to identify what he swallowed. To remove the foreign object, the doctor may order surgery.

Keeping poison control numbers on hand

Put all dangerous substances out of the reach of your pet, just as you’d put them out of the reach of children.

Remember

You can call the 24-hour National Animal Poison Control Center if your puppy has swallowed something poisonous: 900-680-0000. (Because this is a 900 number, your phone bill will be charged or they will ask for a credit card. However, their immediate and professional assistance is worth a pot of gold when your puppy is in distress!) Keep the label of the ingested matter on hand or describe what was swallowed; the operator is trained to talk you through the incident, translate symptoms, and tell you exactly how to handle each incident.

Also keep your veterinarian’s number on hand (or in speed dial) and phone her immediately after an accident. Even if your dog seems okay, it’s good to speak with your veterinarian and discuss the issue and possible preventative tips. Additionally, have a backup plan if your veterinarian is out of the office or on vacation. Ask her to recommend a respected clinic for emergencies.

Avoiding poisonous plants

Inside or out, plants can entertain your puppy for hours. However, not all plants are dog-friendly. In fact, some are deadly. Check out the Cheat Sheet for a list of harmful plants.

Warning!

If your puppy is carrying a plant in his mouth, don’t race toward him. If you do, he perceives your actions as prize envy and may gulp the evidence. Approach calmly and stare at the floor, not into his eyes.

Puppy first aid 101: Knowing the basics

If your puppy has an accident, stay cool. If you lose it, he’ll get nervous and go to pieces. Be a rock of confidence. Be mentally tough. Organize. Think. If necessary, get him to the hospital as quickly and efficiently as possible. If you’ve prepared, you’ll be fine.

Restraining a hurt pup

Remember

Even the most beloved pet may bite when he’s in pain or confused. If he doesn’t bite you, he may go for the vet or one of the technicians, so restrain your puppy for their sakes. The simplest restraining technique requires a bandana or a rope (the bandana is more comfortable).

To restrain your puppy, follow these steps:

1. Fold a bandana into a long band.

2. Drape the center of the band across the top of your dog’s nose.

3. Cross the two ends underneath your dog’s chin.

4. Tie the ends securely behind your dog’s ears.

5. Check the crossing point underneath.

If the crossing point is too loose, your dog may paw it off; if it’s too tight, you may choke him.

Transporting a hurt pup

Transporting a dog who has internal injuries is tricky business. He’ll be restless and want to move. It’s your job to make sure he doesn’t. If you suspect a broken bone, spinal injury, or internal bleeding, transport your puppy on a firm surface, such as metal or plywood. Otherwise, placing your puppy on a sheet or towel is acceptable. Don’t cover his face or he may panic.

Tip

Be ready for an emergency anytime by having a dog-sized board in your home or garage.

Remember

Puppies can’t articulate pain. They can’t intellectualize it, meditate on it, or separate themselves from it. Pain is pain. It’s an intense feeling and a state of being. Pain puts dogs in a vulnerable state. It confuses their thought process and their physical organization. Their only drive is to protect themselves and alleviate their distress. Add that state of mind to your puppy’s natural temperament, and what you get is a fairly unpredictable reaction. Though dogs experience pain in the same way, they deal with it differently.

Helping a choking pup

Choking usually occurs when your puppy is chewing or playing with a toy and is suddenly challenged, is startled, or takes a deep breath. If you’re not around or you don’t react quickly, choking could be fatal. One way to prevent choking in the first place is to think smart: Don’t give your puppy toys that are smaller than his face.

If your puppy chokes on something, stay calm and focused while following these steps:

1. Bring your puppy into a standing position, even if someone must hold him there.

2. Try to reach in and dislodge the object.

Warning!

Be careful — you could jam the object in farther or get bitten if your dog’s panicking.

3. If you can’t dislodge the object, try a modified version of the Heimlich maneuver.

If your puppy is able to stand, clasp your hands together underneath him and pull up into his abdomen — just behind the sternum. Repeat this action five times vigorously.

If he’s unable to stand or is wiggling, steady him into an upright position and continue as described before.

4. If all else fails, get your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Performing artificial respiration and CPR

Remember

As horrible as it is to see your puppy lying there after a fire or a car accident or after choking, ingesting poison, or being electrocuted, it may not be too late to save him. So be quick, stay calm, and think clearly when performing the following steps for performing artificial respiration:

1. Check for a heartbeat and breathing.

If your pup’s heart is beating but he isn’t breathing, proceed to the next step. If you also don’t feel a pulse, see the instructions that follow for administering CPR.

2. Check for any obstructions in the mouth and clear his mouth of any blood or mucus.

3. Pull his tongue out to make sure the airway is clear.

4. Shut his mouth gently.

5. Pull his lips over his mouth and secure them by wrapping one hand under his chin.

For breeds that have pushed-in noses, wrap your mouth around the nose.

6. Create an airtight funnel to his nose with your free hand.

7. Inhale, and then exhale air smoothly into your puppy’s nose.

8. Repeat every five to six seconds.

If you can’t feel your puppy’s heartbeat, you must pump his heart for him by performing CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation), which means doing chest compressions in addition to the artificial breathing method described earlier. To give CPR, follow these steps:

1. If you have a large pup, lay him on his right side. If you have a small pup, place a hand on either side of his chest.

2. Compress the heart area of the chest in short bursts, one compression per second.

3. Exercise one breath every six seconds.

You’ll know when you’ve saved your dog because he’ll come back to life.

Stopping your pup’s bleeding

Bleeding comes in three forms:

- The everyday cut and scrape: This injury is no big deal. Twice a day, wipe the area with hydrogen peroxide to keep it safe from infection, and it should heal just fine.

- A continuous or oozing stream: This type of bleeding requires medical attention immediately. Raise the body part above the heart if possible and apply bandages one on top of the other to soak the blood as you press down on the area to slow the flow.

- A gushing spurt and flow: This type of bleeding is serious — very serious. Your puppy can go into shock quickly and die if he loses too much blood. Place bandage on top of bandage, elevate the limb if possible, and put constant pressure on the incoming artery. Drive to the nearest animal hospital.

Warning!

If you suspect internal bleeding, get your puppy to a hospital immediately. Internal bleeding is a life-threatening situation. White gums, a distended abdomen, a bloody cough, or vomiting spells are indications of internal bleeding.

Tip

Find your puppy’s pressure points. While he’s sleeping, feel for the pulse near the hip and elbow joints. These arteries regulate blood flow, and in an emergency, you can press them to slow it down. You can also use ice packs to slow the flow of blood from oozing cuts and scrapes.

Treating bug bites and stings

Most bug bites are no more of an annoyance for a dog than they are for us. A bump, scratch, and a bit of swelling won’t alter the day too dramatically. However, if a dog is allergic to the bite or sting, the reaction can be severe or even life-threatening. Symptoms of an allergy include facial swelling, hives, fever, joint pain, muscle ache, swelling, vomiting, and diarrhea.

Warning!

A severely allergic dog goes into respiratory failure, which can be fatal within minutes. This reaction is called anaphylaxis and requires immediate veterinary attention. If you know your puppy is sensitive to insect bites, ask your veterinarian to prescribe a bee sting kit that can counteract the reaction in an emergency.

Treating snake bites

Although most snakes issue pressure bites when they feel threatened, most bites aren’t poisonous. How can you tell? Poisonous snakes have fangs that make holes in the skin. Here are some other general guidelines for telling whether a snake is dangerous:

- Most native North American snakes that are solid colored or have stripes running the length of the body are nonvenomous.

- Be careful of snakes with diamond backs, stripes running around the body, or those with blotch patterns. In North America, poisonous snakes include rattlesnakes, water moccasins, cottonmouths, coral snakes, and copperheads.

A puppy who tangles with a poisonous snake usually doesn’t have long to live. The first thing that happens physically is he swells up like a balloon. Then, within hours, he’ll go into seizures, fall into a coma, and most likely die.

Remember

If your puppy is bitten by a poisonous snake, get him to his veterinarian immediately, phoning her as you’re en route so that she may prepare an antidote.

Treating burns

Curiosity strikes again. Puppies can get burned from a variety of chemicals and household appliances.

Your reaction should be calm and immediate when treating burns. Here are some things to keep in mind:

- Take your puppy to a quiet area and calm him.

- Steadily pour cool water over the area. If it’s a chemical burn, continue to pour water on the burn for five to ten minutes.

- If the burn is superficial, keep it clean and rub it with an antibacterial ointment twice a day. More-serious burns demand immediate medical attention.

Tip

If your puppy gets burned by chewing on electrical cords and is in pain, apply ice to the burns and give him ice water. Then take him to his veterinarian, who may prescribe antibiotic oral gel to prevent infection and may recommend a dietary change until his mouth is back to normal.

Treating and preventing heatstroke

Because dogs don’t have pores, they can’t sweat. The only way they can release heat is through the pads in their feet and by panting. Dogs can suffer from heatstroke if left in poorly ventilated areas, such as a car or kennel, or if tied out or overexercised on a humid day. If you notice that your puppy has shallow breathing, a rapid heart rate, and a high temperature, cool your puppy gradually with wet towels, a cool bath, or ice around his neck, head, and groin. After cooling him off, take him to the veterinarian.

Remember

Heatstroke is preventable. Never leave your puppy in a poorly ventilated environment, and make sure water is always available on warm days. If an emergency necessitates leaving your puppy in the car, contain him in a kennel or seat-belt harness and leave the car running with the air conditioning on and doors locked. For cases like these, keep an extra set of keys in the glove compartment to take with you so you can get back in your locked car.

The best solution is never to take your puppy with you on hot days. A car, even with all the windows down, can overheat within an hour. What a horrible way for a dog to die — locked in a hot automobile just wanting and waiting for his caretaker to come back.

Sarah Hodgson