Thứ Ba, 9 tháng 1, 2018

Not Just for Purebreds: Showing Off with Your Mixed Breed

 In This Chapter
  • Competing in performance trials
  • Making your dog a star
Your dog doesn’t have to be pedigreed to compete in shows or participate in fun activities. In this chapter, I introduce you to the world of obedience shows, agility trials, and Rally-O. I also let you know how you can get your mixed breed into commercials, TV, and movies. If you and your dog are looking to take “play” to the next level, this is the chapter for you!

Participating in a Mixed-Breed Dog Club


Just because your dog didn’t come to you with a pedigree doesn’t mean you can’t participate in any number of performance exhibitions. Your dog’s performance has nothing to do with her appearance and everything to do with the work you put into her.
Tip
Two of the largest clubs offering many show opportunities are the Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America (www.mbdca.org) and the United Kennel Club (www.ukcdogs.com). The UKC is actually a club for purebred dogs, including rare breeds, but it allows mixedbreed dogs to compete in their performance activities. The clubs will inform you of trial dates, but you need to work with a professional dog trainer or local dog training club to learn how to teach your dog to perform in obedience trials.

Competing in obedience matches and dog shows


You and your dog can compete in obedience matches and/or trials at dog shows. The difference between a match and a trial is that the match is a practice run — a place where you can test your and your dog’s skills prior to entering a trial and working toward an obedience certificate. In a match, you can repeat an exercise or guide your dog into performing correctly, and the judge will give you advice on how to get your dog to achieve a better performance. In a trial, you cannot do these things. You and your dog will be judged — period.
Tip
I recommend achieving good scores in a match before attempting to perform at a trial. That way you can iron out the kinks and keep the entire experience positive for your dog, because there’s no need to stress over getting something wrong at the match.
There are three main levels in the obedience ring. Each level has its own series of behaviors for your dog to perform. Here’s a list of the classes, from easiest to hardest:
- Novice: In the Novice class, you and your dog will try to complete the following behaviors:
  • Heeling on and off-leash
  • Figure-8, on leash, around two people standing 8 feet apart
  • Stand and Stay with the judge touching the dog as you remain 6 feet in front of the dog, with the dog off-leash
  • Stay from 30 feet away
  • Recall from 30 feet away
  • Finish after the Recall
  • One-minute Sit/Stay side by side with up to 12 other dogs and handlers 30 feet away
  • Three-minute down/stay side by side with up to 12 others dogs and handlers 30 feet away
    - Open: In the Open class, you and your dog will try to complete the following behaviors:
    • Off-leash heeling pattern
    • Off-leash figure-8 around two people standing 8 feet apart
    • Drop on Recall
    • Retrieve on the flat
    • Retrieve over a high jump (11⁄2 times the height of your dog at the shoulders)
    • Send over a broad jump (2 times the height of your dog at the shoulders)
    • Three-minute sit/stay side by side with other dogs and the handler out of sight
    • Five-minute down/stay side by side with other dogs and the handler out of sight
    - Utility: In the Utility class, you and your dog will try to complete the following behaviors:
    • Off-leash heeling pattern using only visual cues, no voice at all
    • Stop and stand, using visual cues and move over 20 feet away, faced away from dog
    • Call dog to heel position while standing still
    • Directed Retrieve: Retrieving a specific item (usually white gloves) out of three identical items
    • Scent discrimination: Retrieving both a leather and metal article, bearing your scent, from other identical articles
    • Directed Go Out: Leaving your side, running to the opposite end of the ring, and turning and sitting until you direct the next exercise
    • Directed Jump: As the dog remains across the ring, you direct the dog to one of two jumps — a bar jump or high jump — repeat the Go Out again, and direct the dog to the other jump (at the judges’ prompt)
    Also, in a match there are non-regular classes that are both fun and a stepping-stone between different levels:
    - Sub-Novice: This is a starter class in which you can keep your leash on your dog so that if the dog becomes distracted while performing, she won’t be able to run off.
    - Graduate Novice: This is a tweener class between Novice and Open. It has exercises from both classes, preparing you for the challenges you’d see in Open, while still allowing you to work on perfecting some of the exercises done in the Novice class.
    I’ve had lots of success with these non-regular classes — they gave me and my dog the confidence to continue to the next level.
    Technical Stuff
    There are three main obedience titles to strive for. To earn these titles you must qualify with a score of 170 out of a possible 200 at three different shows with three different judges. The titles are: Novice class–Companion Dog (CD); Open class–Companion Dog Excellent (CDX), and Utility Dog (UD). You can also work toward championships (Obedience Trail Champion [OTCH]), high in trials, and other awards though you can count on it taking years to reach these goals. Of course, that’s years of fun (and hard work) for you and your dog!

    Competing in agility


    Agility is quickly becoming the most popular canine event in the United States and in some areas around the world. Dogs love performing, and people love to watch them. Any dog of any size or breed can compete, and some clubs allow mixed-breed dogs to compete.

    Agility was modeled on equestrian stadium jumping, with a variety of obstacles that have both spectator appeal and the intention of displaying the dog’s agile nature. In this sport, the dog must negotiate a number of obstacles, off leash, within an allotted time frame.

    The courses consist of jumps, tunnels, a pause table, weave poles, an A-frame, a seesaw, a dog walk, and more — each challenging the dog in different ways. You must be adept at directing the dog from obstacle to obstacle without getting in the dog’s path.

    Agility is a timed speed event, but the dog must also perform with precision. She has to touch the contact obstacle (A-frame, seesaw, or dog walk) at specific points both getting on and off, not knock down the poles while jumping or weaving, and execute the obstacles in the right order.

    You can find out more about agility competitions by contacting the following organizations:
    - United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA), phone: 972-487-2200, Web: www.usdaa.com
    - Agility Association of Canada (AAC), phone: 519-657-7636, Web: www.aac.ca
    - North American Dog Agility Council (NADAC), phone: 208-689-3803, Web: www.nadac.com
    - Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA), phone: 409-778-1082, Web: www.asca.org
    - American Kennel Club (AKC), phone: 919-233-9767, e-mail: info@akc.org
    - United Kennel Club (UKC), phone: 616-343-9020, Web: www.ukcdogs.com
    - Canine Performance Events (CPE), Web: www.k9cpe.com

    Competing in Rally-O


    Rally-O (short for Rally Obedience) was derived from obedience trials, but it offers a more enjoyable means of competing with your dog because you’re allowed to use praise as a means of reinforcement while you guide your dog through the stations throughout the course. It’s gaining in popularity by leaps and bounds!

    As in agility, Rally-O is a timed event. It includes 12 to 20 stations where you and your dog must perform different skills. There are three levels to achieve in Rally-O:
    - Novice: This level is on-leash with exercises that demonstrate the dog’s understanding of basic commands: Sit, Stay, Down, Come, and Heel.
    - Advanced: This level is made up of a set of exercises where the dog performs off-leash and includes at least one jump.
    - Excellent: This level is a difficult off-leash course that includes at least one jump and demonstrates more precise skill coordination than in the Advanced level.
    The course is different at each show, with the layout posted at the ringside and handed out so you can learn the progression of the exercises. Often, you can also walk the courses prior to the start of class, because knowing where to turn and when to turn makes a big difference in your overall performance.

    Signs are posted for each station, which give instructions that you and your dog must execute within 2 to 4 feet of the sign. After the judge tells you and your dog to go forward, you complete the course on your own without additional commands from the judge. Although you can use voice guidance and your hands to give signals to your dog, you can’t use food or toys in the ring, and you can’t place your hands on your dog or physically touch her.

    This sport is great for dogs who are bored by the stop-and-go routines in the obedience ring. Many dog clubs now offer Rally-O at their obedience trials, giving you more competitions to participate in at a show.
    Tip
    You can find a complete description of Rally-O on the AKC Web site (www.akc.org) and at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) Web site (www.apdt.com) at www.akc.org/pdfs/rulebooks/RO2999.pdf. You can find station signs for all three levels at www.akc.org/pdfs/rulebooks/ROR999.pdf.

    Media Hound: Getting Your Dog on Camera


    I’ve been providing animals for film and TV production work since 1983. It’s one of the most enjoyable activities that I do with animals. Every production is a new challenge and preparing the animals is loads of fun! The dog’s human guardians love the fact that their dogs will be seen on television, in print, or in the movies. Some of these dogs become quite popular and are used repeatedly for many different types of work. I had one client tell me, “It’s like he was a kid who spent the day in a candy shop. He came home happy, tired, and full [of treats].”

    Mixed-breed dogs are great for production work because each dog is unique in appearance. Though the more unique dogs aren’t often chosen for large parts in feature films (because it sometimes takes more than one dog to do the part, so they need dogs who look exactly alike), mixed-breed dogs are popular for advertisements, TV shows, and TV commercials.

    If you’re thinking of allowing your mixed breed to work in the production world, your first step is to find an animal actors’ agent. There are specific traits that agents look for, and you’ll want to see if your dog has that special something that catches an agent’s eye. You’ll also need to know how to prepare your dog for the work and what to expect while she performs in front of the camera.
    Remember
    Even if an agent doesn’t think your dog is special, you know she is, and that’s all your dog cares about.

    Knowing what animal agents look for


    Agents are looking, first and foremost, for well-trained dogs. Any dog who can earn an obedience or agility title is always welcomed by an animal actors’ agent. Your dog should be able to perform off-leash with all kinds of distractions going on around her — because a production can be a very distracting situation. A dog who can perform specific tricks on command (such as speak, hold something in her mouth, fetch, or wave), as well as a dog who doesn’t mind wearing clothing, is ideal.

    Agents also look for dogs who are photogenic — and cute and photogenic aren’t necessarily the same thing. For example, few black dogs are chosen for production work because the camera can’t see their facial expressions. Often, black-and-white, brown-and-white, tan, merle, or other color combinations are what the producers are looking for. Productions vary a lot, so dogs of all sizes are used at one time or another.

    Another item of extreme importance to an animal actors’ agent is the dog’s overall appearance. A dog with a dry, flaky coat, dull eyes, or low or high weight cannot perform well, so she won’t be chosen. Owners of canine actors have to keep their dogs in the peak of health and training at all times, because a healthy dog can better tolerate the long performance and on-set hours. A health dog shines inside and out.
    Tip
    If you want your dog to be an actor, you must allow the dog to be available at all times. Rarely will you be allowed on the set, unless you’re a professional trainer. This means that you must trust the trainers who will work with your dog on-set — if you won’t trust your dog in someone else’s hands, you won’t be happy with production work.

    Preparing for work


    Other than practicing your dog’s obedience and special tricks, the only way of knowing how to prepare for a job is to talk with your dog’s agent regarding the availability of layouts. A storyboard is a roughly drawn picture that helps the director and actors know where to stand and where the cameras will be. It gives the trainer an idea of the specific action required of the dog and from which direction the camera will be angled.

    If you aren’t a professional trainer, the agent will hire one to work with your dog. The trainer will either pick up your dog at your home, or make arrangements with you to bring her to the set. You’ll be told whether you can remain with her at that time. During any given production day, the dog is spending more time relaxing than working. She’ll be getting lots of food rewards while working, so she often isn’t fed much for her normal meals.

    If the dog is expected to retrieve something specific, you can practice this reaction ahead of time. If the dog is required to wear specific types of clothing, such as a hat and sunglasses, you can practice this as well. As is often the case, however, the animal actors’ agent is told that certain behaviors will be required, but when the dog and trainer arrive on-set, the director has either changed his mind or embellished on the original action. This means that the dog must be well trained and easy to teach on the spot.
    Warning!
    Sometimes, much to the dismay of the animal actors’ agent and trainer, the director requests the dog to “be a dog.” To a trainer, this is a nightmare directive. Many people don’t understand that they won’t get a specific action from a dog unless the dog is cued to perform it. In these situations, there’s not much you can do to prepare other than working on basic behaviors and tricks, hoping that whatever will be expected is something your dog already understands.

    What to expect when your dog performs in front of the camera


    In order for a dog to give her best performance, the trainer must use positive reinforcement. This will make the entire experience enjoyable for your dog. After every couple of commands, your dog will be rewarded both verbally and with a treat or toy. What dog wouldn’t love that?
    Tip
    A production is always a hurry-up-and-wait scenario. The dog is requested to arrive at a call time, often hours prior to the time she goes in front of the camera. So the dog gets to wait and wait and wait. During that time, she needs to remain quiet so that she has the energy to perform.
    When she begins her performance, your dog will be in front of the camera for anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes. As a new scene is set up, she’ll wait another hour or two for a possible second scene where she’ll be in front of the camera for another 20 to 30 minutes. In all, there’s more waiting than working.

    by Miriam Fields-Babineau

    Photos Of Mixed Breed Dogs


    Mixed-breed dogs are every bit as adorable as their purebred counterparts. This dog doesn’t know he doesn’t have a pedigree! (For more on what makes a mixed breed a mixed breed, check out Chapter Mixing It Up: Introducing the Mixed Breed.)

    The Cockapoo was one of the first designer dogs — intentional crossings of two purebreds — in the United States. (For more on designer dogs, including the Cockapoo, turn to Chapter Designer Dogs: Not Your Mother’s Mutt.)

    Mixed-breed dogs come in all shapes and sizes (see Chapter A Little of This, a Little of That: Deciding Which Mixed Breed Is Right for You).

    Many mixed-breed dogs are abandoned by the side of the road, neglected, or otherwise mistreated. If they’re lucky, they end up in animal shelters or rescue groups — and if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to take one home with you. Despite their rocky start, these dogs can make wonderful companions. (For tips on finding your new best friend, check out Chapter Choosing Your New Best Friend.)

    When you bring home a mixed-breed puppy, be sure to get a copy of her vaccination records to give to your vet. (For tips on finding a vet who will be your partner in caring for your dog throughout her life, check out Chapter Finding and Working with a Vet.)

    Your mixed breed doesn’t have to have Retriever blood to love going into the water after a ball. (See Chapter Exercising Your Dog for more fun ways to make sure your dog is getting enough exercise.)

    This mixed breed is totally submissive, letting his little friend rub his tummy for as long as she’ll do it. Dogs and children can become fast friends. Just make sure your kids know that the dog isn’t a toy — even if he’s a Toy mix! (For more on introducing your family, including other pets, to your new mixed breed, see Chapter Bringing Home Your Mixed Breed.)

    You are the center of your dog’s world, and the more time you can spend playing with her, exercising with her, and just hanging out with her, the happier she’ll be! (For ten ways to have fun with your dog, see Chapter Ten Fun Activities You and Your Mixed Breed Can Enjoy Together.)

    A crate like this one can be your mixed breed’s “den,” a safe place he can sleep in or go when he needs a little quiet time. It can also be a huge help when you’re housetraining your dog and can’t supervise him 24/7. (For more on housetraining, see Chapter Housetraining.)

    Don’t let this cute face (and those ears!) fool you: Like any dog, a mixed breed needs to be trained. With the right approach, training can be a rewarding experience for you and your dog. (Check out Chapter Hup, Two, Three, Four: Good Manners and Basic Training for everything you need to know to train your mixed breed.)

    Dogs love to dig holes. If you don’t want your mixed breed tearing up your yard, give him a box filled with sand to dig in (see Chapter Tackling Mixed-Breed Training Challenges).

    Agility is a great form of exercise for any dog (see Chapter Not Just for Purebreds: Showing Off with Your Mixed Breed). This Eskipoo is a natural!

    Your mixed breed will want to go with you everywhere you go, even on the water. If you take your dog boating, be sure she’s wearing a wellfitting canine life vest before she puts her paws on deck, and keep it on her until she’s back on dry land. Even if she can swim, if she falls overboard she’ll need this added protection (see Chapter Exercising Your Dog).

    Dogs love to play tug-of-war with each other. If your mixed breed doesn’t have a canine companion at home, try taking him to a dog park so he can make some friends and develop his social skills. Playtime is a great way for your dog to get exercise, too! (For more on ways to stimulate your dog’s mind, check out Chapter Tackling Mixed-Breed Training Challenges.)

    Your mixed breed will love hitting the road with you. No matter where you’re going, she’ll be ready for an adventure! (For tips on what to bring when traveling with your dog, head to Chapter Traveling with Charley.)

    by Miriam Fields-Babineau

    Ten Fun Activities You and Your Mixed Breed Can Enjoy Together

     In This Chapter
    • Showing off your mixed-breed dog
    • Playing games
    • Becoming a good citizen
    • Having fun outdoors
    • Helping others
    There are loads of fun activities you can do with your mixedbreed dog — none of which require a pedigree! From competition to helping others, you can participate in many activities where both of you would have fun.

    The more events you work for, and the more titles you earn with your dog, the better you and he work together. Never buy into the idea that your dog has accomplished all he can — there is always more to learn! You can also be certain that the more you teach him, the happier he’ll be, because you’re stimulating his brain and exercising his body.

    If you want to help others, you can enlist your mixed breed as a helper. The first step is to prove that he’s a good citizen. The next is to train him and prepare yourself as a therapy team going to schools, hospitals, and convalescent homes visiting those who can’t have pets. The presence of an animal has great healing power. Just as your mixed breed keeps your heart whole, merely touching his coat or receiving a wet kiss from his lips has great benefits for another person. Your dog will love traveling to places with you, and the attention from everyone is a huge boost to his ego.

    The things you can do and the places you can go together are endless. Take the time to peruse the possibilities in the great world of mixed-breed dogs!

    Competing with Your Dog at the Classic K-9 Show


    The North American Dog Racing Association’s Classic K-9 Show (www.classick9.com) is open to dogs of all breeds or mixed combinations. It’s a great venue to participate in many types of canine sports to earn titles and prizes. These include high jumping and timed agility.

    The Web site is filled with information on how to join the organization as well as about competing. You can find an event schedule, so you can check out a show in your area (or at least close). If you see one in your area, go watch! Being a spectator is almost as fun as competing — plus, it’ll give you a sense of whether this is an activity you and your dog would enjoy!

    Participating in United Kennel Club Events


    The United Kennel Club (www.ukcdogs.com) is the largest all-breed performance registry in the world. It registers dogs from across the United States and in 25 other countries. More than 60 percent of its licensed events are tests of natural abilities such as hunting, training, and instinct. They emphasize the dog’s performance not appearance.

    The United Kennel Club is one of the few purebred dog clubs that also allows mixed-breed dogs to compete. The club members believe that this will improve the health and well-being of all dogs.

    The UKC sanctions obedience trials, agility, dog sport, weight pulling, and terrier races. All mixed-breed dogs are welcome to compete in these performance classes. They are offered throughout the year all over North America.

    Having Fun at Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America Events


    The Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America (MBDCA; www.mbdca.org) is a registry for mixed breeds. It provides the same opportunities for competitions that the American Kennel Club does for purebred dogs. The MBDCA doesn’t have the same conformation-type competition of the AKC (which judges dogs according to a breed standard, that includes all kinds of mostly appearance-related attributes). But the MBDCA does have performance events where you can earn similar titles to those put on AKC dogs, as well as a conformation competition where the standard is toward general soundness as well as a good temperament and manners (as opposed to appearance).

    In obedience, your dog can earn titles in Novice (on- and off-leash obedience routines), Open (off-leash obedience routines), and Utility (advanced off-leash obedience routines), as well as the title of Obedience Trial Champion. The title initials are the same as the AKC initials, only with the letters MB in front of them, denoting that the dog is a mixed breed. For example, the title for Mixed Breed Companion Dog is MB-CD; for Mixed Breed Companion Dog Excellent, MB-CDX; for Mixed Breed Utility Dog, MB-UD; and for Mixed Breed Utility Dog Excellent, MB-UDX.

    Training Your Dog to Dive


    I’ll never forget watching my first dock diving competition. I loved not only seeing those dogs racing down a dock and diving, but observing how much fun they and their handlers were having.

    Dock diving is open to all dogs of any breed or mix. This event has become so popular that it’s featured on ESPN, called the Big Air Games. Because of the sport’s quick rise in popularity, the organization Dock Dogs was formed to oversee all the smaller organizations dedicated to this sport. Its Web site (www.dockdogs.com) features information on how to get started and a list of events throughout the country. Another great site for information on this sport is Sport Mutt (www.sportmutt.com).

    In order to enjoy dock diving, you just need to have access to water with either a diving board or dock. Your dog must love the water. Dogs who have a high desire to retrieve are also naturals for this sport, because they’ll want to chase down the ball as it soars over the water.

    Currently, there aren’t any training clubs where you can go to learn how to teach your dog to dock dive. But the sites mentioned earlier do explain how to train your dog and where to go for dock diving events.

    Joining the Fun at the Australian Shepherd Club of America


    Formed in 1957 to promote the Australian Shepherd Dog breed, it has opened its doors to allowing mixed-breed dogs to compete in ASCA-sanctioned shows and earn titles as well.

    Before Australian Shepherds were recently accepted as a purebred by the American Kennel Club, they were only allowed to compete in open matches or at ASCA-sanctioned shows. Due to these restrictions, the group decided to allow other dogs not recognized by the AKC to also compete at its shows.

    ASCA holds obedience and other performance events around the country. Visit the Web site (www.asca.org) to find an event near you.

    Camping and Hiking: Finding Fun Outdoor Activities


    What’s better than exploring and enjoying the great outdoors with your mixed breed? At Dog Play (www.dogplay.com), you can find a useful list of camps and outdoor activities for dog enthusiasts. These camps offer accommodations, meals, scheduled activities and classes, a chance for dogs to play with other dogs, and opportunities for you to hike, bike, canoe, and explore. Whether you go with a special someone or by yourself, you’ll meet many other dog enthusiasts who share your passion for mixed breeds.

    Helping Your Dog Become a Good Citizen


    The Canine Good Citizen (www.akc.org/events/cgc/index.cfm) is a great certificate to work toward with your dog. It proves your dog’s temperament and control as well as social skills. Since its inception, it has become a popular goal for many dog owners.

    There are even communities that require all dogs living within that community to be CGC-certified!

    Though the AKC is a club for purebred dogs, it offers the CGC test to mixed breeds as well. You can often find CGC tests listed in the newspaper, or online at www.akc.org, where there are listings for each state.

    To earn a CGC title, the dog must pass ten tests of social skill, temperament, and obedience. These tests include
    • Accepting a friendly stranger
    • Sitting politely for petting
    • Being examined for overall health and well-being
    • Going out for a walk (walking on a leash)
    • Walking through a crowd
    • Performing a Sit and Down on command, as well as staying for a short period of time
    • Coming when called
    • Observing your dog’s reaction to new objects and the presence of strangers
    • Observing your dog’s reaction to the presence of other dogs
    • Observing how your dog reacts when left alone for a short period of time

    Help Your Dog Help Other People


    If you’re interested in training your dog to be a therapy dog (who goes to hospitals and convalescent centers to bring a smile to people’s faces), the Delta Society (www.deltasociety.org) is the place to start. You can find out where to take a course in your area. (Courses are offered throughout the United States and internationally.)

    Courses help you select and prepare animals for visits to nursing homes, schools, hospitals, and convalescent centers. They also cover how to recognize stress in your dog and provide information regarding animal health and safety. The Delta Society course also teaches you about the special needs of specific client groups, such as children, the elderly, or the physically challenged. This course also covers the legal codes related to the facilities you’ll be visiting with your dog. Prior to passing its stringent testing, your dog must be well trained.

    When your mixed breed is certified, you and your dog can visit hospitals, nursing homes, and schools bringing joy and healing to everyone. You’ll need to make arrangements with each organization regarding appropriate scheduled visiting times and discuss the individuals you’ll be working with. The Delta Society stresses preparedness and patient confidentiality, so this preparation will help you perform a better service.

    Dancing with Your Mixed Breed


    Yes, you can actually dance with your dog. This sport is known as Canine Freestyle, because dancing with dogs is not based on a specific pattern, but rather on your ability to choreograph your movements and your dog’s movements in tandem, to music, incorporating obedience, natural canine movement, and fancy trick behaviors.

    Several Freestyle clubs and organizations hold events all over the United States and some throughout the world. The two largest clubs are the Canine Freestyle Federation (www.canine-freestyle.org) and The World Canine Freestyle Organization (www.worldcaninefreestyle.org). It is now offered by the AKC as a pointearning event, and mixed breeds are allowed to compete with prior approval of the AKC.

    Flying High with Flyball


    Flyball is a relay race. At the starting signal the dogs are sent over a series of four jumps to a box where they must trigger the release of a ball or beanbag, take hold of it, and race back to their handlers over the four jumps, carrying the ball or beanbag all the way. The first team of four dogs and handlers to complete the course wins the race. Points are assigned according to the dogs’ speed.

    There’s a reason this sport is paired with cheering: It’s fun for your dog, fun for you and your team, and fun to watch. The sport is open to all dogs — purebred and mixed breed alike.

    The North American Flyball Association (www.flyball.org) is the governing body for this sport. At www.flyballdogs.com, you can get information about how the game is run, what titles are available, where to find tournaments, and how to train.

    by Miriam Fields-Babineau

    Ten Reasons to Spay or Neuter Your Dog

     In This Chapter
    • Finding low-cost ways to spay or neuter your dog
    • Understanding how spaying or neutering your pet can help the pet population
    • Assessing the health risks of not spaying or neutering your dog
    When you start thinking about spaying or neutering your dog, the first questions you should ask yourself are: Why did you get your mixed-breed dog? Because you wanted a companion, or because you specifically wanted to breed other animals? If you wanted a companion (the reason most people get dogs), you should sterilize your dog to improve the quality of your life and your dog’s.
    Warning!
    Dog breeding is not for everyone. Done correctly it is costly, time-consuming, and often heart-wrenching. Though many people deal with the aftermath of breeding accidents, or breed their dogs without thinking about the dogs’ or puppies’ welfare, you can be certain that a large percentage of pregnant female dogs and their puppies wind up either at animal shelters or suffer dreadful consequences.
    Whether you have a designer dog that costs thousands, or a Heinz 57 you adopted, there is no reason for breeding your dog and many reasons not to. In this chapter, I give you ten of the many reasons why you should spay or neuter your pet.

    It Doesn’t Cost Much — and It May Be Free!


    If you adopted your mixed-breed dog from a shelter, humane society, or rescue organization, you’ll likely be able to get a huge discount when it’s time to sterilize your dog. Just ask the people you got your dog from. The discounts can be anywhere from 10 to 60 percent!

    Some veterinarians do spay and neutering clinics — often free to humane and rescue organizations. If you’ve adopted from those organizations, you may be able to get the service without charge. Information on free or low-charge spaying/neutering is often posted on bulletin boards at the volunteer veterinarians’ hospitals; animal shelters are also aware of the locations and dates of the clinics, so check with them if you’re unsure.

    Many rescue groups already have sterilized their dogs before allowing them to be adopted, while humane societies require you to do it before they’ll allow the dog to go home with you.
    Warning!
    Some low-cost spay-and-neuter clinics are able to offer this service because they minimize the use of anesthetic monitoring, the use of intravenous fluids, and post-operative pain control. If you can afford this procedure through your normal vet, go that route instead — you’ll decrease the risks and pain associated with surgery.
    Remember
    If you’re choosing between getting your dog spayed/neutered at a low-cost clinic, and not spaying/neutering at all, always opt for spaying/neutering.

    Breeding Is Time-Consuming and Expensive


    If you’re the owner of a female dog who got loose at the wrong time and came home pregnant, you’ve got a lot of expense ahead of you. Besides the time-consuming puppy and mommy care, you’ll have to take the pups to the vet for worming and the first set of vaccinations when they’re 5 weeks old, and again at 7 weeks. The costs of these vaccinations can range anywhere from $25 to $50 per puppy per visit. Did your dog have seven puppies? Do the math.

    What if your dog becomes ill and can’t feed her puppies? You’ll have to hand-feed each one (more cost for formula and bottles for seven puppies for four weeks — ka-ching!) every two to four hours, 24 hours a day. That’s more than a full-time job!

    When the puppies reach 3 weeks of age, the mommy dog begins to wean them. She won’t want to stick around and feed or clean them. Now it’s up to you to make sure she does her time with them when she’d really rather not. You’ll have to force her to do her job.

    When the pups reach 4 weeks of age, it’s completely up to you as the puppies are weaned. You’ll have to feed them three times a day (more money for food), and clean up after them. Generally, a puppy pen needs cleaning three times a day, or the puppies are covered in a smelly mess.

    Then there’s the noise level. When they’re hungry, puppies cry. When they play, they bark at each other. And they’re not on your sleeping schedule — you’re on their schedule, which means sometime around 2 or 3 in the morning, it’s playtime!

    Having puppies isn’t all fun and games. Sure they’re cute, and puppy breath can’t be beat, but they’re loads of work and cost a lot! Spaying your female dog will save you a lot of time and money.

    You Reduce Your Dog’s Risk of Cancer


    The older your dog becomes, the higher the risk that she’ll develop any number of cancers.

    Male dogs are prone to testicular and prostate infection and cancer, while female dogs can get mammarian, ovarian, uterine, and cervical cancer. Not caught in time, these diseases are fatal. Even if caught in the early stages, cancer is extremely expensive to treat. You’ll need to weigh the difference between the cost of sterilization ($75 to $150) and the cost of treating cancer (upwards of $2,000 for surgery, chemo, and/or radiation treatments). Plus, cancer causes all kinds of physical and psychological stress for you and your dog.

    Cancer isn’t the only health risk for an unsterilized pet. Unsterilized dogs are more prone to developing kidney and bladder infections. Female dogs are prone to uterine and pelvic infections, as well as frequent vaginitis.

    Overall, the cost is too high — both materially and psychologically — not to spay or neuter your dog.

    You Help Control the Number of Unwanted Dogs in the World


    In the United States, a dog is euthanized every 4 seconds of every day. That’s millions of dogs killed each year because people weren’t responsible pet owners.

    The average family of four would have to own eight dogs each in order for every dog in the United States to have a home. Are you willing to have eight dogs? Is your neighbor? How would that work in a high-rise apartment building in the city?

    The rampant spread of disease is another reason that dogs are being euthanized at an alarming rate. The more feral dogs there are, without the benefit of vaccinations, the faster they will spread diseases such as rabies, parvovirus, distemper, and other highly contagious diseases, some of which are transferable to humans.

    Also, homeless dogs can be dangerous to local wildlife and cats, as well as causing vehicular accidents. Some may even harm children. There are many known cases of wandering dog packs actually killing children and the elderly.

    Your dog needs you to be a responsible guardian.

    Your Dog Won’t Be as Likely to Stray from Home


    Female dogs in season seek male dogs. It’s a hard-wired instinct. You open your front door, and out she goes — and she won’t return for days, if at all. If she returns home, you’ll have a pregnant dog to deal with.

    Unneutered male dogs can smell a female dog in season from more than a mile away. They perform feats of spectacular escapism to reach that female. Plus, they become assertive and temperamental if they aren’t allowed to reach the source of the scent. Do you want to lose your dog with the high probability of never seeing him again? Or knowing that he can become injured by fighting with other dogs over a female in season, or being hit by a car and dying on the side of the road because he had to get to that female dog across the busy highway? Is it really that important to keep your dog intact when the risks of permanently losing him are that high?

    Your Dog Will Be on Her Best Behavior


    Neutering or spaying does not change who your dog is, but it will enhance her behavior in a more positive way, making your relationship with her more harmonious. When your female dog is in heat or your male dog smells a female in heat, your mixed breed won’t be the baby or best friend you’ve known.

    Your Dog Will Be Easier to Housetrain


    Neutered male dogs are less likely to spray the furniture in your home or otherwise mark territory indoors. They’re more accepting of the fact that inside the home is your territory. When an intact male dog detects a female dog in heat, he’ll likely break all the housetraining rules and behave as though he’d never learned them. The mess and stench will be tremendous. You’ll be tempted to make your dog live outdoors instead of with you — and that means he’ll no longer be a family member.

    A neutered/spayed dog will be more likely to acquiesce to housetraining due to not having the desire to be in charge or behave in an instinctual manner. Your dog can’t control her mood swings and needs.

    Another important reason is the mess involved with a female dog in heat. She will be leaking blood for ten days during the first trimester of her heat. It’s messy, smelly, and can stain your flooring, furniture, and bedding. Who wants to deal with that?

    Reproduction Can Be Risky


    Many things can go wrong with whelping puppies. There can be health and delivery risks for the mother. If she has a dead puppy in her womb, she can become seriously ill as the puppy decomposes or spreads any disease that might have killed the pup to the other puppies and to the mother. If one of the puppies doesn’t exit the womb properly, causing the mother dog physical distress, she’ll have to undergo a cesarean section to deliver the puppies. This will be very costly to you and physically stressful to her.

    Some mother dogs don’t want to be mothers. They won’t clean up after their pups or feed them. Guess who will have to take over? Yep, that’s right: you! Will you be willing to do this when she won’t?

    Your Dog Will Be a Better Watchdog


    A neutered dog will want to protect his home territory instead of wanting to increase the size of his territory. Intact male dogs tend to mark every object they can when going for walks through the neighborhood. They want to increase the size of their territory and do so by leaving this “calling card.” A neutered dog will be less likely to want to stop at every tree, fence post, and mailbox to leave his mark. He won’t care about increasing his territory. He’s quite happy with the one he has at home.

    A dog who loves his home will tend to protect it better. You’ll be alerted to the presence of strangers who enter the area instead of wondering why you never heard your dog bark when someone arrived because the dog was down the block investigating the source of an interesting smell.

    So if you spend a lot of time home alone, keeping your dog home, too, will be very beneficial. He will want to stay home if he’s not driven to roam by raging hormones.

    Your Dog Isn’t You


    You love your mixed breed very much. You may even “identify” with her as a part of yourself — an extension or appendage. You think that you would hate to be unable to reproduce. It’s the driving force of nature, of all living things.
    Remember
    You have to be realistic. Your dog is a dog, not a person, and not you in particular. You can prove your love and devotion to your dog by neutering or spaying, because you’ll be improving your dog’s quality of life as well as your dog’s longevity.
     by Miriam Fields-Babineau

    Traveling with Charley

     In This Chapter
    • Preparing for your trip
    • Driving or flying with your dog
    • Leaving your dog at home
    There was some genuine worry about my traveling alone, open to attack, robbery, assault. It is well known that our roads are dangerous. And here I admit I had senseless qualms. It is some years since I have been alone, nameless, friendless, without any of the safety one gets from family, friends, and accomplices. There is no reality in the danger. It’s just a very lonely, helpless feeling  t first — a kind of desolate feeling. For this reason I took one companion on my journey — an old French gentleman poodle known as Charley.
    —John Steinbeck, Travels with Charley in Search of America
    Over the hills and through the woods, it’s a travelin’ we go! If only it were so easy. Traveling with a dog requires careful planning. You need to know what to pack, how to find hotels that accept dogs, and special considerations for flying with your dog — and in this chapter, I lay it all out for you. I also cover what to do if you have to leave your dog at home.

    Deciding Whether to Bring Your Dog with You


    When you’re planning a trip and you own a dog, one of the first things that crosses your mind is whether you can take your dog with you. Although I’m sure you’d love to have your dog along for the ride, you have to ask yourself a few key questions to decide whether your mixed breed and this trip are a good fit:
    - Will you have time to spend with your dog? If you’re going on vacation, the answer will probably be yes — after all, you’re on vacation to relax, right? But if you’re going on a business trip, odds are your dog will end up having to spend a lot of time in the hotel room by himself. He’ll be in a new place, and being alone there won’t be as easy for him as it is at your house. Unless you’ll be able to spend most of your time with your dog, you’re better off leaving him at home.
    - Is your pet in good condition to travel? If your dog is very young or very old, a road trip might be strenuous for him — he’ll have to relieve himself more often, and you’ll have to make lots of stops. Young pups need to run — unless you’re driving a monster SUV with a doggy playground in the back, your pup will likely chew whatever is within reach (arm rests, seat covers, head rests, suitcase handles). Old dogs may have difficulty getting in and out of your vehicle.
    Warning!
    A sick or injured dog should remain in a quiet environment, not be jostled about in a vehicle or extremely stressed by a ride in the cargo hold of an airplane.
    - Is there a pet-friendly place to stay at your destination? Most hotel chains don’t allow dogs in their establishments. You’ll need to plan ahead and make reservations so that you don’t end up driving around in the middle of the night searching for a place to stay.
    - If you’re visiting family and/or friends, are they okay with the idea that your dog will be with you? One of the best ways to make yourself unwelcome is to arrive at someone’s house with your dog without first asking if they’re cool with it. Believe me, after many years of having a relative come to my house with dogs who urinated on my carpeting or showed aggression to my animals, I can totally understand people who’d rather not welcome other people’s pets into their homes — and I love dogs!

    Finding Pet-Friendly Places to Stay


    Most hotels, motels, and bed-and-breakfasts don’t allow pets. And in the hotels that do, room availability may be limited — they typically set aside certain rooms for people with pets. Even so, you can find hotels and motels that accept dogs — you just need to spend a little more time looking than you would otherwise.
    Tip
    AAA publishes a great book, Traveling With Your Pet, that’s updated yearly, listing all the pet-friendly places to stay in the United States. You don’t have to be a AAA member to obtain this book at its Web site (www.aaa.com).
    Tip
    You can also find information on pet-friendly hotels at www.petswelcome.com, www.dogfriendly.com, and www.bringfido.com. Both sites allow you to see hotels in any city, state, or province you’re visiting. (As of this printing, www.bringfido.com is limited to just the United States, but the other two offer information on hotels in Canada as well.)

    Packing for Your Trip


    When you’re traveling on your own, you may jot down a list of things you need to remember to pack. Well, you need to do the same for your dog when you’re bringing him along. The good news: I’ve done much of the legwork for you. Here’s a list of items to bring on your trip:
    - Food and water dishes: The collapsible type are great when space is tight. Otherwise, lightweight plastic dishes work well.
    - A bottle of water from home: If the trip is short, such as a day or two, a gallon of water should do. If longer, bring enough water for during the traveling and a bit for arrival to gently wean your dog onto whatever water is available at your destination. Water varies from location to location — a sudden change can upset your dog’s stomach.
    - Food: Place kibble in an airtight container to maintain freshness. If you’re bringing canned food, be sure to bring a can opener if you’ll need one. Be sure to bring enough food for the entire trip.
    - Your dog’s bed: If you don’t want to bring a bulky bed, bring along a mat. You can find zippered mat beds that double as carrying cases for dog supplies. I usually use it for doggy toys, treats, leashes, and packaged food when I travel with my dogs.
    - Leash and collar with identification tags: If your dog pulls on the leash when you walk him, bring a training device, such as a head halter or Easy Walk harness.
    - Treats and toys: Interactive toys — such as treat-stuffed toys or those that are edible — are best. I’ve found that a plain, old shank bone, stuffed with ground up food is great. It’s inexpensive and reusable.
    - Grooming supplies
    - Medications and supplements
    - Bags for picking up droppings
    - Your dog’s health records: Regardless of where you travel or for how long, have a copy of your mixed breed’s vaccination record and rabies certificate. This is especially important when crossing state lines or traveling in a foreign country.
    If you’re going to the beach, be sure to bring some means of shading your dog from the sun, such as a beach umbrella or a tent; an extra towel or two for your dog; and a keep-cool mat. These are special mats that can be soaked in cold water and will remain cool for hours — a great way to help your furry friend control his body temperature when it’s very hot outside. You can carry it in a large cooler, along with your water bottles and soda.

    If you’re heading to the mountains, bring along a mobile first-aid kit (see Chapter First Aid: Dealing with Emergencies). With exposure to wild animals and uneven terrain, your dog could get injured, and you want to be prepared. Bring along some insect repellent as well, such as Avon’s Skin-So-Soft — it may help prevent topical parasites on your dog.
    Tip
    Keep the following contact info handy while you travel:
    - American Animal Hospital Association (phone: 303-986-2800; Web: www.healthypet.com): Contact the association if you need to find a vet while you’re on the road.
    - Dogpark.com: This Web site can help you find a place to exercise your dog while you’re on the road.

    Traveling by Car


    Traveling by car can be a fun and easy way to get to places with your mixed breed in tow. To make sure your trip is a fun one for you and your dog, be sure to acclimate your dog to car travel gradually. Begin with short trips to fun places — this makes the experience more rewarding.

    An important part of traveling with your dog is keeping him safe on the trip, and that means containing him in some way so that he doesn’t have free run of the car. If he can run all over the car, he may interfere with your ability to see or steer, or if you get in an accident or you have to brake suddenly, he could go flying.

    You can contain your dog in a comfortable crate, strap him into a special body harness with a seat belt attachment, or let him hang out in a flat rear cargo area with a divider. The containment method you use depends largely on your dog’s size and temperament. Here’s the lowdown on each:
    - Crate: The crate is best for anxious dogs or those who tend to chew or whine or bark in the car. Whether your dog is anxious or not, a crate is the safest place for him to be in your car. I recommend a metal crate because it’s sturdy but provides ample air flow and gives your dog a view of everyone in the car and everything outside the windows. You can drape a reflecting blanket over it to keep the interior cooler on hot days.
    Warning!
    Never keep your dog in a hot car on a hot day with the windows closed or left open only a crack. Your dog will die of heat stroke and suffocation in an agonizing, cruel manner.
    - Seat restraints: Many brands of dog seat restraints are available. Most come in the form of an upper-body harness with a clip that attaches either to the belt or to the actual seat belt insert clip. For a medium to large dog, use the type that clips directly into the seat belt clip insert. For smaller dogs, I recommend a booster seat with the seat belt attachment to a body harness. The booster seat lets your small dog look at the scenery while in a comfortable cushioned bed.
    - The rear cargo area: If you have a station wagon or SUV, you can place your medium to large mixed breed in the back cargo area, with a metal divider keeping him from getting into the front seats. It’s similar to a crate, though often larger. Your dog can see the passing scenery and remain secure behind the metal vehicle barrier. You will have to put up with nose smudges on the glass, though — a small price to pay from your dog’s point of view!
    Warning!
    Don’t leave your dog loose in the cargo area if he’s destructive, has traveling anxiety of any sort, or likes to bark at everyone he sees while you drive. You’ll be more distracted worrying about what he’s doing back there than keeping your mind on the road. Also, don’t put a small dog in the rear cargo area — he could go flying if you stop suddenly.

    Flying with Your Dog


    Some dog owners never let their dogs travel by plane; others have never had any problems and do it all the time. The main thing to consider: Unless your dog can fit under an airline seat, he’ll have to ride in the checked baggage area or the cargo hold. Though the cargo hold is temperature-controlled while in flight (not while on the ground) and have an air-exchange system, it will still be more stressful for your mixed breed than remaining with you in the cabin.
    Remember
    Unless your dog can fit in his carrier under the seat, only certified service animals can remain in the cabin with their human companions.
    If your dog has to remain in his air carrier for more than six hours straight, he may have trouble not being able to relieve himself. Imagine yourself having to do that — especially when stressed. It’s tough. And, if you have flight layovers or you have multiple flights, you probably won’t be able to visit with your dog. The airlines generally have people who check on your dog for you.
    Warning!
    Some types of dogs should not travel by air — period. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) specifies that dogs under 8 weeks of age can’t fly at all. If the dog is ill, injured, pregnant, or very old, they recommend that he doesn’t travel by air. Also, dogs with very short noses such as Pugs and Boxers, as well as long-nosed dogs such as Collies, are prone to respiratory difficulties, and the UDSA suggests they only travel by air if they can do so in the passenger cabin. Some airlines won’t accept short-nosed breeds at all if the temperature exceeds 70°F anywhere during the routing (between the terminals and airplane).

    What to do before you leave


    When you’re flying with a dog, you’ll need to make some preparations beyond the more-basic road-trip ones. In the following sections, I walk you through what you need to do.

    Checking out the airlines’ requirements


    The first thing you need to do when considering an air trip with your dog is to determine the airline’s regulations. Airlines change their regulations frequently, so check with your favorite airlines before buying your ticket.

     Buying an airline-approved crate


    The crate you use for your dog in your house probably isn’t an airline- approved crate, so the first thing to do when you start thinking about flying with your dog is to get one. You’ll want a crate that’s not only comfortable for your dog but that’ll keep him safe throughout the flight.

    The crate should have a hard shell, so that if something accidentally falls on it, your pet will be protected. If the crate (and your dog) are small enough to carry, it should have a strong handle. If your dog is too large to carry, make sure you can either push the crate on wheels or lift it onto a wheeled cart.

    The crate should have plenty of ventilation and a leak-proof floor. Place an absorbent bed on the floor so that your mixed breed will be comfortable during the flight. The crate door should open easily, but also be secure enough to prevent your dog from escape or from it accidentally opening when it’s jostled.

    If you’re able to bring your small dog into the passenger cabin, his crate must be able to fit under the seat in front of you, and the dog must stay within his crate. The under-seat space is approximately 23 by 13 by 9 inches. Beyond being able to fit in this space, there aren’t any other restrictions on the kind of crate you use. Keep in mind, however, that your pet won’t be allowed out of his crate during the trip, so he must be contained in a comfortable carrier with plenty of ventilation.

    If you’re traveling with more than one mixed breed, you can only have one per crate if either dog weighs more than 20 pounds.

    Making sure your dog has proper identification and health certificates


    Take your dog to your vet within ten days prior to your flight, have a complete physical examination, and request a copy of his vaccination record, rabies certificate, and a health certificate. If your mixed breed is traveling in the cargo hold, place his identification information (and yours) on the crate as well as any care instructions. When there are layovers or if you’re traveling internationally, airline employees will be caring for your dog and should be given appropriate instructions.

    Caring for your dog before and after the flight

    Tip
    Traveling by air can be stressful for both you and your mixed breed. So here are some tips for making it better for both of you:
    - Before the day of your flight, acclimate your dog to his air crate. Make sure he likes it before you leave. (You can get your dog used to his crate by leaving it open at home and using it as his bed and eating area.)
    - Don’t check in your dog until the very last minute. Until then, allow him to be out and about with you, moving around and acclimating to the airport congestion and commotion. Stay upbeat and give him plenty of rewards.
    - Make sure his water and food bowls are securely fastened to the side of the crate so they don’t spill in flight.
    - Place a couple of his favorite toys in the crate, as well as some interactive chewies. Just make sure that you don’t leave him with anything he might choke on, such as rawhide.
    - After the flight, remove your dog from his travel crate (on a leash) as soon as you reach a safe area where he can stretch his legs and go potty. Because he likely didn’t do his business while traveling, and was very stressed during the trip, he’ll be hopping from leg to leg by the time you arrive at your destination.
    - After he’s emptied his bladder and bowels, offer him fresh water and food, and let him move around, play with some toys, and cuddle with you before you leave the airport.

    Leaving Your Dog Behind


    You can’t always take your mixed-breed dog with you when you travel. In this section, I cover your two main options for leaving your mixed breed behind.

    Finding an in-home sitter


    When you’re looking for a reputable pet sitter, your best option is to ask your family and friends for referrals. If you can’t find any good recommendations that way, try checking with either Pet Sitters International (phone: 336-983-9222; Web: www.petsit.com) or the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (phone: 856-439-0324; Web: www.petsitters.org).
    Tip
    Here’s a list of questions to ask a potential pet sitter:
    - Are you insured for commercial liability and bonded? A sitter who is bonded and insured is serious about her services.
    What do your services include? Before you interview the potential pet sitter, make a list of all the things you’d want the pet sitter to do with your dog (walk him, hang out with him, play with him), and go down the list to be sure she’ll do everything.
    - What does the sitter require of you? Does the sitter require access to current veterinary information about your dog? (This is important in case of an emergency — she’ll have to take your dog to a veterinarian and must have appropriate documentation.) Does she ask for a letter from you stating that she represents you in your absence?
    - What kind of animals does the sitter normally work with? If the pet sitter normally only watches cats and fish, or if she’s used to small dogs and you have a 100-pound mutt, it might not be a good fit.
    - How will the pet sitter handle emergencies? What if the pet sitter gets in an accident and can’t come to watch your dog? Does she have a backup plan for herself? And what if something happens to your dog while you’re away? Will she take your dog to your vet, or will she go someplace else? Make sure you’re comfortable with the answers.
    - Does the sitter fully understand your mixed-breed dogs’ needs? Always fully explain to the sitter your dogs’ physical needs and overall behavior patterns. What times does he normally eat, sleep, play, and exercise? How does he behave while being walked? How much training has he had? What are his training commands? Explain the feeding process to the sitter — what your mixed-breed dog is fed, how much, where he eats, how he eats.
    - How much time will the pet sitter spend with your dog? Many pet sitters charge by the 15-minute increment of time and allow you to choose how long you want them to stay.

    Knowing what to look for in a kennel


    As with a pet sitter, the best place to find a kennel is through a referral from someone you trust. If you can’t get any recommendations, check with the American Boarding Kennels Association (phone: 719-667-1600; Web: www.abka.com).

    Depending on where you live, you can find kennels that range from the most basic (the dogs stay in a fenced-in area with a concrete floor, and minimal access to the outdoors) to the most posh (dogs have their own human-size beds — just like a hotel). Some kennels offer many different levels of accommodations and care.

    Before making a reservation, visit the kennel and take a tour. Check for cleanliness, employee knowledge, and the comfort of the animals (if they’re making a lot of noise, pacing, or sitting in a dark corner, this may not be a good sign). Find out about the opportunities for your dog to receive attention, exercise, and grooming.
    Tip
    Here’s a list of questions to ask any boarding kennel:
    - What’s included in the fee? Just feeding and cleaning, or also exercise and attention?
    - What vaccinations are required? If the kennel requires no vaccinations, stay away! The kennel should require rabies, parvo, distemper, and other contagious-disease vaccinations, including bordetella (kennel cough).
    - How will emergencies be handled? Is there a vet on call? Will your dog be taken to the vet he’s used to seeing?
    - Where will your dog be housed? A cage, run, or suite? What’s in the room with him? His own toys and bed from home?
    - How often are the dogs fed and interacted with?
    - How often are the dogs’ sleep and other areas cleaned?
    When you drop your dog off at the kennel, leave your contact information along with a copy of your dog’s health records, in case of emergencies. Also, let the staff know about his feeding routines, what he eats, how he eats, the type of exercise he prefers, the type of people he likes to interact with, and any commands he may know, as well as any psychological quirks, medical conditions, medication, or supplements.
    Tip
    Bring your dog’s regular food with him to the kennel so that he isn’t fed something that doesn’t agree with his digestive system. Prepackage each meal and label it, so that there aren’t any skipped supplements.
    by Miriam Fields-Babineau