Thứ Tư, 29 tháng 3, 2017

Grooming Resources


So you’re in the market for some supplies with which to start grooming your dog. This Appendix is the right place to look. It provides you with lists of Web sites where you can find information about grooming in general (and grooming education and certification specifically) and about where to find grooming products at good prices. If that isn’t enough, I also provide you with a list of books you can check out for additional information.

Web Sites


You can check out the Web sites that I list in the sections that follow regardless of whether you merely want only to groom your own dog or you’re leaning toward turning pro and using your skills to groom other folks’ best friends.

Grooming your own dog


If you’re looking for information about grooming your own dog or finding someone to do it for you, be sure to check these two Web sites:
- Petgroomer.com (www.petgroomer.com): Petgroomer.com is a great Internet resource guide for folks whose focus mainly is on grooming their own dogs.
- Find A Groomer Directory (www.findagroomer.com): This site helps you locate a groomer in your area via the Internet.

Grooming for yourself and others


Even if you’re only grooming your own dog, you can find some really cool pointers from Web sites aimed at professional groomers. Nevertheless, the sites in the list that follows focus on providing groomers who already are working professionally or the ones who are looking to turn pro:
- Intergroom (www.intergroom.com): This annual international conference for groomers features educational opportunities and seminars, a trade show, and certification information and opportunities.
  • Intergroom, Inc.
  • c/o Christine DeFilippo
  • 76 Carol Drive
  • Dedham, MA, USA 02026
  • Phone: 781-326-3376
  • E-mail: intergroom@msn.com
- National Dog Groomers Association of America (NDGAA — www.nationaldoggroomers.com): NDGAA is a national association founded in 1969 for specifically for dog groomers. It provides educational and certification opportunities.
- International Society of Canine Cosmetologists (ISCC — www.petstylist.com): ISCC offers opportunities for education and certification.
- International Pet Groomers (IPG — www.ipgcmg.org): IPG offers opportunities for education and certification.
  • IPG
  • c/o Judy Kurpiel, CMG
  • IPG President
  • 120 Turner Avenue
  • Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
  • Phone: 847-758-1938
  • E-mail: jkurpiel@ipgcmg.org 

Grooming Supplies


Need grooming supplies? A bunch of suppliers and manufacturers — retail and wholesale, mail-order and Internet — are out there at your beck and call, ready to provide for your every grooming need regardless of your status as a groomer, whether an amateur or a professional. Check out these suppliers:
- Petedge (www.petedge.com): Petedge is a wholesale distributor and manufacturer of groomer and other pet supplies. Supplies can be ordered either over the Internet or by mail-order.
  • Petedge
  • P. O. Box 128
  • Topsfield, MA 01983
  • Phone: 978-887-2368
  • Toll-free: 800-627-2232
- Groomer’s Choice Pet Products (www.groomerschoice.com): Order your groomer supplies through Groomer’s Choice Pet Products either by mail-order or over the Internet.
  • Groomer’s Choice
  • 2205 E. 39th Street N, Suite 300
  • Sioux Falls, SD 57104
  • Phone: 605-334-3886
  • Toll-free: 888-364-6242
- GroomStar (www.groomstar.com): Grooming supply purchases from GroomStar can be made either by mail-order or over the Internet.
  • GroomStar
  • 2222 Academy Place
  • Colorado Springs, CO 80909
  • Phone: 719-570-1113
  • Toll-free: 866-570-1113
- The Shampoo Lady (www.theshampoolady.com): The Shampoo Lady sells shampoos and other grooming supplies at wholesale prices
  • The Shampoo Lady
  • 9616 NE 227th Avenue
  • Vancouver, WA 98682
  • Phone: 360-944-7477
  • Toll-free: 877-476-6673
- American Pet Pro (www.americanpetpro.com): American Pet Pro offers grooming supplies over the Internet and by mail-order.
  • American Pet Pro
  • 2313 American Avenue
  • Hayward, CA 94545
  • Phone: 510-732-2781
  • Toll-free: 800-543-9480
- Groomtech (www.groomtech.com): Groomtech is a groomer’s supply house with mail-order and Internet access.
  • Groomtech
  • 555 Saturn Blvd., #436
  • San Diego, CA 92154
  • Phone: 800-898-4766
  • Toll-free: 800-898-4766
- J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies (www.jbpet.com): J-B Wholesale offers discount pet supplies by mail-order or through the Internet.
  • J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies
  • 5 Raritan Road
  • Oakland, NJ 07436
  • Phone: 800-526-0388
- KV Vet Supply (www.kvvet.com): KV Vet Supply provides discount pet and veterinary supplies, offering convenient mail-order and Internet ordering options.
  • KV Vet
  • 3190 N Road
  • PO Box 245
  • David City, NE 68632
  • Phone: 402-367-6047
  • Toll-free: 800-423-8211
- Petsupplies4less.com (www.petsupplies4less.com): Discount pet supplies are available by mail-order or through the Internet from Petsupplies4less.com.
  • Petsupplies4less.com
  • 713 4th Street
  • Fairbury, NE 68352
  • Toll-free: 877-813-PETS (877-813-7387)
- UPCO (www.upco.com): Founded in 1952, UPCO is a discount pet supply company. You can place orders through UPCO via mail-order or the Internet.
  • UPCO
  • 3705 Pear Street
  • P.O. Box 969
  • St. Joseph, MO 64502
  • Phone: 816-233-8800
  • Toll-free: 800-254-8726
- Jeffers Pet and Equine Supplies (www.jefferspet.com): Founded in 1975, Jeffers is a privately owned catalog and eCommerce animal health supply retailer.
  • Jeffers
  • P.O. Box 100
  • Dothan, AL 36302
  • Phone: 334-793-6257
  • Toll-free: 800-JEFFERS (800-533-3377)

Grooming and Dog-Related Magazines


Whether you want to subscribe or just pick up a copy at your local newsstand, here are some great dog-related magazines that can help you keep up to date with all of the innovations in grooming:
- AKC Gazette (www.akc.org/pubs/index.cfm): This magazine is published by the AKC and covers all sorts of topics on purebred dogs.
  • AKC Gazette
  • 51 Madison Ave.
  • New York, NY 10010
  • Phone: 800-533-7323
- Dog Fancy (www.dogfancy.com): This magazine’s articles cater to the pet owner (both purebred and mixed breed).
  • Dog Fancy
  • P.O. Box 53264
  • Boulder, CO 80322-3264
- Dog World (www.dogworldmag.com): This magazine caters to both pet and show dog owners. It includes good health and grooming articles.
  • Dog World
  • P.O. Box 56240
  • Boulder, CO 80323-6240
- Groom and Board: This magazine focuses on the professional groomer.
  • HH Backer and Associates
  • 200 South Michigan Avenue, Suite 840
  • Chicago, IL 60604
  • Phone: 312-663-4040
  • E-mail: grmbrd@aol.com
- Groomer to Groomer (www.groomertogroomer.com): This is another groomer magazine aimed toward the professional.
  • Barkleigh Productions, Inc.
  • 6 State Road 113
  • Mechanicsburg, PA 17050
  • Phone: 717-691-3388

Other Useful Reference Books



As if Dog Grooming For Dummies isn’t enough, here are some other books that can help answer any questions you may have about grooming in general or specifically:
- All-Breed Dog Grooming (TFH Publications, 1987): This grooming reference covers different breeds.
- Bring Me Home: Dogs Make Great Pets by yours truly Margaret H. Bonham (Howell Book House, 2005): This book includes tons of useful information about getting and owning a dog, if I do say so myself.
- Canine Terminology by Harold R. Spira (Dogwise Publishing, 2001): This book does a great job of defining the dog.
- Don’t Shoot the Dog! The New Art of Teaching and Training by Karen Pryor (Bantam Doubleday Dell, 1999): This is a good clicker training book.
- K-9 Structure and Terminology by Edward M. Gilbert, Jr., and Thelma R. Brown (Howell Book House, 1995): This book also helps define the dog.
- Poodle Clipping and Grooming: The International Reference by Shirlee Kalstone (Howell Book House, 2000): You got it – this is a great poodle clipping reference book.
- The Complete Dog Book: Official Publication of The American Kennel Club, 19th edition (Howell Book House, 1997): The book on AKC dog breeds.
- The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Dog Health and Nutrition by yours truly Margaret H. Bonham and James M. Wingert (Alpha Books, 2001): An excellent reference on canine health and nutrition.
- The Dog Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook, 3rd edition, by James M. Giffin, MD, and Liisa D. Carlson, DVM, (Howell Book House, 2000): An excellent reference on dog health.
- The Dog Repair Book by Ruth B. James, DVM, (Alpine Press, 1990): Another excellent reference on dog health.
- The Dry Dog Food Reference by Howard D. Coffman (Pig Dog Press, 1995): This reference is hard to find and slightly outdated, but you can order it from the publisher if you’re interested in the ingredients and nutritional content of dry dog food.
- The Merck Veterinary Manual, 8th edition, (Merck and Co, Inc., 1991): This is an excellent resource on dog health.
- Ultimate Dog Grooming by Eileen Geeson (Firefly Books, 2004): Another nice book on dog grooming.
by Margaret H.Bonham

Ten Best Ways to Make Grooming a Pleasant Experience

In This Chapter
  • Making grooming easy for you
  • Grooming your dog in comfort
  • Settling into an enjoyable time for dog and groomer alike
You may not believe it, but I’m here to tell you that grooming can be a fun time for you and your dog. You have plenty of tricks at your disposal, so in this chapter, I explain some of them and show you how you can make grooming fun and enjoyable (or at least tolerable) for you and your dog.

Getting into a Grooming Routine


Everyone complains about being in a rut. But some ruts actually can be good, especially when it comes to grooming. You see, dogs love routine, and when it comes to discovering what to expect from their owners, they’re masters at it. That should tell you right away that today you need to start a grooming routine. Every day at the same time, plan to do a grooming task, such as brushing out your dog’s coat, brushing his teeth, clipping his nails — whatever needs to be done.

Your grooming tasks don’t have to be major productions, like a full brush out, unless, of course, that’s what’s scheduled in your routine. Maybe you only need to clean your dog’s ears or brush his teeth. Whatever the case, if you establish a daily grooming routine, your dog will come to expect something every day at that time, and if you make those sessions fun (see the suggestions later in this chapter), your dog actually will enjoy them, too.
Tip
Pick up a white-board calendar and mark the grooming task you’re going to do each day. That’s right, schedule those tasks, so you know exactly what you’ll be doing and when. Then just do it. Here’s a sample week from my grooming calendar that you can use as a model:
  • Monday — Brush out Mishka
  • Tuesday — Brush Mishka’s teeth
  • Wednesday — Clean Mishka’s ears
  • Thursday — Brush out Mishka
  • Friday — Clip Mishka’s toenails
  • Saturday — Brush Mishka’s teeth
  • Sunday — Choose a task that needs to be performed
Depending on whether you have a hairless dog or one who needs to be clipped or stripped, your schedule is likely to be different than my sample calendar. If, for example, you have a corded breed (or a breed with doggie dreadlocks such as the Komondor or Puli), one of your daily tasks will be separating the cords rather than brushing. Similarly, if you have a dog who is blowing coat, or shedding, every day may be a brush-out day.
Remember
Be sure to keep a log of your grooming activities (a diary) every day, so you always know not only what you did that day, but also how your dog behaved and how much work you were able to do. Chapter What Good Grooming Is All About provides a sample diary to get you started.

Starting Out Small and Building Up


Rome wasn’t built in a day, or so the saying goes. Most dogs (and owners) are resistant to grooming, because it takes so darn long. Instead of putting you and your dog through a marathon grooming session, try starting out small.

Maybe your dog hates having his toenails trimmed. Try this: Trim toenails on only one paw today and maybe brush your dog a bit, and then tomorrow, do the next paw and brush him a bit more. As your dog becomes more tolerant of grooming, you can try doing two paws or adding more brushing. Otherwise, the longer you take, the more nervous your dog will become and the worse the struggle.

Taking Your Time While Grooming


One reason some dogs hate grooming is the way their owners handle them. Do you just start grabbing your dog and running a brush or comb through his fur, grumbling all the while that you just don’t have time to do this? Think about it. If you rush through grooming, your dog will look at it as a time when you’re hurried and possibly upset. Dogs pick up on your emotions pretty well. If you’re in a hurry to get done, the dog’s going to be in a hurry to get the heck out of there.
Warning!
Here’s another more important reason to take your time while grooming your dog: When you get in a hurry, you make mistakes, and some mistakes can be downright dangerous for your dog — like being in a hurry with clippers or with scissors. Any time you cause pain to your dog (such as clipping a toenail too short and cutting a quick), you solidify his attitude about not wanting to be groomed in whatever way you caused him pain.
Tip
Choose a time to groom your dog when you’re not in a rush — preferably later in the day when you’re done with work or school, a time when you don’t have any real commitments. Choosing a time later in the day also is good because that’s when your dog is a bit tired out and less likely to struggle with you.

Using the Right Equipment


Use the right tools for the job. (Yes, I’m using up all my clichés in this chapter!) Your grooming sessions will go much easier and smoother when you use the right equipment — not the worthless junk that someone gave to you as a hand-me-down. Although you can use any equipment that still is in good condition as long as it works with your particular dog, you should never use any equipment that just won’t get the job done.

For example, you don’t want to use a pin brush or a hound glove on long-coated or double-coated dogs, because they’re not intended for use with dogs that have those kinds of coats.

Oddly enough most owners insist on not getting a grooming table. Yes, the cost of a grooming table can be somewhat daunting — but so is the cost of visits to the doctor or chiropractor when you’ve wrenched your back from bending over too much. Do yourself a favor and get one.
Remember
Having all the right equipment in the world won’t help one iota unless what you’re using is within reach. Make sure your equipment is ready to go and within reach of the grooming area before you start grooming.

Controlling the Situation at All Times


Prior planning prevents poor performance. In the case of grooming, that means you need to be in control of your dog at all times during the grooming session. You don’t want to chase your dog all around the house while trying to brush him or give him a bath.

That means crating your dog when you’re unable to watch him and keeping him still with aids like a tub noose when you’re washing him or a head noose when you’re grooming him on the grooming table.

Restraining a dog for safety’s sake


If you’re fearful of being bitten during certain procedures, sometimes a quick muzzle, groomer’s muzzle, or veterinarian’s muzzle is the safest thing for you to use with your dog. I don’t necessarily recommend muzzling your dog, but if you have no choice other than being bitten, you may have to use one. Chapter It’s Showtime! Grooming a Dog for the Ring explains how to muzzle your dog.

If your dog continues to show aggressive tendencies, have her examined by a veterinarian to determine whether a health issue is at the root of the problem. If not, you can consult a dog behaviorist or trainer to evaluate your dog. You can find behaviorists and trainers who can help you at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) at www.apdt.com.
Warning!
Never leave a dog unattended in a noose at any time. Your dog can be strangled if left alone in one of them.
Check out Chapter Mastering Brushing and Bathing Basics for more information about showing your dog how to accept grooming.

Sparing Yourself the Agony: Ergonomics


Does your back hurt when you wash or brush your dog? Are your hands aching when you comb? Ergonomics is a fancy word that came into fashion in the 1980s when scientists in the workplace discovered that certain positions while sitting or standing and doing work are less prone to repetitive injury than others. Likewise, those same scientists discovered certain shapes for tools that fit better in your hands and cause less fatigue than others.
Tip
If you suffer from carpal tunnel, thoracic outlet, arthritis, fibromyalgia, back pain, or any other condition that severely affects your hands or back, consider buying tools that are ergonomically designed. Although they may be a bit more expensive, they’re well worth it.
If you suffer from back pain (or do not want to suffer from back pain in the future), consider these items:
- A raised groomer’s tub: Yes, a raised tub can be pretty expensive, but then how expensive is a bad back?
- Grooming steps or ramps: Steps or a ramp not only help get your dog to and from the tub or grooming table, they keep you from having to lift your dog into and onto them.
- Nonslip cushion mat: If you have hard floors, try putting a nonslip cushion mat on the floor where you walk or stand. Doing so helps with leg, hip, and back fatigue.
- A grooming table: Yes, I’ve belabored this point. I’ll stop now, but be sure to see Chapter Training Your Dog for Grooming.

Making Your Dog Comfortable


Do you like going to the dentist? Unless your dentist is one of those who can guarantee a painless visit, the answer is probably, “No.” Why? Well, besides the possibility of having your teeth drilled, chances are you aren’t comfortable going to the dentist. When you groom your dog, he often isn’t comfortable with what you’re doing and probably is thinking, “You’re going to comb around my WHAT?” or “Don’t you dare get near my paws with that clippie thing!” The upshot: Make your dog as comfortable as possible during each grooming session.
Remember
Temperature is important when performing any type of grooming procedure. Being too cold or too warm makes any dog upset. Be sure the temperature is just right for the air in the room and the water in the tub. Although you may find a hot bath relaxing, your pooch won’t; it’s too hot. Pour a tepid bath (just warm to the touch). Dogs don’t like cold showers, either.
So, the trick is to make your dog as comfortable as possible with the procedures and with where he sits and lies.
Tip
To make grooming a pleasant experience, try:
- Picking up some inexpensive rubber-backed rugs (nonskid, made for bathrooms) at a bath store or even the local discount department store. Appearance doesn’t matter because you’re going to lay them on your grooming table and in your dog’s crate. (Okay, maybe it does matter.)
- Giving your dog toys while he waits for you or even while you’re grooming him. Some dogs will even chew on those soft, plush toys while they’re being groomed. The toy helps ease his fears quite a bit.
- Caring for your dog’s needs before, after, and while grooming him. Your dog may be thirsty, hungry, or need to relieve himself. Nothing is worse than waiting for someone to finish working on you when you have to pee.
- Keeping bath temperatures tepid and keeping the room temperatures slightly warmer than usual while bathing your dog. Keep him warm and away from drafts, especially in cooler weather.
- Keeping your dog cool in the summer. Dogs can overheat easily.

Showing Your Dog that Grooming Is Fun


After reading that headline you’re probably thinking, “Yeah, right. How can a dog enjoy grooming?” Well, believe it or not, many dogs do enjoy it. They enjoy the attention they get from their owners and love being fussed over.

Dogs that love grooming aren’t born that way; they’re made. They’ve been brought up being groomed regularly and taught that grooming is a special time with their owners.
Tip
You can try the following to make your grooming more fun:
- Starting your grooming session after a vigorous play session — when your dog is a bit tired.
- Giving your dog plenty of pets and praise and a treat or two while you’re working on him.
- Avoiding anything that may cause pain. It takes only one painful experience to make him change his mind about grooming.
- Giving him plenty of praise and perhaps a special treat or toy when you’re done with grooming your dog.

Procrastination = Grooming Nightmare


Maintaining a well-groomed coat is easier than trying to groom out a tangled mess — any professional groomer will tell you that. Keep your dog’s coat well groomed (make a grooming schedule like the one suggested in the earlier section on “Getting into a Grooming Routine”), and you’ll never have a grooming nightmare. Even if you have a schedule that has you grooming your dog once or twice a week, that’s better than not doing it at all.

If you’ve been procrastinating, the best thing is to have a professional groomer take care of the problem first so your dog has a coat you can maintain.

Don’t Worry, Be Happy: Keeping It Upbeat


Lastly, keep your grooming sessions positive and upbeat. Being angry and grumpy makes for an unhappy dog and only frustrates you. Never groom your dog while angry or frustrated.

If you can’t be upbeat while grooming, skip the grooming session for today and try tomorrow or just do a quick brush over or quick exam. Then give your dog a treat for being so good and curl up on the couch with him with some ice cream and watch your favorite movie. I guarantee doing so will improve your outlook and make for a better grooming session tomorrow.

by Margaret H.Bonham

Ten Timesaving Grooming Tips

In This Chapter
  • Making grooming easy for you
  • Getting around certain grooming problems
Grooming is time-consuming — there’s no doubt about it. Lucky for you, I’ve got some handy tricks you can use to speed up the time you spend on grooming your dog.

The tips that I give you in this chapter are little tricks of the grooming trade that I’ve picked up through the years that I love being able to share with you. The tips focus on grooming your pet; if you want tips for grooming your dog especially for the show ring, check out Chapter Going Pro: Starting a Dog Grooming Business.

Use No-Rinse Shampoo for Touchups


You’ve groomed your dog to perfection, but now your dog has pooped and left something hanging around behind. Or maybe he’s gone through the mud or picked up some dirt — from where, you don’t know. What to do? What to do?

Someone must’ve had this problem right before his or her in-laws arrived for a visit, because plenty of no-rinse shampoos (often called blue shampoo because of its color) are available for you to use to clean small areas of your dog’s coat in a pinch.

Simply use a sponge or paper towels to wet, apply the no-rinse shampoo, and scrub the affected area clean. Then you can use your comb or slicker brush to puff-up the hair so it dries (or use a doggie blow-dryer).

Keep a Rubber Basin Handy for Quick Cleanups


If you don’t already have a portable rubber sink or basin (like the kind people use to use while doing dishes by hand), buy one! It’s perfect for doing messy jobs like spot cleanings and clippings, and it localizes the mess and reduces the need for cleanup.

Having a rubber basin around is good when you have to clean off your dog’s paws, for example. You can pour blue shampoo or water and some regular doggie shampoo in it and stick your dog’s feet in, washing them one at a time — if need be. For small dogs, the rubber sink also serves as an emergency wash basin.

You can put a small dog in the basin when you’re clipping his coat. Doing so helps contain and capture the falling hair as it comes off. If your dog is larger, you can use your rubber basin as a catch-all as you groom your dog from one section to the next.
Tip
The basin also makes a handy-dandy catch-all for storing all of your quick cleanup supplies.

Grind Rather Than Clip Your Dog’s Nails


So your dog hates nail clippers. One solution that a breeder suggests is using a nail grinder (similar to a Dremel rotary tool) on your dog’s toenails. (I don’t know why some dogs prefer grinding to clipping, they just do.) A bonus is that you don’t have to file rough edges.
Warning!
Two caveats:
- Beware that you can grind too much. A friend who is a veterinarian told me how a client overused her grinder and ground her dog’s nails too far, eventually causing a serious infection. She ground the nails into the quick, and the grinder cauterized the bleeding nails, so the owner wasn’t alerted to the problem. The infection passed from the grinder into the nails and into the dog’s bloodstream. Regardless of how you trim your dog’s nails, always be mindful of where the quick is.
- Grinders can get caught in your dog’s hair and rip it out. Tools made especially for grinding dog’s nails are available. These grinders automatically stop when they get caught in the dog’s hair — before they rip it out.

Brush Regularly to Keep Fido’s Breath Fresh and Teeth Clean


If your dog has bad breath and hasn’t eaten anything rancid (like poop), you need to schedule an appointment with the veterinarian, because bad breath is a sign of more serious problems, including gingivitis or a bad tooth. In some cases, it’s a sign of a more serious disease, like cancer.

In any event, you need to brush your dog’s teeth at least once a week (preferably every day) and give him good toys made to clean his teeth — always. My dogs like hard rubber and nylon toys that have nubs or grooves on them for teeth cleaning. You can add a bit of doggie toothpaste to help keep them clean between brushings.

Employ Snoods and Hoods to Keep Clean


Many long-haired dogs experience problems with keeping their beautiful coats clean. Pet and show dog owners have come up with a solution called a snood. A snood is a type of wrap-around cloth that keeps the dog’s ears and hair from getting dirty. You can purchase or make your own snoods by sewing together some stretch fabric to fit around your dog’s neck.

If you’re concerned about your dog’s legs getting icky with under brush or piddle, you can either sew some simple leg protectors that wrap around your dog’s hind legs or find some inexpensive stretch socks and snip the toes out of them so you can slide them over your dog’s legs. You obviously must gauge the size of the sock to your dog’s legs. You can buy leg cuffs like these at pet supply stores; they prevent male dogs from wetting on themselves and cover Poodle bracelets, the unclipped fur around that breed’s feet.

You can also prevent long hair from dragging along the ground when your pooch goes outside for a potty or play break. Simply wrap a towel or cloth loosely around your dog’s waist and clip the ends of the towel together with a potato chip bag clip (found where kitchen supplies are sold). Use the small bag clips and be careful not to catch any of the dog’s hair or skin in them.

Keep Your Pooch in a Pet Cut


Although you should never be in a hurry while clipping your dog’s coat, you may be looking for the best way to tidy up his fur coat without much hassle. Use the pet cut that I describe in Chapter Spiffing Up Short- and Medium-Coated Breeds for occasionally cleaning up or trimming your dog’s coat between major clippings.


Before you do that, however, invest in some snap-on guide combs for your clippers. Using guide combs is an easy way to make sure you have an even cut without much muss or fuss. Choose the hair length you want, snap the guide onto your clippers, and you’re off!

Add Beautiful Shine to Your Dog’s Coat


Is your dog’s coat dull and drab? If you have a dog with a short coat, you can perk it up with an oil-based coat conditioner. Sometimes lanolin or mink oil works well. Spread a small amount in your palms and rub them together before rubbing your hands all over your dog’s coat. Then, finish up with a hound glove, which is a grooming mitt for short-coated dogs (see Chapter Training Your Dog for Grooming).

If your dog’s coat is long, spray the conditioner liberally throughout the hair and then comb or brush it through the coat.
Tip
Use common sense when applying conditioner. Be sure to use a conditioner that’s made for your dog’s coat, and check the package for recommendations on its use. There is such a thing as too much, particularly with regard to spray conditioners. You can overspray and cause a big mess, because it can streak or stain clothing or furnishings if your dog likes to rub up against them.

Enjoy a Refreshing Blast


Sometimes your dog doesn’t, well, smell like a rose. When you can’t bathe him, or company is due to arrive any minute, you can make him smell good anyway by using any one of the doggie scents sold at pet supply stores. Bodifier and coat dressing often work in a pinch, too. This quick fix for a smelly dog won’t get your dog clean, but it will make him a little nicer to be around.
Warning!

Always follow label directions. Don’t spray in the face or near the eyes of your dog. When applying any products to your dog’s face (if the product is safe for that purpose), first spray it on a cloth and then gently wipe around your dog’s head, avoiding the eyes, nose, and mouth. Note: Scents, bodifiers, and coat dressing will do nothing for skunk odor. Check out Chapter The Skinny on Hairy Health Issues for how to get rid of that funky problem.

Perform a Quick Hair Pickup


After you clean your dog, you may wonder how to clean up all that dog hair. Have no fear; pet-hair pickups can help you. Try using the rollers equipped with two-sided tape rather than the ones that you have to rinse to clean and reactivate. My own experience has been that the rinse-and-use rollers lose their stickiness after a while, so it’s better to go with the more reliable peel-off, tape-type rollers.

Substitute in a Pinch


What happens if you don’t have the right shampoo and conditioner for your kind of dog? Can you substitute other kinds?

In a pinch, yes. You don’t want to use other shampoos and conditioners that aren’t meant for dogs too often because they also don’t have the proper pH-balance for their coats. You can occasionally substitute the following:
- Human shampoo for dog shampoo.
- Human conditioner for dog conditioner.
- Plain Ivory or Dawn hand-dishwashing soap for dog shampoo.
Warning!
Don’t use any other dishwashing soap except plain Ivory or Dawn hand-dishwashing soap on your dog’s coat, and when you do, use it sparingly.
- A blow-dryer intended for human hair as long as it has a “no-heat” setting, which can be used as a substitute for a dog blow-dryer.
by Margaret H.Bonham

Ten Popular Myths About Grooming Dogs

In This Chapter
  • Exploring the myths of grooming your dog
  • Discovering why some myths have a basis in fact
  • Spotting a bogus statement
Everyone’s heard the urban legends about dogs. Unfortunately, you’ve probably heard so many strange stories through the years that you’re likely to take some of them as fact even though they’re fiction.

In this chapter, I bust a few of those myths about dogs. You may have heard these stories as truth, or you may have told them yourself. Now it’s time to find out which ones are works of overactive imaginations.

Never Bathe Your Dog Unless He Is Really Dirty


A myth that I hear all the time is that you shouldn’t bathe your dog unless he’s dirty, because you’ll dry out his coat or his coat needs those vital oils, or something to that effect.

If you show dogs, you know that claim just isn’t true. But when you delve deeper into this myth, you find that at one time, it was true, primarily because shampoos weren’t formulated to be pH-balanced with a dog’s skin. Today’s shampoos and conditioners for dogs are so well formulated that you can wash your dog every day without problems. You just have to make sure the shampoo you’re using is pH-balanced.

At one time, everyone believed that taking baths or showers every day was bad. It isn’t — we got over it and moved on. You can wash your dog whenever you want to now and not dry out his coat.

Certain Breeds Are Hypoallergenic


The popular myth that only certain dogs’ coats are hypoallergenic and won’t affect human allergies to dogs only recently started its rounds. This myth has become quite popular with the advent of designer dogs, that is crossbred dogs that come from two different breeds — Poodle + Labrador = Labradoodle.

The reasoning behind claims that dogs sport hypoallergenic coats is pretty simple. Poodles and other single-coated dogs don’t shed as much as dogs with double coats do. So if you breed a Poodle with another breed, you’ll have a shed-free dog — or so logic goes.

So is this one truly a myth or is it factual? Well, yes and no, but peoples’ allergies are far more complex than that. Here’s why hypoallergenic coats are a fallacy:
- People who are allergic to dogs aren’t necessarily allergic to dog hair or even the dander produced by the dog’s skin. They’re often allergic to a protein the dog carries around, and thus they’re often allergic to the dog’s saliva.
- Because people with dog allergies react differently to different dogs, those people may be allergic to certain dogs and not allergic to other types of dogs. No one breed of dog, however, is hypoallergenic.
- Single-coated dog breeds tend to shed less, but they still lose hair and produce dander.
- A crossbred dog like a Labradoodle may not be shed free — genetics can produce a full range from dogs that don’t shed much to dogs that shed a bundle.
If you find that you have dog allergies, you need to work with an allergist, so that you’re better able to cope with the grooming tasks you need to perform on your dog. If the allergist says that you shouldn’t have a dog, you can always argue that he doesn’t tell people not to have trees or grass in their yards when they’re allergic to them, so why can’t he work toward making you more comfortable around your dog?
Tip
That said, some types of dogs seem to be more easily tolerated by people with allergies. If you’re allergic and trying to find the type of dog your allergies can tolerate, your best bet before purchasing one is to visit the home of someone who has the kind of dog you’re considering to find out whether you can tolerate it at home.

Lamb and Rice Is a Good Food for Coats


The lamb-and-rice/good coat myth is interesting in that it started when vets prescribed lamb-and-rice–based dog foods for dogs whose owners were looking for relief from skin allergies for their pooches. At the time, the lamb-and-rice diet was a novel protein and carbohydrate source to which dogs were not allergic. Suddenly hot spots disappeared, and all the skin conditions went away. So, breeders and pet owners began believing the lamb-and-rice combination was the miracle dog food for coats. Dog food companies naturally complied with the demand, providing lamb-and-rice dog food for consumers.
Remember
A lamb-and-rice diet isn’t any better for your dog than any other dog food. The reason it worked so well at the beginning was because the ingredients were novel; dogs never had eaten the lamb and rice in tandem before and therefore hadn’t had a chance to develop any allergies to it. Guess what happened when lamb and rice went mainstream? Dogs were fed the lamb-and-rice diet for generations, and they developed allergies to it. So the magic that was in lamb and rice is no more. It no longer is a hypoallergenic diet.

Tomato Juice Gets Rid of Skunk Odor


If you’ve checked out Chapter The Skinny on Hairy Health Issues, you know the answer to this one. If you wash a skunked dog in tomato juice, you get a stinky pink dog!
Technical Stuff
A skunk’s spray is made up of a number of stinky compounds called thiols. Thiols are the same things that make decomposing flesh and dog poop stink, but those thiols aren’t necessarily the same ones that are in skunk spray. Skunks usually produce about two tablespoons of the stuff — enough for six quick shots. If a skunk actually dumps all of it, the skunk needs a week or two to recharge.
Most people think the tomato juice bath works because eventually the stench assaults your nostrils so badly that your brain actually starts getting used to it. So after several minutes of stink, the skunk smell really won’t smell as bad as it does to someone who has just been exposed to it.

You can successfully handle skunk spray only in a handful of ways, and they’re covered in Chapter The Skinny on Hairy Health Issues.

Dogs Naturally Have Bad Breath


Your dog doesn’t have to have bad breath. The myth that surrounds doggie breath stems from people who think that dogs are naturally supposed to have bad breath — and that just isn’t true. Your dog’s breath needs to be kissably sweet, except, of course, when he’s been eating something vile or disgusting.

If your dog’s breath constantly stinks like a sewer, it can be a more serious problem — tooth and gum troubles. It may be that your dog has an even more serious problem — like oral cancer. So when you detect a constant odor, it’s time for a trip to the vet for a checkup.

Raw Egg Is Good for Your Dog’s Coat


Here’s another old wives’ tale: Giving your dog a raw egg is good for his coat. Yes, eggs are great protein sources and full of vitamins and minerals, so nothing is wrong with treating your dog to an egg from time to time, but raw egg contains raw egg whites, which can cause a biotin deficiency, which, in turn, can cause hair loss, among other things.

When you cook an egg, you make the egg white safe for doggie consumption, and it no longer binds with biotin. You can give your dog a cooked egg as a wonderful treat anytime, but saying that it’s better than having a balanced diet is ridiculous. You can do more for your dog’s coat by feeding him a balanced diet.

Never, Ever Shave Your Dog’s Coat


This myth is one of the partially true ones. When you shave a dog, you expose the skin to the elements and leave it unprotected. For example, for long-coated and double-coated dogs, shaving your dog’s coat in the summer isn’t a great idea. Those dogs normally shed out their undercoats, leaving the top coat for protection against the sun’s rays, and besides, the area from which the undercoat is missing actually helps cool the dog against the hot sun.

However, shaving a dog’s coat sometimes is warranted — no way around it. These times include:
- If the breed standard calls for shaving the dog. Poodles and other breeds fall into this category. The types of coats they have require such grooming.
- When dreadful mats occur throughout the dog’s hair. In some cases, the dog has to be shaved to enable a healthy new coat to grow in.
- Skin conditions or other problems arise. You may be forced to shave your dog’s coat so you can treat these problems.
When you do have to shave a dog, you need to realize that what you’re doing is taking away his natural protection. As a result, you’ll have to add back that protection in the form of something like a T-shirt or sweater depending on the climate. Note: Dogs can get sunburned, so if you have a bare dog, you’re going to have to use a good quality sunscreen (either one intended for humans or one developed for dogs, which you can find online).

Shaving a dog isn’t the best thing in the world for the dog, but with a little care you can make it work.

Garlic and Brewer’s Yeast Get Rid of Fleas


A myth out there that purports that garlic and brewer’s yeast get rid of fleas is so wrong, it’s almost funny. Brewer’s yeast has plenty of B-vitamins and other good things for your dog, but it’s completely wrong when it comes to controlling fleas. Oddly enough, when companies that make flea and tick products want to grow fleas, they do it in brewer’s yeast — so brewer’s yeast doesn’t kill fleas at all.

What about garlic? Well, when it comes to blood suckers, garlic may keep away vampires (the science is inconclusive), but it won’t do much for fleas. A proven systemic flea-control product (either topical or oral) works much better and more efficiently than these old wives’ tale cures.

Never Use Human Shampoo on Dogs


This myth also is another of the partially true ones. Using human shampoos on dogs isn’t a great idea, because they’re not formulated for a dog’s coat. However, in a pinch when you have nothing else, you can use human shampoo on a dog’s coat. Just make sure that it isn’t medicated and that you rinse it really well. Using a human shampoo all the time can dry out a dog’s coat, but once in a while isn’t going to hurt anything. If you’re faced with a dirty dog and no doggie shampoo, go ahead and use your own. Just don’t get in the habit of using it all the time.

A Dog’s Saliva Has Fewer Germs than a Human’s


You probably heard that dogs’ mouths are cleaner than human mouths a million times while growing up — I know I did. The myth generally goes something like this: A dog’s saliva somehow has healing properties and has fewer germs than a human mouth. I remember people sagely claiming this one while a dog was licking a wound on his leg or maybe licking a kid’s face.

Well, I have news for you. It isn’t true.

Now before all you dog lovers throw rocks at my house and flood my mailbox with hate mail, let me explain. In most cases, dogs don’t carry the same diseases that humans do, so in that respect, their saliva is somewhat safer. But dogs have plenty of bacteria and other germs in their mouths that can cause an infection as bad as anything else. In fact, dogs have an enzyme in their mouths that actually breaks down skin tissue. I’ve been bitten enough times to know that the first thing the doctor worries about in a dog bite is infection. Left untreated, a dog bite can cause a serious infection called cellulitis. One untreated bite I suffered caused my finger to swell up twice its normal size, and I needed serious treatment that included antibiotics and painful hydrogen peroxide soaks.

Veterinarians who treat cuts on any dog will tell you to prevent your dog from licking his wounds. In fact, the vet will put an Elizabethan collar (E-collar) on your dog to prevent him from licking his wounds and keep him from getting infected.

You may wonder where the dog saliva myth came from. I do, too. I’m guessing that in the old days before pet owners understood about keeping wounds clean, they watched dogs clean their wounds. The dogs probably did a better job of cleaning their wounds than their human counterparts, who perhaps didn’t clean their wounds, which then became infected. So somebody decided that dogs just naturally did better because of their saliva. When faced with a dirty wound or at least one with no dirt in it, the saliva probably was better than nothing, and the enzyme within the dog’s mouth probably helped get rid of the bad stuff in the wound. But in a modern age of veterinary medicine, leave the licking to face washes and not to trying to heal a wound or skin condition.

by Margaret H.Bonham

Going Pro: Starting a Dog Grooming Business

In This Chapter
  • Discovering what it takes to start your own grooming business
  • Finding out what kind of certifications you need
  • Setting up shop
  • Attracting and keeping new customers
You’ve been grooming your dog for some time and find that you really enjoy doing it. And while helping your friends groom their dogs, too, maybe they’ve handed you $20 or so to keep Fifi looking great. Everyone says you ought to turn pro, but should you?

Then again, maybe you’re looking for a career move. You like working with dogs, and you’ve heard that you can earn a pretty decent wage grooming them. Maybe the idea of being your own boss sounds appealing, but how do you go about it?

In this chapter, I tell you what it’s like to turn pro and to start your own business in the field of dog grooming. You’ll find out various pitfalls of working for yourself, and I help you determine whether you really can do it.

Deciding Whether Professional Grooming Is Right for You


Now that you’ve honed your dog grooming skills, you’re finding that the oohs and ahhs recognizing your beautiful dog are turning to dollars and cents. The word is spreading, and those neighbors who once slipped you some cash for doing a good job taking care of their pooches now are telling all their friends about you. You’re almost there, right? You’re almost in business for yourself.

Tallying up how much groomers make


Arguably, you can make pretty good money as a pet groomer. In a 2004 survey of more than 3,000 respondents, PetGroomer.com found that 31 percent of respondents made $30,000 to $50,000 a year, and 40 percent made $50,000 to $75,000 a year. Twelve percent made less than $30,000, and 17 percent made more than that in gross business earnings. These amounts don’t account for business expenses, but 60 percent of the groomers who were self-employed said they made between $20,000 and $40,000 before taxes and after business expenses.

Well, almost. However, running a business is a bit more than hanging out a shingle and setting up shop. You must deal with customers, marketing, and with rules and regulations governing businesses. And, of course, you need to know about the liabilities associated with opening your own business. But first, you need to check out all the pros and cons of owning your own business.

Weighing the pros and cons of starting a grooming business


Owning your own business can be a dream come true or a nightmare, depending on your willingness to work and your entrepreneurial spirit. Here are some valid reasons for wanting to own your own grooming business:
  • You like being your own boss.
  • You like setting your own hours.
  • You hate having your paycheck limited by a boss or a company.
  • You want to have control over your success (and failure).
  • You want the freedom to work when you choose and where you choose.
  • You can choose who you work with.
  • You enjoy challenges.
  • You love working with and meeting people and dogs.
Many other reasons exist for becoming a business owner, but the ones in this list are the main ones.

Just as there are positives for becoming a business owner, here also are some of the negatives to owning a business:
- Cash flow typically is uncertain and can be unsteady.
- Someone (you or someone you hire) needs to do the bookkeeping chores and pay taxes.
- Your income must be reported to the IRS, and you’re double-taxed for Social Security.
- You need to work long hours, lift heavy objects (dogs included), and risk possible injury.
- You run the risk of being bitten — not all dogs are nice.
- You may have to deal with snarky or downright rude pet owners.
- If you’re sick or take a vacation, nobody is paying you.
- You must have investment or start-up capital (money) to get your business off the ground. Depending on the type of business, it can run a few thousand to several thousand dollars.
- Bad things happen to businesses all the time, which are not your fault: burglaries, disasters, or other problems can mean lost money and time.
- You have to maintain insurance coverage and pay proper bonding fees because you may be sued for injuring a dog or for other business practices.
- You have to work not just with dogs but also with their owners — and that isn’t always pleasant.
- The first year is often low pay or no pay, so you have to stay motivated, even during lousy times when the business isn’t doing so well.
- You have no safety net — you either sink or swim.
You may be thinking, “Wow, that sure is a bunch of negatives,” and you’d be right. That’s why not everyone owns their own business, but instead some choose to work for someone else or another company.

Considering whether you’re ready to be the boss


Before you get too embroiled with the thought of having your own business, you need to find out whether you have the time, money, and ability needed to start a business.

If you’re currently unemployed, time isn’t so much a factor, but if you have a full-time day job, planning to start a grooming business on the side may take up what little time you have left.

Money is a requirement, too. Can you get the loans necessary to start your business from a bank? Or do you have enough cash stockpiled? Or maybe you have friends or family willing to invest in your business? In most cases, you’ll need thousands of dollars to get started.

Where are you planning to work in your grooming business? Out of your home? In a separate shop someplace? Or are you going to be a mobile groomer? The cheapest (and most inconvenient) is to work from home, but doing so can have drawbacks, such as obtaining the proper zoning and deciding whether your neighborhood permits home-based businesses. A separate shop costs quite a bit in rent and refurbishing, and a mobile salon requires at least a van or an SUV with enough room to carry all your supplies.

Foremost, starting a business and working for yourself take a mind-boggling amount of effort. Taking a day off here and there is fine, provided you have the money to carry you through. However, when you own your own business, you can’t just call in sick on a day when your schedule is filled with customers. And don’t forget the paperwork, the taxes, and of course, dealing with clients. When you’re the boss you have to wear many different hats.

Evaluating the need in your area


This question may seem a little strange, but even if you have the ability and the money to start a new business, should you? Part of being successful in a business is fulfilling a need. First you need to assess where you intend to operate your business to find out whether a market exists for your services and whether much competition already exists there. If several groomers are in your area, you need to determine whether there’s room for another one.
Tip
Check out the Yellow Pages or an online directory to search for dog groomers and see who is working in your area. If you find fewer groomers than you’d expect, then perhaps the time is right to start a business in the area. If not, perhaps you need to look for a business owner nearby who is looking for help.
The other problem is if there are lots of groomers in your area, you may be forced into a price structure that is comparable or at least competitive with what is out there. If fact, you may have to offer lower rates to entice pet owners to use your business when there are established businesses in your area.

Sometimes pairing yourself with a veterinarian or a pet supply store can help get your business off the ground. Although you may have to sacrifice some money that you’d normally make, you nevertheless develop a clientele that you may be able to take with you if you choose to open up your own shop.
Warning!
A perceived lack of groomers may signal another problem. In some places, dog owners may consider that grooming is just for froufrou dogs or a luxury they can’t afford. Do your research and find out before investing time and money in a business that no one wants to patronize.

Training


You may have heard that you need to be certified to groom dogs professionally. Actually, you don’t have to be certified to be a groomer or open a grooming business, but certification looks good to savvy customers and ensures that you’re up-to-date with the latest techniques.

But to be able to consider yourself a professional groomer, regardless of whether you’re certified, you need to hone your skills through training that you can get nearly anywhere. You can be self-taught, learning grooming skills by working on your own, your friends’ and other people’s dogs; you can be hired on with another groomer who’s interested in getting some help in exchange for teaching you how to groom; or you can attend a formal grooming school or take correspondence courses. The sections that follow weigh the pros and cons of each training option.
Remember
No training method alone is better than another. How you develop your skills depends on how much time and effort you put into improving your skills and your willingness to learn the trade.

Heading back to school


If you’re serious about diving headlong into becoming a professional groomer, you can take grooming classes at a grooming school. Grooming schools provide major advantages, but they also have some disadvantages. The advantages are that you can
- Learn grooming in a hands-on, structured environment.
- Learn the trade from the pros who are intent on teaching you how to groom a pet properly and safely.
- Focus on classes you want to take in addition to the basic instruction.
- Receive feedback. You know how well you’re doing or whether you need to work harder.
- Earn certifications from some of the schools, or you can at least earn a diploma.
- Discover how to be a pro groomer in a definitive amount of time.
The disadvantages of grooming school are that they’re
- Costly. Most schools are pretty expensive. Some have financial aid for students.
- Not always conveniently located. If one isn’t close by, you have to either move or at least spend some time at the school, thus uprooting your household.
- Not always easy to attend while working a second job.
- Schools. Remember tests? Lectures? More tests? Long hours of studying?
- Competitive. You may be surprised to know there’s a fair amount of pressure to do well.
Okay, so you’re convinced school is the way for you to go. Now, where do you find good grooming schools? You can contact:
- The National Dog Groomers Association of America (NDGAA), www.nationaldoggroomers.com, 724-962-2711.
- International Professional Groomers (IPG), www.nanhall.com/grmipg.htm, 847-758-1938.
- International Society of Canine Cosmetologists (ISCC), www.petstylist.com/ISCC/ISCCMain.htm, 972-414-9715.
- PetGroomer.com, www.petgroomer.com.
Tip
If you want your schooling to include certification of your grooming skills, check out the first three Web sites in the previous list. They explain what certification is, offer programs aimed at certification, and tell you where and when you can take grooming certification exams.
Another way you can find a grooming school online is to use DexOnline.com or search for “schools” on a favorite Web search engine.

Going to school isn’t a picnic, so if you decide to follow this route, be sure the school you attend is the right one for you. Here are some questions to ask:
- Is the school licensed and accredited? If so, by whom? Schools that are licensed and accredited are likely to give you good training and not be a rip off.
- Do graduates of the program receive certification or diplomas after successfully completing the course?
- Does the school teach grooming only for dogs or does it incorporate the grooming needs of other pets?
- How long does it take to complete the coursework?
- How long has the school been in existence?
- Who teaches the classes? What credentials do they have? Can you talk to the teachers?
- How much is tuition? What other purchases do you have to make?
- Can the school provide any references (graduates, groomers, teachers, and so on)?
Tip
Ask other groomers you know whether they’ve heard of the school and what its reputation is like. You don’t want to spend a lot of money only to find out that your diploma isn’t worth the paper it’s printed on.

Taking correspondence courses


Correspondence courses are another way to get training. They are much like teaching yourself, except that you usually have a mentor or someone whom you can ask questions and give you appropriate feedback. You’ve probably seen commercials on TV for courses such as Thomson Education Direct (www.educationdirect.com, 800-275-4410). I actually wrote a couple of course books on its Dog Trainer/Obedience Instructor courses, so I know a little bit about them. Other correspondence schools are out there, but before you choose one, make sure that it’s licensed and accredited.

Many correspondence courses make use of booklets, tests, and videos. The downside to these courses, however, is that you don’t get the hands-on training that a regular school environment provides. By the same token, correspondence courses enable you to learn at your own pace.

Taking a correspondence course has its own distinct pros and cons. The positive sides are - Taking the course in your spare time, without quitting your current job or leaving home.
- Getting feedback through tests and other evaluations (you usually send in videos and photos for evaluation).
- Avoiding travel to faraway grooming schools.
- Learning at your own pace.
- Receiving a certification and sometimes accreditation when you complete the course.
- Having someone to ask questions, get advice from, and in general, serve as your mentor while taking the course. In many correspondence courses, some schools have on-staff experts who are available via phone and e-mail for consultation.
The downsides of correspondence courses are that they:
- Lack a teacher. Not having anyone to actually teach you can be rough.
- Can be expensive.
- Take longer than if you were trained at a school.
- May let you fall through the cracks; your mistakes may not be caught.
- Rely on testing that can put (undo) pressure on you.
- May not be reputable nor prestigious.
Warning!
The biggest downside to correspondence courses is finding out whether they’re truly reputable and legitimate. After all, you don’t want to spend a boatload of money and have nothing to show for it. Ask around.
Tip
One place to look for correspondence courses is on PetGroomer.com (www.petgroomer.com).
After you compile a list of correspondence courses, call them up and ask questions. Here are some questions you may want to ask:
- Are the courses licensed and accredited? If so, by whom?
- Do you receive certification or diplomas after successfully completing the course?
- Do the courses apply only to dog grooming or do they incorporate grooming needs of other pets?
- How long does it take to complete the coursework?
- How long has this correspondence course existed? How long has the school been in existence?
- Is the school a member of the Better Business Bureau? (If so, contact the BBB and ask about complaints.)
- Who wrote the courses (what are their credentials)? Were they written by one or several professionals?
- Can the school provide any references (graduates, groomers, teachers, and so on)?
You may also want to ask any professional groomers you know whether they’ve heard of the correspondence course and what their opinions of it are.

Working for an established groomer


Nothing is like hands-on experience when it comes to learning how to do something. What better way to find out about grooming than to work for a professional groomer who can show you the ropes?

Finding a groomer who’s willing to take you on may be as easy as walking into a grooming shop or answering a want ad. If you currently have a groomer, she may be a good place to start. Otherwise, you may have to get a little more creative. Asking veterinarians or dog trainers in your area may turn up something.

Working for a groomer has its benefits and pitfalls. Some of the benefits are:
- Getting to watch a professional groomer at work using all the techniques that you’re hoping to learn.
- Having someone watch over you and show you new skills and point out when you’re doing something wrong.
- Earning money while you learn.
- No real studying; just hands-on experience.
- Having someone to ask questions and get advice.
The downsides to working for a groomer are:
- Low pay. Need I say more?
- Scut work. You may be relegated to cleaning floors and tubs and other dirty jobs.
- Poor or inflexible hours. You’re working according to a schedule someone else has dictated. It’s a job, and you have to treat it as such.
- More scrutiny. When you mess up, the groomer may not look so kindly on you. After all, you’re affecting her business!
- Less of an opportunity to do actual grooming than you expect. You may not get to watch the groomer groom dogs because you’re so busy cleaning crates or mopping the floors. Granted you’ll see the whole side of grooming, but you may not learn as much as you’d hoped.
- You can have personality clashes with the groomer.
Warning!
Quitting a high-paying position to go to work for a groomer in an entry-level, minimum wage job can be devastating, especially if you find out that you’re not really cut out for grooming. Also, be aware that if you do work, you must be paid. That’s an employment law in the United States. You must be paid at least minimum wage for each hour you work. Don’t let anyone trick you into thinking that this kind of work is an internship for which you don’t get paid. If you work, you get paid.

Home-schooling yourself


One of the ways you can learn about dog grooming is to teach yourself. It’s a fairly inexpensive method. You buy some books, and you practice on your dog and your friends’ dogs to find out how to do some techniques.

The positives of home schooling are that you:
- Teach yourself in your spare time without quitting your current job or leaving home.
- Don’t have to take any tests and have no real pressure.
- Don’t have the expenses associated with attending school or taking a correspondence course. You learn by reading books, watching videos, and trying the techniques out on your dog.
- Avoid travel to faraway grooming schools. Home schooling is good for folks who live in the country where groomers may be rare.
- Learn at your own pace.
- Create your own well-blended education by being able to learn from many different books and methods.
The downsides of teaching yourself are that you:
- Have no one to show you whether you’re doing something wrong.
- Won’t have the opportunity to work on as many different breeds and different dogs as you would in a school environment.
- Can’t rely on an expert being close at hand to answer your questions.
- Won’t receive any accreditation or certification.
- Take more time than if you trained with a school.

Getting Down to Business


Opening a dog-grooming business, regardless of whether it’s in your home or in a shop at one of the local strip malls, means that you must take care of some legal matters, such as choosing just how you want to operate your business.

Choosing how to set up your business


You must choose between three ways that you can operate as a professional groomer. You can do business as a sole proprietor, as an incorporated entity, or as a limited liability company. All three have advantages and disadvantages.
Tip
Before you embark on any business endeavor, however, you need to seek the advice of an accountant or perhaps even an attorney who is familiar with setting up businesses.

Stepping out on your own as a sole proprietor


A sole proprietorship is the easiest way to start a business, but it’s also the most risky. In essence, you hang out your shingle and get paid by customers. The money you make is yours to keep, and you don’t have to mess with separate tax identification numbers and whatnot. What could be easier? Well, read on.
Warning!
The downside to opening for business as a sole proprietorship is that anything that you do wrong can make your personal assets (the house, the car) vulnerable. Lawsuits will be aimed directly at you and not against an entity like a corporation.

Big business: Incorporating


The second way you can operate your grooming business is as a corporation.Various types of corporations exist, but for the moment, I’ll discuss the S Corporation. Many small businesses are S Corporations, because operating as one provides good protection, and the business entity can be sold, if need be.

The downside to incorporating is contending with the paperwork and the number of hoops you must jump through to get one started. Keep in mind that some types of corporations can be taxed more than individuals, so be sure that you talk to your accountant before deciding whether and how to incorporate.

The limited liability company


A fairly new way of doing business, the limited liability company (LLC) blends together parts of doing business as a corporation and as a sole proprietor. An LLC enables one or two people to operate a business like a sole proprietorship in some ways and like a corporation in others. However, because not all states recognize LLCs and not all LLCs are the same, be sure to talk to someone who’s experienced at setting one up before you decide to take this route with your grooming business.

Creating a business plan


When you start thinking about operating a business, you need to put together a business plan. All successful businesses have one, and even a vague plan is better than no plan at all. By putting down where you want to go and choosing the methods you’ll use to get there, you’ll be ahead of your competition.

For example, your business plan needs to specify what type of grooming business you want to open. It needs to say whether you’re operating:
  • A home-based business where you groom out of your home.
  • A standalone grooming business usually with only one groomer.
  • A small to medium business with employees who groom.
  • A mobile grooming business.
  • A business adjacent to a veterinarian, training facility, boarding kennels, or pet supply store.
Think about which type of grooming business you’d like and determine whether you’d like to offer other services, such as training, boarding, or supplies. The clearer you are about what your business will be, the more successful you’re likely to be.

An accountant can help you formulate a business plan, or check out Business Plans For Dummies by Paul Tiffany and Steven D. Peterson (Wiley) for more information.

Securing licensing


Currently none of the 50 states in the United States require groomers to be licensed. In fact, anyone can become a professional groomer as long as he or she fills out the right forms. It’s as simple as opening up a shop and hanging out a sign.

Depending on the type of business you choose to operate (see the earlier section on “Choosing how to set up your business”), you’ll have to fill out the appropriate business forms, and if your state requires service and sales-tax licenses, you’ll have to apply for them. Beyond that, you may want to check with your state government to find out about any requirements to which professionals who work with animal professionals must adhere.

Paying taxes


One downside of working for yourself is that you must pay your own taxes rather than having your employer withhold them for you. So you need to get in touch with an accountant who can explain quarterly tax filings and payments and provide other information about dealing with the IRS.

Now that you’re self-employed, your social security tax (FICA) is twice the amount you paid before. Why is that? Because before you were self-employed, your employer paid the same amount you did. When you become self-employed, you get hit with the entire tax.

Setting Up Shop


You have your training, applied for your business and sales licenses, checked with your accountant and attorney, and now you’re ready to set up shop. What next? Read on!

Finding a workspace


Where you plan to operate your grooming business is the most important decision you need to make as you set up shop. You have a few choices, including in your home, as a standalone shop, or in conjunction with another business?

Working at home alone


Many first-time groomers set up shop right out of their homes, but before you hang out your sign, you need to understand the zoning of your home and how local ordinances affect a home-based business in a residential area. No matter how good of a neighbor you are, some nosy busybody neighbor is going to take an interest in the customers showing up at your doorstep. And if you’re violating any covenants or ordinances, you’re bound to have your homeowners’ association or the county zoning officer show up at your front door.
Technical Stuff
Ordinances and covenants are enacted for specific reasons. The most obvious reason is traffic and congestion. Although you may have only a client or two show up every day, think of what would happen to your street if everyone was running businesses out of their homes. Your quiet, sleepy suburban neighborhood would quickly devolve into a busy thoroughfare. Well, maybe not. But that’s how the zoning commissions and homeowners’ associations see it.
Assuming that you can get around the zoning and covenant problems, working out of your home can be a hassle unless you have a separate shop. Do you have enough parking for customers? What about access for folks with disabilities? Yes, the Americans with Disabilities Act applies to your business, too.

Although working from home can be wonderful, it can also be terribly distracting. Your family and friends can pop in and make demands on the time you’d otherwise be devoting to working on a customer’s dog — you know, making money. Then there’s the TV and the gallon of ice cream in the fridge . . .

And don’t forget about the client who’s late picking up the dog while you’re left waiting with the pooch until the owner shows up. However, by the same token, you can also throw in a load of laundry or start dinner, if a client turns out to be a no show — and believe me that will happen.

If you become successful as a groomer, at some point, you’ll be looking either to expand your shop inside your home or have to find another place to work.

A shop of your own


In most cases, situating business where your homeowners’ association and zoning officers won’t nag you — someplace where it’s allowed — is best. Your kids will just have to make a special trip (or call you) when you have your own shop, and there’s no ice cream in the fridge unless you really want it there.

Another great reason for having a separate shop is for tax purposes. By having a place of business outside of your home, you can deduct all operating expenses and prove to the IRS that you’re truly operating a business — something that’s pretty hard to do working from home.

Where you put your separate shop is important. You need to look for a place that’s in a busy area (like a strip mall) where no other groomers are present. A veterinarian’s or a pet-supply store, on the other hand, is a bonus. Although the areas I mentioned are prime locations, they’re often accompanied by prime costs. The point is you need to be in an area where people can see your business.
Warning!
Be careful about getting a bargain location that’s out of the way and off the beaten path. A place that doesn’t get much traffic can spell disaster for a new business. You can choose to move to a less trafficked site after you’ve established a good client base.

Sharing the load


What if you just don’t have the investment capital for opening your own shop? Believe it or not, you still have options that will allow you to remain self-employed, including:
- A mutual arrangement: Having a standalone business can be costly, so if you don’t have the investment capital to open your own business or rent a shop, try asking a veterinarian, a pet-supply store, or other pet-oriented business whether you can rent space from them to do grooming. Such an arrangement can be mutually beneficial to both parties. You benefit by having a place to do your work and from customers you gain through the regular patronage of the business, and the business benefits from the rent you pay and from being able to provide yet another added service to its customers.
Tip
This type of arrangement is wonderful for a startup groomer, because it provides an instant client base. Anyone who walks into the business is automatically a potential customer for you.
- Contract grooming: Another possibility is freelance work in someone else’s grooming shop. Instead of being a direct employee of the groomer, you work on a contractual basis, meaning the shop owner gets a cut out of what you get paid. Say, for example, that the shop owner takes 20 percent of your earnings. If you charge clients $30 for bathing their dogs, you get $24, and the shop owner gets $6. Just make sure that when you enter this type of arrangement that you have all of details worked out in writing.

On the go: Mobile grooming


Like setting up a grooming shop, mobile grooming is a big investment. You need a van, RV, or SUV that’s been converted to handle grooming. On the low end, a grooming van carries your equipment and maybe a portable tub and water heater. On the high end, your grooming vehicle can be a retrofitted van or RV complete with a grooming tub and all the accoutrements you need. The latter can cost anywhere from $30,000 to $75,000.

The biggest advantage of mobile grooming is that you go where your customers are, which is ideal for people who can’t get out, people who lead busy lives, and people who live in areas where groomers are few and far between. What’s more, you can charge premium prices because of the service factor.
Warning!
Be aware that gasoline prices can severely affect your bottom line. Although other groomers may charge $35 to $50 for a complete grooming session, you may have to price your services from $40 to $70 or more to cover your traveling expenses, including gas. And while you may not have rent or utilities to pay, you may have a big truck finance and insurance payment every month.

Obtaining insurance and bonding


Making sure your new business is properly insured and that you’re adequately bonded are a couple of the first things you need to do before you open your shop. Not only do you need insurance on your property for fire, theft, and other catastrophes, but also for liability. What if Fluffy bites Mrs. Smith? What if she then slips and falls in your shop and breaks a hip? Having enough liability insurance to cover you, your workers, and your customers is vitally important.

Bonding, or the monetary guarantee that you’re a trustworthy individual and won’t steal or damage something important to the client like a pet or other property, is another assurance you may want to obtain. You’ll probably want to consider being bonded, especially if you’re going to other people’s homes to groom their dogs.

Ask an insurance representative for an evaluation of what your business needs in terms of insurance and bonding.
Warning!
Be aware that if you have a home-based business, it won’t be covered by your homeowner’s policy if something happens. Get business insurance. It’s worth it.

Purchasing supplies and equipment


If you’re wondering what to do after you open your business, consider that money probably will be pretty tight, especially after you just laid down a huge chunk of change to rent a building or buy a mobile grooming salon. You’re not going to feel like paying those high retail prices for supplies that you use everyday, so . . .

The good news is that you don’t have to spend a lot. Now that you’re a business, you can buy supplies and equipment wholesale from distributors. Just look for pet-supply distributors in the Yellow Pages, hop online and purchase your supplies from places like PetEdge (www.petedge.com), or look through groomer trade magazines like Groomer-to-Groomer (www.groomertogroomer.com).

There are also grooming seminars and trade shows around the country that offer hands-on demos and display every imaginable piece of grooming equipment known or sold to professional groomers. You can ask vendors and company reps all the questions you want. Plus the prices are reasonable. One place to find show listings is at the GroomTeam USA Web site (GroomTeamUSA.com).

You should probably buy the best equipment and supplies you can afford now to avoid problems in the future. But high cost doesn’t always equal high quality. Shop around!
Warning!
When mail-ordering supplies either from catalogs or off the Internet, be careful. The savings you get on the price may be eaten up by shipping costs. Likewise, be sure that the company you’re buying from is reputable.
Tip
You can buy your business supplies at places like Office Depot, Office Max and other big box stores that now cater to businesses. Take a look at Costco and Sam’s Club, too. Although you won’t find many grooming supplies there, you can find other essentials like cleaners, mops, and containers at cheaper prices than you’d normally buy them.

Getting the word out: Marketing


In the business of dog grooming, marketing is everything. Your customers won’t be your customers unless they can find you.

Word-of-mouth is the best kind of marketing to which any business can aspire, but until you actually attract customers who can rave about your work, you’re pretty much stuck with marketing yourself.

An excellent book to consider when you’re looking for extra help with promoting your new business is Small Business Marketing For Dummies by Barbara Schenck (Wiley). Another series worth looking into is the Guerilla Marketing series by Jay Conrad Levinson (Houghton Mifflin).

The sections that follow look at some of the ways that you can attract customers.
Tip
No matter which advertising strategy you decide to use, always ask your newfound customers how they heard about you and your business. In fact, you need to keep a log of how successful your marketing strategy has been. After a few months, you’ll begin to see a pattern that tells you what’s working and what isn’t.

‘Let your fingers do the walking’


Yes, the Yellow Pages are expensive, but where’s the first place you turn to when you look for something — anything? If I’m looking for a specific business (especially something that’s local), I either reach for the Yellow Pages or check DexOnline.com (dexonline.com), which is an online type of Yellow Pages. Anymore, it’s almost as if I’ve been programmed to use these tools.

I bet you do that, too. The ubiquitous Yellow Pages have been part of society for a long time. It’s a marketing tool, albeit an expensive one to advertise in. If you can at least get your business listed in the Yellow Pages under pet groomers and afford to buy a small box ad, many people will look at it. Having an ad in the Yellow Pages also makes you look more established than just someone with a single line.

Placing ads in local newspapers and circulars


Another way to attract attention is to place ads in local newspapers and circulars. Doing so has pluses and minuses that you need to consider. On one hand, your ad reaches the number of people that make up the publication’s circulation, but on the other hand, whether you reach the right customers is debatable. Sure, the circular says it reaches 55,000 homes, but how many people actually open it up and read your ad as opposed to just tossing it away as a bit of junk mail? And, for that matter, how many people have pets who need grooming.

Other than the cost, there’s no real harm in trying one or more of these ads. Some local newspapers are read voraciously by consumers. Others are simply ignored. In the town where I live, people always look at freebie ads in a newspaper format. If you want to find a local business, that’s where you look.

Direct-mail advertising


Direct mail probably is the least effective form of advertising — somewhere between 0.5 percent to 2 percent of business is generated by direct-mail marketing. It’s also somewhat costly — printing, postage, and mailing can amount to quite a sum. So if you mail your ad to 5,000 households, the best you can expect is 25 to 100 inquires. Obviously, the more households to which you send direct mail, the more customers you’re likely to snag — but watch that postage meter.

Internet advertising


In this day and age, businesses without Web sites are left in the dust. Posting a Web page or at least a personalized URL is dirt cheap. In fact, if you have access to the Internet, your Internet service provider (ISP) may already provide a free Web page for you.

Having a Web site is a great way to attract customers and to announce coupons and specials. If you have a flair for writing articles and providing information (or you know someone else who does), you can direct your customers to read this free information (known as content). If they enjoy it, they’ll pass along the information and links to your Web site to their friends. It’s an easy way to get customers.

You can also create e-mail lists of your current customers, so you can keep in touch with them and let them know about current promotions. Plenty of e-mail list services can assist you. Yahoo! Groups (www.groups.yahoo.com) provide free LISTSERVs, that is list services that provide e-mail groups.
Warning!
Never send out unsolicited advertising e-mail (Spam) hoping to attract clients. Not only will you tick off your potential clients by spamming them, you’re also likely to be marked as a spammer, which may cause you to lose your Web site and e-mail privileges if it’s reported to your ISP.

Posting flyers


Another way to attract attention to your new grooming business is to print flyers and post them on bulletin boards at pet-related businesses and grocery stores. Some places to consider might be vet offices, boarding kennels, training facilities, and anywhere dog owners might frequent.

Satisfying Your First Customers


Your first customers are often your most special customers. They’re the folks who took a chance to hire you to take care of their pups, so you need to start making a good first impression with them right off the bat.

Exhibiting professionalism


Your sense of professionalism is the first thing that impresses new clients, so make sure it’s well honed by:
  • Answering the phone in a professional manner
  • Setting up a schedule and reminding clients of their dogs’ appointments
  • Always treating clients courteously
Good business practices like these go a long way toward making new clients feel more comfortable about taking a chance with a new groomer — someone who looks and acts professionally. Keeping your shop clean and your attitude upbeat and courteous will make all the difference in the world.
Tip
When I was growing up, kids were told to address adults either by Mr. and Mrs. or Ms. Sadly, many people don’t extend that courtesy anymore. If you want to amaze people with your politeness, try addressing Connie Smith as Ms. Smith, rather than Connie, for example. You’ll be surprised at how they react to you.
You’ve probably heard the adage that “the customer is always right.” For the most part, that’s true. If your customers aren’t happy, they’ll be sure to tell the people they know just how unhappy they are, and that will hurt your reputation. Always try to fix a problem, even if it wasn’t your fault.
Remember
You’re in a service position. Although you shouldn’t necessarily be a doormat, you also shouldn’t be looking to argue with your customers. If you have an angry customer, your attitude never should be one of “get off my back.” Instead, your attitude needs to be one of “How can I fix this?”

Dealing with difficult clients/difficult dogs


At some point, you’re going to encounter difficult clients and difficult dogs. It’s inevitable; there’s no way around it.
Remember
It is your right to say no to anyone with a difficult dog. Getting bit isn’t worth the amount you’re going to make from this customer.
Unless the dog truly is aggressive, moving slowly, talking or singing to him nicely, or giving him treats should calm his fears. If you fear that a dog may bite, using a muzzle may be an option. But be aware that doing so does look bad in front of other clients, so you may want to use the muzzle away from where other clients can see. Remember that you should never leave a muzzle on a dog any longer than you absolutely have to.

More often, a difficult dog is one that hasn’t been groomed for a long time and probably is a terrible mess. When that’s the case, if the dog is so matted that you can’t do anything, talk to the owner and explain that the best thing to do may be to shave the mats off and start working to maintain a good coat as it grows back in. Leave that decision, however, to the owner.

Unlike the difficult dog, the difficult client is hard to deal with. Be diplomatic and polite with these clients. The more professional you can be, the better.

You can always refuse to work on a difficult dog or with a difficult client. In most cases, that refusal means some revenue lost. But if you can, resolving those problems always is better.

Some tips to keep customers coming back


You’ve just started your shop. Congratulations! But now you need to know how to keep happy clients coming back again and again. Here are some suggestions:
- Greet both the customers and their dogs by their names.
- Have a bowl of biscuits ready as treats.
- Offer a referral bonus. Give clients who help you sign someone else up a discount. Take a certain percentage off their dog’s next grooming session.
- Offer a discount near certain holidays.
- Offer a frequent groomer card (for example, with ten full grooms, you give the client something free).
- Be sure to know if your client’s dog is a he or she. Owners hate it when you get it wrong!
- Make your clients and their dogs more comfortable while they’re waiting, especially if the dog is in a crate — perhaps provide blankets to nap on and a toy.
- Make the waiting areas inviting. For example, provide free coffee.
- Keep grooming areas clean.
- Always return phone calls in a timely manner.
- Send thank-you cards to new customers.
by Margaret H.Bonham